PPU brass ???

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Buck13

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I was reloading my Starline 10 mm brass, and while seating bullets, one Nosler 150 gr JHP just slid all the way down to the powder charge from finger pressure as I centered it on the case! Turns out that was one of a couple of PPU 10 mm Lite cases that I shot through a rental gun before I bought my pistol, which had landed in my gun case after ejecting. I saved them to make powder dippers from, and hadn't realized any got in with my Starline brass.

It came apart with one little tap in the bullet puller, of course. The bullet measured right alongside the others with my calipers. This case should have been through sizing along with the others, otherwise it would not have been decapped for priming. (It did contain a new primer.) How can the case neck be so loose? :confused:
 
I've never had a problem with PPU brass, but I can't speak for 10mm. I honestly didn't know they made brass for this cartridge. I have loaded 9mm, 223 and 25-06 PPU and found it to be good quality. It does run on the thick side in the previously mentioned cartridges.

I think that just about every manufacturer has a cartridge or two that is their weak area, or just run sub par batches every now and then. 10mm may be one of PPUs. I can't say that about Starline however, everything from them has been pretty much flawless.
 
My 243 Savage Edge:
When I fire a PPU cartridge it comes out the same size that it went in.
When I fire any other Mfr's cartridge it comes out with a bulge just above the web.
I have never used a PPU pistol cartridge.
 
Happens here and there. I have had the same happen with some 45ACP and 38 special cases.

Your sizing dies are set up for average cases. If it were one-die-fits-all, you would be overworking most of your brass and getting really bad coke-bottles, just so the odd, thinner case would work.
 
I had the same experience with some thrice-fired PPU 10mm brass. Whole thread on that topic here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=689681&highlight=loss+of+neck+tension+10mm

You definitely have to watch neck tension on PPU 10mm. I haven't figured out a way to predict which cases will or will not have tension after loading, so I've got about 1k PPU brass sidelined. If you can figure out what to measure and predict which cases will be sloppy loose and which ones will stay tight, let me know!
 
Happens here and there. I have had the same happen with some 45ACP and 38 special cases.

Agreed. But it has happened with dozens and dozens of PPU 10mm for me. Which is a shame, because I've got a lot of it.
 
Use PPU all the time in rifle, mainly 308 and 6.5x55, the 308 is a little stiff resizing but very good brass, have used the 6.5x55 stuff a bunch of times, easily more then any other brass in any caliber and the primers still seat just fine, won't even take a shine anymore but shoots fantastic.
 
I haven't figured out a way to predict which cases will or will not have tension after loading, so I've got about 1k PPU brass sidelined. If you can figure out what to measure and predict which cases will be sloppy loose and which ones will stay tight, let me know!
If it's worth your time, use a single stage press. While expanding/flaring the case, note which ones have little to no drag/resistance. Scrap those cases. This is very obvious and easy to determine, paying just a little bit of attention. I can easily tell the difference between, say, 45ACP cases that are no good, intermediate cases (mostly R-P/S&B in 45ACP), and cases with good tension. I never sort my brass by headstamp or by number of firings, anymore. While expanding/flaring, they sort themselves out; and with higher accuracy. Each successive round of reloading, a few more cases might go from borderline to bad.

Just cuz most of the PPU are bad, and most of your other brass are good, doesn't make sorting them by headstamp the final word. Sort while flaring, you'll find all the bad ones, no matter the headstamp. And you'll get some good reloads out of the PPU brass that you might have missed out on. You will rarely need to do a press test, and even more rarely need to use a bullet puller. Maybe only once or twice while learning.

I picked up a bunch of weird headstamp 223's recently. A near complete circle around the entire casehead, broken only in one spot by a little symbol (not a star/Starline). It seems they have the same deal as your PPU brass. A heck a lot of 'em had no neck tension off the bat. To the scrap bin. Some of 'em passed QC the first go, albeit mostly as "borderline." Surely as rain, a few more get weeded out on each subsequent reloading session during the expanding phase. I'm down to one or two. It doesn't bother me to know they're in the lineup. If they're good, they're good. Doesn't matter to me the headstamp or for how many more firings they'll last. I catch the bad ones when they're actually bad, even if the headstamp were to be LC/Norma/Lapua, whatever. The label doesn't give a case a free pass.

I scrapped a bunch of once-fired, still-crimped LC, complete with annealing marks, in fact. They all happened to have a 72 year stamp. I had that brass stored away for over a year, thinking it was gold. But the expander ball doesn't lie. The ammo factory can swap different sizing dies to accomodate large batches of "deviant" brass. Most reloaders don't have the time or inclination to bother with that, esp since you'd then have to sort out your brass each time you sized it.

If you are an obsessive headstamp sorter, then you might look into getting a custom sizing die, undersized by a mic or three in the neck area for rifle brass. (Or an adjustable neck sizing die.) But I don't think that would be as valid an idea for pistol brass, cuz you'd overwork the brass near the web. I suppose you could size in two stages, using the smaller die to only size the first half inch of the case mouth.
 
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I use PPU brass almost exclusively for 7mm-08. Never had a problem with any step of the reloading process.
 
If it's worth your time, use a single stage press. While expanding/flaring the case, note which ones have little to no drag/resistance. Scrap those cases.

Thanks. Lots of good ideas in your post, GLOOB. I'm pretty tied to my turret-based approach to reloading pistol rounds. I expand and charge with powder in a single step, so the spring of the thrower is always involved. I can't really tell the difference until the bullet seating step, at which point the no-tension cases provide no discernable resistance. Of course, by that point, everything is loaded, and I've got to use the impact puller to save the bullet and powder.

I guess I could load them as I do rifle rounds and charge them on a block. If I ever run out of my OTHER 10mm brass, I may resort to that.
 
I run in to that experience with Federal 9mm cases. I separate my brass to maintain consistency but somehow I picked up a box of fired Fed cases and it got into my Win brass. All is great with the Win brass but every single one of the reloaded Fed brass had extremely loose bullets. So loose a finger push set the bullet back to the powder.

I tried other brass and find that Fed is the only one that does this to me. However, I still keep my brass separated.

I'm confident I can set my dies for success with Fed brass and will do so if I ever need to load the Fed brass. Until then I simply keep using my Win brass since I have so much of it.

Andy
 
Last night I decapped (with a Lee universal) a small batch of range pickup .38SPL brass which was mostly PPU. All the PPU's primers were quite tight, and several of them had slightly off-center flashholes, which meant I had to be careful to avoid bending my decapping pin. It would have been very difficult to detect this flaw in the PPU cases just by looking.

After tumbling them, I ran them through an RCBS resizing die with the decapping pin in place, and in no instance did the pin fail to cleanly pass through the flashhole. What I gather from this is that while those flashholes were off a tiny bit, none were off enough to affect normal sizing/decapping (in which the die forces exact centering of the case).

It seems that when using a universal decapper the shellholder alone may not ensure the cases are exactly centered. Close enough to cleanly decap in most cases, but not all.

I will segregate the PPU 38SPL brass and ensure that it gets resized in the normal manner.
 
I've also had problems decapping the PPU brass in 9mm. Either the primer opening is too small for the decapping pin, too tightly seated, or it's slightly off center, because it causes the decapping pin to push up, like trying to decap a Berdan-primed case. I've been sorting out all the PPU 9mm from my range pickup brass and discarding it, to keep from having to waste time resetting the decapping pin when processing batches of brass.
 
I guess I could load them as I do rifle rounds and charge them on a block. If I ever run out of my OTHER 10mm brass, I may resort to that.
.. or if you have a 4 hole turret, you can buy a Lyman M die for (superior) expanding/flaring in the second hole. Charge in the third hole. Seat and crimp in the fourth hole.
 
Yeah, I guess that's feasible. I've gotten pretty used to the Lee Factory Crimp Die in station 4, though. I know some here pooh-pooh it, but it has worked well for me.

I used to wonder what those 6- or 7-station turrets were for, but I'm starting to see the potential utility of those.
 
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