Pulling Bullets

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Mixed Nuts

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I just tried to pull some 158 grain .357 magnum bullets. They are lead, hardcast, semi-wadcutters, and they lead my revolver at low power loadings.

Anyway. I used a press mounted RCBS bullet puller. It has a die with a lock nut and a collet that slips inside the die. The collet is tightened by way of being lifted into the die. A threaded rod, with a handle, screws into the collet from above and lifts it into the die body.

Collet would not grab the hardcast semi-wadcutters. Best I could do was cram a couple bullets way down in their respective cases.

What is wrong?
 
Yep there is not enough straight wall on those SWC bullets so that the collet would get a good enough grip to pull the bullet. The hammer style puller is what I use for most handgun ammo I need to pull. You can use a set of pliers to grip the bullet through the hole at the top of the press with no die in it to remove them but you will ruin the bullets.
 
Mixed Nuts said:
Best I could do was cram a couple bullets way down in their respective cases.
Click to expand...
You don't have the collet far enough onto the shank of the bullet if you're pushing the bullets into the cases.

What I have done is start off with an inertia puller to expose more of the shank and then use the collet...makes less mess in saving the powder in the case
 
I've crimped them pretty far into the cannelure. Can't even whack them out. Ha! It's only about 12 cartridges. Still vexes me some though. Gonna have to go with FROG207's suggestion. But that may have to wait as I currently load on a hand press. :) 12 cartridges will wait in a box in a bottom drawer until... someday.
 
Then on impact do not try to hold it down. Allow it bounce back freely, the change in direction is what knocks it out. Another words use a loose grip to allow the hammer (puller) to rebound. I normally use the concrete floor or heavy anvil, floor is more convenient.
 
I just finish pulling 1900+ 9mm bullets using this Hornady puller:
Hornady 050095 Cam Lock Bullet Puller
 
It was not that bad. I was able to do a 200 in an hour.
This was ammo giving to me as the original owner was having squibs, misfires and ruptures cases. He gave me all he had under the promise I would pull them down.
 
9mmepiphany said:
Y
What I have done is start off with an inertia puller to expose more of the shank and then use the collet...makes less mess in saving the powder in the case
Click to expand...
Exactly. I've put a spacer inside the impact puller that will prevent the bullet from coming all the way out of the case. I do a whole batch that way, then move to the collet puller to finish extracting the bullets. Makes it way easier to deal with the powder that way.
 
The trouble with that method is that you have to go through two operations to remove a bullet. That takes additional time and generally sucks when you are not yet retired.:p
 
I will try again, learned respondents. Maybe just risk the tool and hit the tile on concrete floor. Also, will try to allow the bounce back effect Blue68f100 has suggested.
 
FROGO207 said:
The trouble with that method is that you have to go through two operations to remove a bullet. That takes additional time and generally sucks when you are not yet retired.:p
Click to expand...
Yeah, it is two operations, but I don't think it takes that much longer. Just 2-3 good whacks to loosen each one. Some time is saved when you simply pour the powder out of the case, instead of having to clean the powder and bullet out of the whacker each time. I may have to time it next time (but I do everything I can think of to prevent me from having to do this in the first place - LOL).
 
The cannelure is steep, the bullets are hardcast to 18BHN, and the crimp is a roll type and it's in good. I cannot whack them out. I'm hitting the tool so hard now that I expect it to shatter and every few strokes the catridge pulls out of the cuff on the rebound and flies around the room.

On a side note, I don't think I like 18 BHN cast bullets in .357. There only good - out of my revolver - at higher speeds but at those speeds they are not as accurate as jacketed, softer lead bullet reloads.

People have mentioned that 14-15 BHN is a better hardness. If I go cast again I may try that. But today, I'm kinda down on cast for true magnum loads.
 
Run a coarse thread screw in the top of the bullet long enough screw that the screw head sticks above the press grab with pliers.Ruins the bullet but you can pull about anything.Run the screw in as far as you can without damaging the case.
 
Two suggestions: Keep the cap on TIGHT, and use the rebound as stated above (and in the instructions). I can't see how the cartridge can fly out...?
 
Are twelve .357 mag cases worth all this bother? Yes, if you learn how to use the inertial puller because we all need one some time or another. I hit mine on the concrete floor of the garage and sometimes I have to really go at it. S Good Luck.
 
Here are some pictures. I have the Lyman tool and it has a short handle - this could contribute. Also, the tool must be tightened after every stroke as it is loosened by the impact. This loosening causes the cartridge to fly free. I don't have any other kinetic experience so maybe the Lyman is crummy - I don't like the little plastic collets much. Honestly, I just beat the heck out of the thing on a tile floor. Nothing happened except that my hand feels like I've been at batting practice.

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