Gunman1981
Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2020
- Messages
- 23
I joined this forum to answer anything I may know the answer to. Please feel free to ask anything
1. Any suggestions for smoothing out Glock factory trigger without parts replacement? (Specific to Gen3 G22/G23/G27)Please feel free to ask anything
Have you ever seen a barrel this eccentric? And is it safe to shoot? Ive shot 10 rounds through it, but wouldnt mind a second opinion.
Welcome to THR.
1. Any suggestions for smoothing out Glock factory trigger without parts replacement? (Specific to Gen3 G22/G23/G27)
2. How about smoothing out Ruger 10/22 factory trigger?
3. I am currently breaking in a new 10/22 Collector #3 leaving it factory stock while documenting every 10 shot group comparing different ammunition (20+). Currently I am at shimming below V block and electrical tape around back of receiver to free float the barrel and better secure the receiver to the stock. Would appreciate your comments (My goal is to benefit typical plinker who doesn't want to spend hundreds of dollars changing out the barrel, trigger and stock).
Shimming of V block post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...22-collector-3-break-in.859106/#post-11307816
Electrical tape to back of receiver post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lector-3-break-in.859106/page-2#post-11351163
Thank you in advance.
My current Glocks are well broken in and have 10K - 20K+ rounds shot through and average 4.5 lb to less than 5.0 lb trigger pull. I was asking for other THR members dealing with breaking in new Glock triggers. Thank you.The factory Glock trigger bar is stamped, and has a few points of contact that causes grit, one being the rearmost section that contacts the striker. If you look closely, you’ll see imperfections that can be smoothed out with a hard Arkansas stone, as well as the ramped portion that depresses the striker safety. I typically modify the ramp to the striker safety by imparting a more radical angle, being sure not to change the height of the protrusion. That, along with clipping a coil or two from the striker safety along with polishing the outside of the trigger bar where it rides against the frame have proven to make the most improvement. I’d recommend a 4.5lb striker spring as well
It is Collector #3 - https://ruger.com/products/1022Carbine/specSheets/31115.htmlAs far as the 10/22, I would advise against shimming the receiver with anything soft. Are you opposed to modifying the inside of your stock? Does your rifle utilize a barrel band, or is it one of the higher-end 10/22s with a walnut stock?
Even with the electrical tape wrapped around the receiver, plastic shim I am using free floats the barrel so I can readily slide copy paper around the barrel.If you shim the rear of the receiver, you’ll be forcing the barrel to contact the friend, which will cause the barrel contact.
Even with the electrical tape wrapped around the receiver, plastic shim I am using free floats the barrel so I can readily slide copy paper around the barrel.
I could try just taping the sides of the receiver.
Oh no, I am not shimming the bottom of the receiver, just wrapping the electrical tape around the side to back and to side again. Nothing under the receiver to tilt the barrel down.If you shim the rear of the receiver, you’ll be forcing the barrel to contact the [foreend], which will cause the barrel contact
I had intended to do that originally but since I was doing "real world" 10/22 break-in thread, I wanted to see if I could do simpler free float using shim under the V block to see if I could shrink group size to benefit other THR members. (BTW, it did)You could bed the rifle, that will benefit you the most.
That, along with clipping a coil or two from the striker safety
Have you ever seen a barrel this eccentric? And is it safe to shoot? Ive shot 10 rounds through it, but wouldnt mind a second opinion.
I'd like to know
Can a 10/22 ever run perfect?
Here's a question for you.I joined this forum to answer anything I may know the answer to. Please feel free to ask anything