problem with new Ruger Mini-14

[socalbeachbum]

I have a new SS Mini-14, recent manufacture and with only 100 rounds through it, I'm wondering if

there should be failures to eject? I've tried 4 or 5 brands of new factory ammo, good stuff, and the

problem happened 4 or 5 times while going through 100 rounds. Should I just clean it well and try

again?

 

[hq]

Clean it. Properly. Minis are generally speaking very reliable by design and failures are rare. Depending on gas bushing size the ejection is somewhere between brisk and violent. If the problem persists, checking the ejector/extractor is a good idea, as is inspecting the chamber and making sure action moves freely without binding.

You haven't installed aftermarket parts like a smaller gas bushing or recoil buffer, have you?

 

[DLrocket89]

Sounds like there's something more wrong than that. I have a stainless Mini Thirty, new production (2015?). I got it home, did a field strip and light oiling, and then ran 500 rounds through it with no maintenance (cleaning, oil, anything) and it was 100%. It was bone dry by the end and didn't hiccup at all.

Gas block not lined up right? I'd get in touch with Ruger, they've always been good with me for customer service.

 

[Garandimal]

Need more info.

Is the extractor slipping off the case, bolt not cycling fully, brass stove-piping...?

My 582-series is PT equipment, what w/ the hikin' required to shag brass due to aggressive ejection.




GR

 

[Tiro Finale]

I'd try cleaning it first, if for no reason other than to rule out the rifle being dirty or dry as the cause.

In general, though, Mini-14s don't require much cleaning or maintenance, and eject rather briskly (mine launches brass over 20 feet on average).

 

[briansmithwins]

If cleaning and lube don't cure it, you may have a problem like I did.

I have a 500 series Mini-14 that's been back to Ruger 2x to fix FTEject. Out of the box it would have FTEj multiple times in 10 rounds. The second time (still had FTEj, just less frequently than before) they replaced the bolt and the ejector and did a rather nice trigger job.

I suspect that the root cause was tolerance stacking. The ejector, bolt, and receiver can all be in spec but when used together they experience FTEj. Pretty much impossible to fix unless given a lot of spare parts to sort though to find the combination that plays well together.

BSW

 

[zaitcev]

Depending on gas bushing size the ejection is somewhere between brisk and violent.

Wait, what? There are several sizes for the gas bushing now? I have a 181-series that's clearly undergassed and cleaning does not help, so I was wondering if I could swap the gas block or other components.

 

[DLrocket89]

There are companies (accuracy systems or something) that sell variable gas blocks and new gas block bushings of various sizes.

EDIT: http://www.mini14adjustablegasblock.com/

My Mini Thirty will eject anything I run through it. Dowloaded all the way to 1400 fps on a 123 gn and it was still sending the brass 15 feet.

 

[socalbeachbum]

I would classify it as stovepiping, even though the empty case is angled off to the right side. It is as if it began to eject and was caught by the bolt moving forward before it could clear. I did run a few patches through the bore before firing but that was it. I'll break it down completely tonight and give it a very through cleaning. This is my third mini-14 and I do not remember a single malfunction on either of my 2 older ones. No mods, right out of the box using the factory provided 5 round mag. 3 of the times it happened on the first round. I did not close the bolt slowly, it jerked it back, let go, and let it slam forward.

 

[socalbeachbum]

While asking my local gun dealer about this today I learned about the soon to be released Ruger PC Carbine. And so..... I ordered one

 

[JohnB-40]

I had the same problem on my 5816. Call Ruger and they will send a Fedex shipping label to have the rifle sent back to NH. Fast turn a round....So far all good with repair. New bolt and ejector fitted

 

[socalbeachbum]

wow John, really? Mine is a 5805 just a few weeks old. I'll call Ruger

 

[MistWolf]

Tolerance stacking that leads to malfunctioning is due to poor engineering.

Beachbum, do a lock back check to see if your rifle is short stroking.

Stove piping is caused by extraction or ejection issues.

 

[socalbeachbum]

MistWolf, I am a dummy as to your suggestion. Lockback check? How can I check for short stroking?

 

[kwg020]

Wait, what? There are several sizes for the gas bushing now? I have a 180-series that's clearly undergassed and cleaning does not help, so I was wondering if I could swap the gas block or other components.

There are factory gas bushings and there are after market bushings. It will require you to take the gas block apart to determine what you have. You can get more information from perfect union.com

http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/ruger-mini-14-mini-30/

They are the internet experts on the Mini 14. If they can't help you, Ruger can. If your Mini 14 is as the factory sent it out, you can always return it for service. Any modifications you make or anything you add will be removed.
kwg

 

[hq]

There are factory gas bushings and there are after market bushings. It will require you to take the gas block apart to determine what you have.

Also make sure that you have an inch-lb torque wrench with a proper (long) bit and feeler gauges at hand when you take it apart. Minis are extra sensitive to gas block being torqued correctly - which they always aren't even from the factory - and this alone can make a full 1½" difference in accuracy at 100yd, not to mention affect its tendency to string with hot barrel.

Newer 580-series Minis are less sensitive to it than older 180:s but it's still something you want to keep in mind every time the gas block comes off.

 

[MistWolf]

Lockback check? How can I check for short stroking?

The lockback check is simple to perform.
-Insert empty magazine into the magwell. Pull back charging handle and make sure the mag will lock back the bolt.
-Remove the empty magazine from the rifle and load one round.
-Reinsert the magazine and load rifle.
-Fire the rifle.

The bolt should lock back. If it does not, it's short stroking. The lock back check is the first step you should take when trouble shooting any self loading rifle and will often save you time and trouble. Of course, it won't work with such rifles as the AK.

I'm uncertain what type of ejector the Ruger Mini uses. If the ejector is the plunger type like the AR uses, the empty will be ejected as soon as the case mouth clears the action, long before the bolt travels far enough to be able to pick up a fresh round from the magazine. As long as bolt travel is far enough to pull the case clear of the action, short stroking has little affect on ejection. A rifle with plunger ejector will stove pipe if there is a problem with the ejector itself. Sometimes it will be due to weak extraction.

If the Ruger uses a fixed position ejector like a Mauser 98 or a FAL, then the case won't be ejected until the bolt travels far enough for the case to hit the ejector. With a fixed ejector, the bolt also has to travel with enough velocity to ensure positive ejection. Short stroking will have a direct affect on ejection by causing weak ejection. One symptom of weak ejection with a fixed ejector is stove piping.

Stove piping in a self loading rifle with a plunger ejector is usually caused by a weak ejector spring or a worn ejector plunger. Sometimes it's caused by the extractor.

Stove piping in a self loading rifle with a fixed ejector can have several root causes. If the ejector pivots, it could have a weak spring or gunk hindering it's movement. The ejector face could be worn or broken and is now too short. Bolt speed could be too slow, either from fouling or short stroking and the case isn't hitting the ejector with enough force for positive ejection.

When trouble shooting your problem, keep in mind that the malfunction can have more than one root cause. For example, a stove pipe with a plunger ejector could be caused by a problem with the extractor as well as the ejector. With the fixed ejector, the problem could be the ejector, extractor or bolt speed or any combination of the three.

 

[LoonWulf]

The lockback check is simple to perform.
-Insert empty magazine into the magwell. Pull back charging handle and make sure the mag will lock back the bolt.
-Remove the empty magazine from the rifle and load one round.
-Reinsert the magazine and load rifle.
-Fire the rifle.

The bolt should lock back. If it does not, it's short stroking. The lock back check is the first step you should take when trouble shooting any self loading rifle and will often save you time and trouble. Of course, it won't work with such rifles as the AK.

I'm uncertain what type of ejector the Ruger Mini uses. If the ejector is the plunger type like the AR uses, the empty will be ejected as soon as the case mouth clears the action, long before the bolt travels far enough to be able to pick up a fresh round from the magazine. As long as bolt travel is far enough to pull the case clear of the action, short stroking has little affect on ejection. A rifle with plunger ejector will stove pipe if there is a problem with the ejector itself. Sometimes it will be due to weak extraction.

If the Ruger uses a fixed position ejector like a Mauser 98 or a FAL, then the case won't be ejected until the bolt travels far enough for the case to hit the ejector. With a fixed ejector, the bolt also has to travel with enough velocity to ensure positive ejection. Short stroking will have a direct affect on ejection by causing weak ejection. One symptom of weak ejection with a fixed ejector is stove piping.

Stove piping in a self loading rifle with a plunger ejector is usually caused by a weak ejector spring or a worn ejector plunger. Sometimes it's caused by the extractor.

Stove piping in a self loading rifle with a fixed ejector can have several root causes. If the ejector pivots, it could have a weak spring or gunk hindering it's movement. The ejector face could be worn or broken and is now too short. Bolt speed could be too slow, either from fouling or short stroking and the case isn't hitting the ejector with enough force for positive ejection.

When trouble shooting your problem, keep in mind that the malfunction can have more than one root cause. For example, a stove pipe with a plunger ejector could be caused by a problem with the extractor as well as the ejector. With the fixed ejector, the problem could be the ejector, extractor or bolt speed or any combination of the three.

Good info there. The mini uses a fixed extractor that is also the bolt catch, Id check the ejector as suggested.
Id also check that the extractor is holding the cases correctly, its a big claw but if the spring/detent is in wrong, theres a burr, or its gunked up, it could be not catching the rim properly.

Minis are usually way over gassed, but there could be issues with the alignment of the parts in the gas system. Its not horribly hard to get the gas block off, but unless someone managed to install a bad gas parts (bushing/tube etc) or the barrels drilled incorrectly id be surprised that it wont cycle....or i guess if metal got in there and it got plugged My 582 would cycle with pmc bronze with the smallest gas bushing ASI sells. With the factory bushing they will normally knock your teeth out at 20ft, ive got a chip one of mine from a mini in highschool.

 

[socalbeachbum]

ok, I'm just reading this now as I return from the range. I cleaning the weapon well then hit the range early this morning firing 3 different brands of ammo. Of 100 rounds there were 4 stovepipes. I did not read MistWolf's lockback procedure before I went though. Each group was one 5 round mag, and it locked back on last shot every time. I'm not sure if there is a difference in locking back after 1 round fired vs after 5 rounds fired?

Lake City and PMC ammo had a couple stove pipes. America Eagle had zero issues. So after 200 break in rounds my brand new 5805 is stovepiping with certain brands of ammo. Not a real confidence builder.

My other issue is that with the rifle sighted in, the rear ghost ring is way far over to the right, no where near being centered within the 2 rear 'ears'. Taking a quick snap shot you must ignore the tendency to put the front sight centered between the 2 big prominent ears on the rear and instead force yourself to fit the ghost ring waaay over to the right.

Not real happy right now with this Ruger. Guess I can get the factory to work on reliable ejection then put an aftermarket rear sight, but I think the rear sight bolt hole is centered in the receiver and another rear sight may not solve anything.

 

[LoonWulf]

ok, I'm just reading this now as I return from the range. I cleaning the weapon well then hit the range early this morning firing 3 different brands of ammo. Of 100 rounds there were 4 stovepipes. I did not read MistWolf's lockback procedure before I went though. Each group was one 5 round mag, and it locked back on last shot every time. I'm not sure if there is a difference in locking back after 1 round fired vs after 5 rounds fired?

Lake City and PMC ammo had a couple stove pipes. America Eagle had zero issues. So after 200 break in rounds my brand new 5805 is stovepiping with certain brands of ammo. Not a real confidence builder.

My other issue is that with the rifle sighted in, the rear ghost ring is way far over to the right, no where near being centered within the 2 rear 'ears'. Taking a quick snap shot you must ignore the tendency to put the front sight centered between the 2 big prominent ears on the rear and instead force yourself to fit the ghost ring waaay over to the right.

Not real happy right now with this Ruger. Guess I can get the factory to work on reliable ejection then put an aftermarket rear sight, but I think the rear sight bolt hole is centered in the receiver and another rear sight may not solve anything.

The two issues may be related it might be that your Barrel is canted One Direction in the gas Port isn't lined up with the bushing this would also mean that your side is way to one side

 

[MistWolf]

...Each group was one 5 round mag, and it locked back on last shot every time.

The only reason to do the lock back check with one round is to save ammo and to keep from getting distracted with other tasks.. Your rifle passes the lock back check.

In light off all the issues your rifle is having, you should consider contacting Ruger. Have them address the windage problem as well.

 

[socalbeachbum]

thanks all. I did call Ruger Friday and receptionist said the tech support guys mostly did not come in Friday, maybe due to the storm, so I'll hand this thing over to their care next week. Not happy after spending what I did for this.

The new Ruger PC Carbine I ordered is half the price and should handle everything I need it for.

 

[FL-NC]

I have a new SS Mini-14, recent manufacture and with only 100 rounds through it, I'm wondering if

there should be failures to eject? I've tried 4 or 5 brands of new factory ammo, good stuff, and the

problem happened 4 or 5 times while going through 100 rounds. Should I just clean it well and try

again?

Send it back.

 

[Milkmaster]

This is one thing to check that is easy to do. It can be put in upside down if you don't know any better.

 

[JohnB-40]

Don't let it get to you and put you off your new Mini. Ruger has a really good customer service and will take care of it. Mine took 2 weeks to get back to my house in Oregon from me sending it in......About 10 days of that it was with FedEx.