Putting in a new door

[Norton]

We're in the "putting back together" stages of our renovation and since many of the interior doors were mismatched I've been slowly replacing the odd ones with matching six-panel doors.

This is a pretty easy task with all of the mouldings off, and while I'm at it I thought that this is a good time to put some solid core doors in strategic places like the master bedroom. This would hopefully give me a few extra seconds to prepare a little suprise for any BG's

Any suggestions for "beefing up" the installation?

 

[Greg L]

Use long screws that go deep into the door jamb.

A search on installing front doors should give you a good idea on what you should do for the bedroom to make it more secure.

Do you have kids? You don't want to make it so secure that they can't get in to tell you that their sister just threw up in her bed (probably much more likely than someone prowling around the inside of your house).

Or if everyone has their bedrooms on the same floor (assuming a 2 story house) you could put a security gate at the top of the stairs that could be closed at night to seperate that sleeping area from the rest of the house. Of course there again you have to weigh the likelyhood of someone breaking into your house vs. a kid sneaking downstairs to get a midnight snack and locking themselves down there.

Greg

 

[mtnbkr]

GregL pretty much said what I would say. The security gate is a nice idea.

Chris

 

[Art Eatman]

There are dealies you can inlet into the hinge-side of a door which are steel pegs that go into metal shields on the jamb. These augment the strength of the hinges.

Install a double-deadlock in the door, and leave the key in the bedroom side. Or you can get the kind that are blind (outside) and have a knob on the inside.

Keeping a charged-up cellphone in the bedroom ensures that cutting phone wires won't be useful to a Bad Guy.

Art

 

[TarpleyG]

I have installed my fair share of doors in my life. For the "strong" doors, I would forego the six-panel jobs since the panels defeat your purpose. Look for security hinges. I think someone eluded to them in an earlier response. We have to use those here in FL because all our doors open outwards thus exposing the hinge pins. You don't have to worry about exposed hinge pins but they do have a tab and recess that will strengthen the hinge. Also, make sure you use three hinges, not just two that are normal for an interior door.

Someone also mentioned longer screws. That is probably the single best thing you can do. Use them for the lock side as well as the hinge side. I would use #10 brass screws that are as long as you can use. Usually 3" is the maximum. Use soap on the threads before screwing them in and drill a small pilot hole. Makes it easier to screw all the way in without stripping the head. Make sure you beef up the surround jamb as well and that the screws go through the jamb into a stud or sometimes two. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

I would also add a deadbolt to your door even if it is just a one-sided deadbolt (see below). I prefer Schlage but almost any good quality lock will do. Another level if you are really up for it is to add a bar across the back of the door. This usually is not asthetically pleasing though.

One last comment--use a solid wood door like oak. Some solid core doors are made up of "particle board" with a skin on either side. I forget the term used for those. Steel doors aren't that good because the steel isn't that thick and only foam resides in the middle.

GT

 

[foghornl]

This is how I set up the door to my "strong room/closet"

Took off the moldings, and the sheetrock [drywall] on closet side. "doubled up" on the 2x4's all around, and bolted the 2x4's together with #14 3-1/2" brass screws. Replaced door & frame with steel exterior door, & used more 3-1/2" screws to hold door in place.

Added 'blind deadbolt' on closet side. 2 layers of 3/4" exterior plywood around doorway again on closet side.

Friend with a 'walk-in' basement did essentially the same with his living area to basement door.

 

[Norton]

Good ideas one and all.

After my experience putting in the hollow-core door in the bathroom yesterday, I feel like I have two options for the bedroom door, either just put the existing hollow-core door back up or pay someone to put the solid door in. Too many things out of plumb in this old house.

I think that we'll have to go with the six-panels doors since everything else in the house is six-panel.

The doors at Home Despot say "pine solid core door", so I would hope that would be sufficient. I tried to move one and it is HEAVY compared to the hollow version. It also comes equipped with three 3.5in hinges. I think that this, combined with a good deadbolt should make a reasonable stalling barrier.

A ballistics question since I only ever get to shoot at boring paper targets: How effective is a solid piece of wood (like a door) at stopping/deflecting bullets?

 

[Art Eatman]

Soft pine won't even slow down bullets of 9mm, etc. Solid oak will at least reduce the remaining energy, and would possibly stop the pipsqueaks.

If you're worried about somebody shooting through a door or wall, get behind the bed or lean the mattress up against the door.

Art

 

[Norton]

Art,

Pretty much what I figured as far as pine and bullets go.

As we start to put the furniture in the room, I'm going to give thought to where it should go as far as cover/concealment goes. I just have to get the wife to agree to the aesthetics of it however

 

[bogie]

Do not install anything that will get in the way of someone panicking in a house fire.

And even the most level-headed folks sometimes lose it.

 

[Spot77]

And don't forget; even the thickest door does you no good ballistically with all of that crappy drywall surrounding you.

 

[Norton]

Anyone got access to some sheet steel and a welding torch

 

[Carlos Cabeza]

I replaced one of those particle board doors on the front of a friends house a few months ago after a break in attempt. Just for kicks I decided to see if a pistol would penetrate it effectively. DO NOT TRY THIS, TAKE MY IDIOT WORD FOR IT ! 9mm had no problem perforating the door although the projectile was severely deformed and only minor damage to 1 1/4 plywood stop I used behind the test door. Would likely penetrate flesh. a .22 would also go through the door but did not do as much damage to the stop plywood. both tests done at 10ft. with eye protection and kevlar vest. Ball 9mm and high velocity .22 CCI stinger.

 

[TRLaye]

Door

Just for info on mattress. In spite of the movies and TV shows the mattress of a bed offers no ballistic protection.

Bed springs might, I say might, deflect a round but will not actually stop it.

You might also think about a peep-hole or gun port. ';>)

Tom

 

[clubsoda22]

carlos, my aguila's would have perforated the door and the plywood backer No i don't have to worry about the neighbors, all the houses around here are 70 years old and have 18" stone walls. That and I never miss

 

[Carlos Cabeza]

The test wasn't very scientific, It was a 2 1/4" particle board solid core with a birch veneer skin. I really didn't think the .22 would have penetrated but I was surprised. The backer was standard 1 1/4" 5 ply sub flooring. I didn't mention the 9mm was target grade bulk pack, not anything special.

 

[ShaiVong]

I want one of those panic rooms, like in the move... panic room...