Hi, thanks for all the responses.
I'm not looking to buy anything right now, just learn to use what I have.
which is:
1. Savage LRP #12 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Had the stock bedded and trigger work done.
2. Leupold Vari X III 6.5 x 20x E.F.R. with a 2X entender. 40mm. Rear (second) focal plane, cross hair, turret MOA
3. bought it when my son-in-law retired to try rifle (other than handgun & clays)
4. Took a Bench Rest class 18 months ago and learned some stuff, the 2nd day was all the students shooting at 100 yards and i actually came in first in BR Production class. 100 yards. Took a long range class (plates up to 750 yards and i was hitting everything but the instructor was doing the scope adjustments for me.
5. I was a competitive pistol shooter for years and got pretty good. My breathing and trigger control are very good.
6. I will be shooting primarily at 100 & 300 yards (live in New Jersey so short ranges till i retire and leave NJ)
7. I plan to shoot monthly BR competitions which are 100 yards and shooting further whenever i can.
Thanks
That helps answer some questions
So what I infer from that response is what you really want is to learn how make your own corrections. I.E. : to dial your scope and make adjustments for elevation, windage, Bdc etc,
So here's a couple notes that you will also find in some of those videos I mentioned.
Let's get the hardest out in the open first: Windage.
This takes the most practice and experience to get right. Again, there are many good videos on this by Ryan Cleckner and others, but I'll touch the basics for you.
It's called "windage" for obvious reasons: the wind.
At 100yds, this is rarely gonna be a concern for a 6.5cm. Your talking about 1/2" of drift for a 10mph wind.
At longer ranges, it would be simple if the wind was steady and didn't change directions, but that is rare.
I was at my club's 600yd range recently. The flag at the bench was out in front about half flag, meaning wind was from behind and roughly 4mph. The 200yd flag was almost limp, 400yd flag was right to left about half, and the flag at 600 was left to right and almost straight out. So what does all that mean for your scope adjustment? Thats where the practice comes in. One of those flags is having the more effect on your bullet. Figuring out which one is the trick, but generally, the flags further away from you are the better indicators. Why?
Because , the further away your bullet gets, the slower it is going, thus it is exposed to the winds near the target for a longer time than the wind at your muzzle. So, in a case like I mentioned, If using the an app, I would estimate the wind at target, subtract a little bit to account for the opposing wind at 400, and dial that in and see where it gets me. At 600yds, depending on the bullet used, a 10mph wind is gonna drift the poi of 6.5 Creedmoor about 2 feet. At 600yds 1 moa is about 6.25". So that means I would make about 4moa adjustment.
For most scopes with moa turrets, that means I would need about 16 clicks.
Elevation and BDC adjustments are a bit easier to deal with. BDC for any bullet is easy to find or figure out, but off the top of my head, depending on the bullet, 6.5cm is gonna drop about 7ft at 600yds.
Thats about 14moa , so about 56 clicks....but...some scopes don't have that much adjustment. I think your scope has 60moa of total adjustment, that's only 30up or 30down, assuming your scope is mechanically zeroed. So you might be able to dial that in. Move out to 1000yds and you probably don't have enough adjustment either. That's where 20moa rails come in.