Primers in or out?

I wet tumble.
Pistol brass
My range has nasty 60-80 grit dirt so I do quick say 1/2 hour wet tumble primers in.
Then I inspect the brass get rid on any that need to be gotten rid of :9mm brass with the ledge:cuss:, any non boxer primed -very few of these but every now and then 1 shows up- anything that has splits or I don't like for some other reason)
the I resize/deprime, and flare the necks then run about a 1 hour pass.
 
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When I have a bucket of fired brass, the first thing I do is to inspect it and cull any obvious defects. I then decap it and wash it in something like Lemishine. After that, the brass is boxed up and awaits it's next loading.
 
In.

I tried with primers out but ended up going through a couple of hundred .38 Special rounds cleaning media out of primer holes. That taught me…
 
Out. Before wet tumble. Seems to help with drying faster, but mainly I just want it all clean.
 
I've tried it both ways while dry tumbling. Out doesn't get the primer pockets clean, and sometimes media gets stuck in the flash holes. So In for me.

chris
 
It's generally a matter of whether the brass requires a case lube to resize.

For pistol brass (doesn't require case lube), wet tumble with primers in, dry, load on a progressive press.

For rifle brass (requires case lube), wet tumble with primers in, dry, deprime/resize/trim, wet tumble again with primers out to remove case lube, dry, load.
 
I only full length re-size which will de-prime while resizing. If I were to re-size and de-prime prior to tumbling, I would be introducing dirt and sand to the re-sizing die which seems to me bass-ackwards. Why potentially damage a sizing die with grit? So the answer is "IN". You can also get media stuck in the flash hole when primers are out which can create another problem. I tried it once thinking I would help clean the primer pockets or the inside case which didn't ever work either.
 
Dry "tumble"; cobb or walnut with Tbsp of NuFinish, Tbsp paint thinner, and used dryer sheet.

Primer in...size and decap will remove any primer hole block. The only "need" for cleaning the flash hole is to remove any build up that would cause the primer to seat crooked or not below flush. Any comm'l primer pocket cleaner tool will due OR any small 3" flat blade screwdriver with a half twist will work.

I use a single stage (40 yrs) and handle each case and inspect at size/deprime, clean primer pocket, seat new primer, powder drop, bullet seat, and yes crimp separately.

No, it only takes 10 sec to inspect and clean the pocket and since I already have it in hand to inspect it's nothing.

Once powder goes in, the case doesn't leave my left hand until a bullet closes the case.

Your need for speed may cause your mileage to very....
 
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