45Frank
Member
I clean both my primer pocket and the hole. Is there a tool that does both in one step? I have a few different tools used for the pocket but my tool for cleaning the hole works from the inside the case.
Primer pocket & primer hole?
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Smokey Joe
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Cleaning primer pocket & flash hole...
45 Frank--You clean both of these?? For what cartridge? IMHO, for most applications, neither is necessary.
But, to each his own. If you have the time, have at it if it makes you happy...
45 Frank--You clean both of these?? For what cartridge? IMHO, for most applications, neither is necessary.
But, to each his own. If you have the time, have at it if it makes you happy...
Primer pocket? What is this you speak of?
I do not know of a tool that does both.
Some of the electronic ones have a attachment for both which would speed things up if you are into doing this.
Something like this:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/21...ase-prep-center-115-volt?cm_vc=ProductFinding
I do not know of a tool that does both.
Some of the electronic ones have a attachment for both which would speed things up if you are into doing this.
Something like this:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/21...ase-prep-center-115-volt?cm_vc=ProductFinding
As long as the flash hole is open, there is no need to "clean" it. Carbon will only build up so much, plus you don't want to enlarge them over time from using a tool on them. They make a flash hole uniformer, but over use would ruin the flash holes. It's a one time deal. A tee tiny round brush would work if you just really want to clean them. Use a primer pocket cleaner or uniformer and don't worry about the flash holes.
If he had the flash hole gage I was referring to he would know the diameter of the flash hole and to use it media stuck in the flash hole must be removed first.
To be effective the diameter of the flash hole must be measured first before firing.
F. Guffey
I would think a cheap stainless steel round cartridge brush would work. trim the end to a point and jam it in there, It would clean the hole and also the pocket. After a few uses it would form a taper on the end.
Maybe a used bore brush of whatever caliber would fit.
Maybe a used bore brush of whatever caliber would fit.
gamestalker
member
I use the tip of the Lee case length gauge to knock the carbon out of the pockets, but other than that I don't worry about spic and span pockets. I just give it a whirl around the inside of the pocket, nothing special. I do that because I always load full pressure loads, leaking primers make a mess of a bolt or breach face.
But I do make sure the flash holes are cleared of media blockage, but I don't bother cleaning them per say.
GS
But I do make sure the flash holes are cleared of media blockage, but I don't bother cleaning them per say.
GS
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I can't think of a good reason to clean flash holes.
If a 20,000 PSI blast of white hot gas blowing through it when the primer fires don't clean it out?
I just don't know what to tell ya!
OCD bench-rest shooter 'debur' flash holes on new cases one time.
But I have never before heard of anyone 'cleaning ' them every firing.
They are about as self -cleaning as it gets when the primer goes off!!
rc
If a 20,000 PSI blast of white hot gas blowing through it when the primer fires don't clean it out?
I just don't know what to tell ya!
OCD bench-rest shooter 'debur' flash holes on new cases one time.
But I have never before heard of anyone 'cleaning ' them every firing.
They are about as self -cleaning as it gets when the primer goes off!!
rc
I knock down the "burr" once on a flash hole on the inside, then use the primer pocket uniform tool once then reload. It adds to the reload experience, but I don't mind and my primers fit nice and square FWIW.
I never seen a 2-fer.
I never seen a 2-fer.
OP
OP
45Frank
Member
It was just a convenience thing is all.
I do run the primer pocket tool around the hole because of the media and carbon, just always did it. Once in a while the media gets stuck in the hole and I just always had the pocket hole tool and thought there was an all in one.
Figure I have wasted a lot of time over the years. Oh well.
Thanks all for the feedback.
I do run the primer pocket tool around the hole because of the media and carbon, just always did it. Once in a while the media gets stuck in the hole and I just always had the pocket hole tool and thought there was an all in one.
Figure I have wasted a lot of time over the years. Oh well.
Thanks all for the feedback.
Yep, uniform them and remove any burrs on the inside, then never clean them again. Yea, if you tumble in corncob it is always a good idea to knock out any corn cob, but again, I wouldn't sweat it too bad, because it can't stand the force of the primer going off. Yes, in accuracy minded loads I make sure there is no corncob there.
Consistency is good, and as long as we are not gradually opening up the flash hole with our cleaning method, it won't hurt a thing.
Frank, The flash hole can be used to determine the beginning of pressure signs. I know, primers the number one indicator. Then? We jump to the pressure test equipment. I don't, I have flash hole gages. All that is required is measure the diameter of the flash hole first.
When testing a receiver I expect the case head to increase in diameter, I expect the case head thickness to shorten from the cup above the web to the case head and I expect the primer pocket to increase in diameter also.
Back to the flash hole, the flash hole does not have an exemption, if the case head expands, if the case head thickness shortens and the primer primer pocket increases in diameter the flash hole also increases in diameter. For me it is easier to measure, and 'no' an increase in the diameter of the flash hole does not result in case failure.
There are a few reloaders that drill the flash holes to a uniform diameter.
F. Guffey
moxie
Member
If you clean the brass before you decap, any residual media will get knocked out by the decap pin. Any residual carbon simply is not a problem. Leave it.
Carbon buildup is a problem if you have a "tuned" gun that requires fully seated primers. I don't clean the pockets every time I reload but once the crud has built up it needs to be removed if you want to seat the primer to the bottom of the pocket. If your gun has stock springs it is not really necessary. I have never cleaned the flash hole - as RC said the primer flash will go right through.
I've shot several .308 Win and 30 caliber belted magnum cases with no primer pocket nor flash hole cleaning and uniforming whatsoever as well as those fully uniformed and deburred. Testing them at 600 and 1000 yards, I saw no difference in accuracy as both produced 1/2 MOA or so 15 to 20 shot test groups.
Seat primers fully into their pocket so they bottom out so their pellet is detonated uniformly from shot to shot. Doesn't matter if their depth below flush with the case head varies a thousandth or two.
After tumbling/vibrating deprimed fired cases, they're checked for debris in their flash holes that's easily pushed out with a toothpick.
Seat primers fully into their pocket so they bottom out so their pellet is detonated uniformly from shot to shot. Doesn't matter if their depth below flush with the case head varies a thousandth or two.
After tumbling/vibrating deprimed fired cases, they're checked for debris in their flash holes that's easily pushed out with a toothpick.
A hall of fame benchrester told a group of us once, "If your primers go bang, you don't have a problem".
I always cleaned the primer pocket with my uniformer, but never "cleaned" flash holes. Just made sure they were clear.
I used to agonize about seating primers just exactly so in my Benchrest reloads, but finally realized I was being way to OCD about it.
Seat them to the bottom of the primer pocket so they will detonate properly and your good to go.
I always cleaned the primer pocket with my uniformer, but never "cleaned" flash holes. Just made sure they were clear.
I used to agonize about seating primers just exactly so in my Benchrest reloads, but finally realized I was being way to OCD about it.
Seat them to the bottom of the primer pocket so they will detonate properly and your good to go.
Some Reloaders/Handloaders tend to be a anal or OCD group. What ever you do if you are enjoying it or feel it makes better ammo, than go for it.
I am both anal and ocd but never clean primer pockets or flash holes,(I tried I really did but there is nothing there to clean out?) I tumble before depriming so no issue there. As rc said the blast will clean most anything out. I clean my brass but not surgically clean. I also do not clean the gas tube in my AR, same principle, the gas pressure does it, stand more of a chance of sticking a pipe cleaner,
I am not winning medals or money so it doesn't matter as long as it goes bang.
I am both anal and ocd but never clean primer pockets or flash holes,(I tried I really did but there is nothing there to clean out?) I tumble before depriming so no issue there. As rc said the blast will clean most anything out. I clean my brass but not surgically clean. I also do not clean the gas tube in my AR, same principle, the gas pressure does it, stand more of a chance of sticking a pipe cleaner,
I am not winning medals or money so it doesn't matter as long as it goes bang.
Primers do have two enemies; weak firing pin springs and pin tips that don't dent them enough. Both cause reduced and irregular detonation that causes vertical shot stringing due to increased muzzle velocity spread as well as lower average.
Barely, if ever, noticed at short range.
Ensure pin's stick out past bolt face at .060" to .065" (for large rifle primers) and spring's at factory specs or 10% greater.
Barely, if ever, noticed at short range.
Ensure pin's stick out past bolt face at .060" to .065" (for large rifle primers) and spring's at factory specs or 10% greater.
Average Joe
Member
In over 30 years of reloading pistol cartridges, I have never cleaned a primer pocket or flash hole.
On practice day before a Palma match, someone had an extra 1 MOA vertical shot stringing with his ammo at 1000 yards. He came over to a bunch of us watching then asked if anyone had a new 26 lb. Win 70 firing pin spring. I spoke up as I went to my tool box, got one then gave it to him.
He won the next day's match. He asked me if I wanted it back. I said: no, keep it. But I'd take his single-shot pre-'64 Win 70 action instead (no magazine cutout; one of only 20 made). He laughed but I let him keep the spring.
He won the next day's match. He asked me if I wanted it back. I said: no, keep it. But I'd take his single-shot pre-'64 Win 70 action instead (no magazine cutout; one of only 20 made). He laughed but I let him keep the spring.
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JWH321
Member
The pin that pops the spent primer out of the case does an excellent job of making sure that the primer flash hole is free of obstructions.
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