Python with sticky ejection

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The mark is about 2/3rds the way up the 38 special round length. I was able to spot the blemish from the front of the cylinder and shove a 38 special (spent round) in to measure it.

Maybe a 38 colt? I don't think a 38 S&W would fit but having never tried it I am not sure, but I need a round that is about 2/3rds the height of a 38 special to make the mark.

The more I think about it and look at it, the more I am convinced it was some sort of burn mark as I don't see how it could be in every cylinder at about the same place.
 
I have a Smith model 65 that had a similar problem. Three of the chambers were a little tight and the spent brass was sticking. The casings had "scratch" marks where they were sticking. I bought a .38 cal ceramic burnisher from Brownells and used that to gently and slowly hone the chambers. It worked nicely. :) All the cases drop out like they should now.
 
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I did much the same thing to a S&W belonging to a friend. We found a tiny burr near the extractor. A little burnishing and the gun worked flawlessly. It's amazing how a tiny burr caused such difficult extraction.
 
Peter M. Eick said:
...I need a round that is about 2/3rds the height of a 38 special to make the mark.
I would use the stem of my dial calipers as you could see what you're doing a lot better, but I guess you could cut down a retired 38 Special or 357 case.
 
Problem solved, but a slightly related side question

How does 0000 gauge steel wool rate on any sort of 'Abrasive Scale', assuming there is such a critter, against 2000 and high count grit sandpaper?

The higher count grit paper is used to polish granite counter tops, automobile finishes, etc.

It'd seem to have a place comparable to 0000 Steel, or Bronze Wool.

Don't know, just asking.

Thanks,

salty
 
Salty,
No abrasives around my Colt. First, because it hasn't been necessary, second, because accidents happen. Just like you wouldn't rest a glass of red wine next to your embossed resume. In spite of other people who can drink and type successfully.
 
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How does 0000 gauge steel wool rate on any sort of 'Abrasive Scale',
It doesn't.

Super fine steel wool is not abrasive.

It is softer then the steel used to make guns.
And it is softer then the black oxide finish resulting from rust bluing or hot tank bluing.

All grades of super fine sandpaper ARE abrasive, and will wear through blued finished sooner rather then later if you rub it on them.

That's why firearms finishers use super fine steel wool, and not super fine abrasive papers & polishing compound like car painters and rock countertop finishers use.
They want something that cuts the finish.
Not something like steel wool that doesn't cut through.

They use the papers and polishing compounds to polish the steel before it is blued, not after.
 
I was able to get some OOOO (4x) steel wool this weekend and now I am ready to spin it in the chamber.

Any advice on how much to spin it or how tight to wrap it around the brush? I was thinking just a few seconds (10?) per cylinder at moderate speeds?
 
It doesn't matter.

Use powder solvent, wrap it so it is a tight fit in the chamber, and spin it till your hearts content while working it in & out of each chamber..

As I said in a older post.
0000 SW & oil is not going to hurt anything Sam Colt didn't put in there with a chamber reamer to begin with.

I would not do 5 minutes per chamber.
But 10 seconds per chamber isn't enough.

rc
 
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