Question about 1911 for carry

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Altho i have nothing against the Citadel as its basically the same thing as my RIA CS.
Mine has the sights milled onto the slide which im not so sure i like or dislike, But being smaller id think they may tend to not hang up as easily.
But anyways my point is you cant beat RIA for its CS and warranty.

I never thought much of the Philippine made guns until i actually bought one. Sure mine needed some fluffing and buffing but ive become to be a stickler in smoothing my guns out as much as possible. And altho it wasn't so "Polished" internally, It was more than adequate for most people.

I will be keeping this one bone stock except for all the fluff and buff work and a good spare trigger i had on hand, It will have a big fight on its hand to see which gets carried it or my fully rebuilt Gov. with all hand fit high end parts.
I mean seriously how do you choose which gun to carry that day when both are great?!
 
I would not buy a $500 dollar 3" 1911 for daily carry to defend your life with, unless it was a highly discounted or used Colt New Agent or Defender. And then, I would spend the money to send it to a reputable 1911 pistolsmith to check it out and correct any issues. This is a gun you will be staking your life on, and it has to be perfect. You will need to keep on top of things like recoil springs and magazine springs (3" guns are VERY sensitive to the condition of these), and extractor condition and tension. In a 3" 1911, you are always on the ragged edge of not functioning, due to the drastically reduced slide timing.

If you want a compact .45 Auto without the attention and diligence a 3" 1911 requires, get a Glock or Springfield XD or Smith M&P.
 
I think I am still leaning towards to the Springfield GI looks like for the most part they seem to be pretty good and now come with the ejection port lowered I know the Rock Islands are cheaper but if I do have any problems SA will pay for the shipping where RIA will not.

1911's just feel better in my hand than the Glocks, XDs or M&P
 
In January the new American Classic officer model should be arriving in US . Will be in your price range .
The RIA compact and citadel are same basic pistol. Either one will do If you can wait for the new AC officer.

http://bersachat.com
 
I would not buy a $500 dollar 3" 1911 for daily carry to defend your life with, unless it was a highly discounted or used Colt New Agent or Defender. And then, I would spend the money to send it to a reputable 1911 pistolsmith to check it out and correct any issues. This is a gun you will be staking your life on, and it has to be perfect. You will need to keep on top of things like recoil springs and magazine springs (3" guns are VERY sensitive to the condition of these), and extractor condition and tension. In a 3" 1911, you are always on the ragged edge of not functioning, due to the drastically reduced slide timing.

If you want a compact .45 Auto without the attention and diligence a 3" 1911 requires, get a Glock or Springfield XD or Smith M&P.

This is why i bought a full sized 1911 first to learn how to work on and adjust them when needed.
I can see people saying "Don't trust a $150 High Point with your life" But to say a $500 gun cant do the job is even more ridiculous.

Ive researched these guns reliability record and its right up there with the New Agent and Defender, Its why i bought one.
While i do agree you need to be diligent on maintenance to keep them reliable that can be said about any 3" 1911.
Not everyone needs a gunsmith to keep their guns running reliably.
 
Ruger's reliable KP345PR flies under the radar and eats all types of ammo without a hickup. It is well built, very thin and easy to CCW with. Did I mention reliable? :) This underrated (8 + 1) 45 ACP goes for about $400 - $450 and is a good value compared to most other smaller framed 45's that are finicky on ammo.

http://www.ruger.com/products/p345/specSheets/6645.html
 
This is why i bought a full sized 1911 first to learn how to work on and adjust them when needed.
I can see people saying "Don't trust a $150 High Point with your life" But to say a $500 gun cant do the job is even more ridiculous.

Ive researched these guns reliability record and its right up there with the New Agent and Defender, Its why i bought one.
While i do agree you need to be diligent on maintenance to keep them reliable that can be said about any 3" 1911.
Not everyone needs a gunsmith to keep their guns running reliably.
Which gun's reliability record are you speaking of?

The bottom line is, for most of the $500 or less 1911s, compromises have been made to keep the cost down, no matter the brand. Depending on where those compromises have been made, the function and reliability of the weapon may have been compromised. You can't just slap parts together on a 1911 from the parts box, as you well know. Things have to be fitted and in spec (the original spec, not some new spec the manufacturer thought was "better"). Yes, I know some guns with slapped together parts will run, but that doesn't mean it is running correctly. By that I mean as soon as you get a little wear, or a spring loses a slight amount of tension, or any other change in the system that comes from normal use, the gun is much more likely to fail than it would if everything was well fitted and in spec.

I'm not gonna argue price point, I'm merely arguing build quality and attention to fit and function before it leaves the factory. Even with the Colts and Springfields, I'd still be willing to pay a pistolsmith to "blueprint" the gun to make sure it was built and fitted correctly. I'm not talking about thousands of dollars for a custom build; most pistolsmiths offer a reasonably priced "reliability package" that covers everything you need. The Springfield and Colt custom shops offer this as well, and it is money well spent as far as I'm concerned.

Yes, not everyone needs a gunsmith to maintain their 1911s. However, it does take some basic armorer's skill and knowledge that most people don't have, and reading about it on an internet forum doesn't count.

I think one good test for the function of any gun you choose for self defense or duty use is to use it in competition or a training course. If the gun runs without a hitch under those conditions, consistently, despite operating conditions and your own fatigue, then it's probably good to go. Just shooting a box or two of ammo at the range every weekend, with a failure here or there due to "limp wristing" or "not enough lube" ain't gonna cut it.

Why are people willing to accept intermittent failures with a 1911, but not with a Glock? To me, the same standard of reliability and function should apply to both.

But that's me, and I know a lot of people are ok with shooting their 1911 50 times and saying it's ok for duty. I would just want to spend a little extra time and money to make sure.
 
Well you have your opinion and even tho i don't completely agree i don't fully disagree either.
Its your money and you can spend it as you see fit. What people feel is "acceptable" in many area's is never the same with everyone.
But i don't feel ive put myself in any more risk than you have despite you spending extra money for piece of mind which still doesn't guarantee anything or mean your gun is more reliable. I do feel you have lowered the odds of failures, But thats about it.

I don't accept failures in my guns either, If i have one i always look at the gun and not the ammo or shooter.

In reality we could take a Hi-point .45 and a Wilson Combat and put them both threw a high round torture test and see which one fails first.
Since we both agree tuning any gun for carry is the best thing to do you could have it done to these guns also for the test.
I know the smart money would seem to be to bet on the Wilson with its high end stronger parts and superior design. But the ruggedness and weight and stationary barrel of the HP very well could beat the Wilson in that test.
My whole point in that is that ANY gun can fail no matter how it started life and how it was tuned it guarantee's nothing.
And just because my 1911 cost alot less and was tuned and fitted by me doesn't mean yours that more expensive and smith tuned will be less susceptible to failures than mine would be.

On a different note have you owned or shot or been inside the new crop of budget priced 1911's? If not i highly suggest you do if you get a chance as i think you would be surprised that even tho they aren't highly polished, Nor hand fit but they are built well and strong. If this wasn't so you wouldn't be seeing all the praise these guns are getting these days.

Of course id rather shoot a finely tuned high end 1911, But that don't mean it cant do the same job as its less expensive twin. It just means it wont be as smooth and refined.
 
The trouble with compact 1911s is that the manufacturers treat them like a more exclusive model, there are very few economy options.

For me, honestly, if I wanted to go sub-compact with a lot of caliber options, I would look at a Glock.

My points and thoughts exactly.

I have a 3" Kimber Ultra Raptor. It's reliability is less than my Glocks. For the price, reliability and features the Glock (or Springfield XD) is a tough one to resist.

I have two 1911s-Officers and Commander size. I find the 3" 1911 to be quirky.
 
Well you have your opinion and even tho i don't completely agree i don't fully disagree either.
Its your money and you can spend it as you see fit. What people feel is "acceptable" in many area's is never the same with everyone.
But i don't feel ive put myself in any more risk than you have despite you spending extra money for piece of mind which still doesn't guarantee anything or mean your gun is more reliable. I do feel you have lowered the odds of failures, But thats about it.

I don't accept failures in my guns either, If i have one i always look at the gun and not the ammo or shooter.

In reality we could take a Hi-point .45 and a Wilson Combat and put them both threw a high round torture test and see which one fails first.
Since we both agree tuning any gun for carry is the best thing to do you could have it done to these guns also for the test.
I know the smart money would seem to be to bet on the Wilson with its high end stronger parts and superior design. But the ruggedness and weight and stationary barrel of the HP very well could beat the Wilson in that test.
My whole point in that is that ANY gun can fail no matter how it started life and how it was tuned it guarantee's nothing.
And just because my 1911 cost alot less and was tuned and fitted by me doesn't mean yours that more expensive and smith tuned will be less susceptible to failures than mine would be.

On a different note have you owned or shot or been inside the new crop of budget priced 1911's? If not i highly suggest you do if you get a chance as i think you would be surprised that even tho they aren't highly polished, Nor hand fit but they are built well and strong. If this wasn't so you wouldn't be seeing all the praise these guns are getting these days.

Of course id rather shoot a finely tuned high end 1911, But that don't mean it cant do the same job as its less expensive twin. It just means it wont be as smooth and refined.
I'm just talking about making sure the gun is built correctly, not about how smooth and refined it is. For anyone familiar with 1911s, they know how much of a crapshoot it is to find a 1911 that is built correctly, despite the price point.

By correctly I don't mean how "strong" or "rugged" or high end, I mean is the frame ramp cut to the correct depth and angle, is the breech face at the right angle and the width between the two blocks on either side of it correct, is the barrel link length correct, is the extractor nose the correct length and is the adjustment pad on it adjusted so that the hook face sits at the correct depth into the breech area, are the holes in the frame in the right spot, etc. These are all things that most people have no clue about, but they are crucial to the proper function of a 1911.

If you can make sure that all of these things are correct, then you have done all you can to assure the 1911 is going to operate to it's full potential in terms of function. That has nothing to do with being smooth or refined.

If the gun is a $350 gun made in the Phillipines and all of the aforementioned areas are within spec, then it is in better shape than a lot of the high dollar guns being churned out now (cough, Kimber, cough).

For a good read of how even the high end guns may not be right, see: http://10-8performance.blogspot.com/2010/07/kimber-warrior.html

I'm just trying to present some additional points to consider for the OP that might help in his decision. Might save him a lot of money and heartache and another "1911s are crap because mine jammed all the time" thread.

As an aside, many top rank pistolsmiths and factory custom shops charge about $100 to go through the gun completely and make sure everything is up to spec. That's what, a few Wilson magazines, or 5 boxes of ammo in terms of cost? More than worth it.

Cheers!
 
I am not trying to start or get in any arguments, but doesn't the SA GI sell for 500-600 just because it lacks some of the higher end features or extras and not because it isn't made well.

For example beavertail safety, skeletonized trigger/hammer, matched grade barrel etc. I know this things are nice to have but are they really necessary in order to have a reliable pistol that is accurate at self defense distances.
 
The only major issue I've heard of, other than out of spec stuff that can show up on any production pistol, is the two piece barrel shooting loose. But you are going to have to shoot it a LOT to ever hope of having that happen. Also, extractors have been know to be a weak point on Springfields. I know, I have one.

Either way, I'd still run it hard for 500 trouble free rounds before considering it ready for duty. If it hiccups at all during that time, send it back to Springfield and have them fix it.
 
Yeah for sure no matter what gun I get it will have to be proven before it is carried by itself. The only gun I carry that wasn't shot that many times before carry duty is my S&W 642.
 
I'm just trying to present some additional points to consider for the OP that might help in his decision. Might save him a lot of money and heartache and another "1911s are crap because mine jammed all the time" thread.

As an aside, many top rank pistolsmiths and factory custom shops charge about $100 to go through the gun completely and make sure everything is up to spec. That's what, a few Wilson magazines, or 5 boxes of ammo in terms of cost? More than worth it.

Cheers!

We may actually agree more than disagree the more we talk. I don't have the money pay smith for things i can do myself or really to inspect a gun that has been 100% for many hundreds of rounds.
After all you like 1911's so you cant be all that bad right? lol

I hate to say it but from all the bad things ive read on the net i wouldn't touch a 3" Kimber with a $1k price tag and from what the net says is a realistic 50/50% of issues right out of the box.
But i have no issues with 5" Kimbers personally as i know i could make it run.
Im no gunsmith, And most likley it sounds like you even may know more about what specs make a reliable gun more than i do. But from a person who understands how they work and can diagnose them pretty well im confident in making sure my guns are able to protect my life with good reliability.

If you ever get the chance tho check out an RIA CS 3.5" Officers as i think you would be impressed besides all the internal fluffing and buffing that is really needed internally.

tjoe20- Id say yes your right, The SA G.I. is just a plain version and money is saved by using less expensive to make parts, But still of high quality tho. And they do less machining and put a cheaper finish on it. All the parts will be undersized also so they don't have to pay a smith to sit there and hand fit each part by hand. It doesn't make it weaker or bad, It just will have slightly looser tolerances in part fitment.
Ive not been inside one and seen how much work is done internally by hand and i doubt not much, But that dont make it any less reliable than a $1k SA 3"

My RIA CS 3.5" was about as basic as it possibly could have been internally. But for $425 i expected that. EVERYTHING in the firing group was parkerized and no mating surfaces had parkerization removed and polished. But id say after 1k rounds it should wear in itself and smooth out on its own as long as it was lubed correctly.
It still ran the risk of uneven wear so thats why i spend many hours inside mine polishing and making the sear and hammer better.
One thing ive found on these type guns is they all use the worst triggers they can find i think. Just the trigger as a part is what im referring too. They are always too short creating way too much pretravel and also most have no over travel stop to adjust.
Any decent $25 trigger will generally make a big improvement in these guns.

My only regret with the RIA CS is i didn't buy it sooner as i was hoping to eventually have enough cash to buy a New Agent.
 
I would look at a nice used Smith and wesson 3913,they are in your price range.Do a little research and you will find these are one of the most dependable pistols ever made.
 
We may actually agree more than disagree the more we talk. I don't have the money pay smith for things i can do myself or really to inspect a gun that has been 100% for many hundreds of rounds.
After all you like 1911's so you cant be all that bad right? lol

I hate to say it but from all the bad things ive read on the net i wouldn't touch a 3" Kimber with a $1k price tag and from what the net says is a realistic 50/50% of issues right out of the box.
But i have no issues with 5" Kimbers personally as i know i could make it run.
Im no gunsmith, And most likley it sounds like you even may know more about what specs make a reliable gun more than i do. But from a person who understands how they work and can diagnose them pretty well im confident in making sure my guns are able to protect my life with good reliability.

If you ever get the chance tho check out an RIA CS 3.5" Officers as i think you would be impressed besides all the internal fluffing and buffing that is really needed internally.

tjoe20- Id say yes your right, The SA G.I. is just a plain version and money is saved by using less expensive to make parts, But still of high quality tho. And they do less machining and put a cheaper finish on it. All the parts will be undersized also so they don't have to pay a smith to sit there and hand fit each part by hand. It doesn't make it weaker or bad, It just will have slightly looser tolerances in part fitment.
Ive not been inside one and seen how much work is done internally by hand and i doubt not much, But that dont make it any less reliable than a $1k SA 3"

My RIA CS 3.5" was about as basic as it possibly could have been internally. But for $425 i expected that. EVERYTHING in the firing group was parkerized and no mating surfaces had parkerization removed and polished. But id say after 1k rounds it should wear in itself and smooth out on its own as long as it was lubed correctly.
It still ran the risk of uneven wear so thats why i spend many hours inside mine polishing and making the sear and hammer better.
One thing ive found on these type guns is they all use the worst triggers they can find i think. Just the trigger as a part is what im referring too. They are always too short creating way too much pretravel and also most have no over travel stop to adjust.
Any decent $25 trigger will generally make a big improvement in these guns.

My only regret with the RIA CS is i didn't buy it sooner as i was hoping to eventually have enough cash to buy a New Agent.
I agree with all of this.

There are three brands I recommend to people without hesitation in the 1911 arena. Colt, Springfield, and RIA if looking specifically in the sub $500 range. All three of these have one thing in common, and that's excellent customer service. Also, I'd probably throw S&W in there too, although I have no experience with their 1911s (just revolvers, which I really like). They just tend to be pricey when compared to similar models from Colt and Springfield, although again their customer service is top notch.

I'm having a great experience with Colt's customer service at the moment. I've had a Commander for a couple of years now, and it's accuracy has been, how shall we say, erratic. It would shoot great groups for two magazines, then just start looking like a buckshot pattern. However, it was dead nuts reliable so I never got motivated to send it back. Finally, I contacted Colt about the erratic accuracy and they said send it in. The made (yes, made) a new barrel, fit a tighter bushing, and refinished the gun at no cost to me. I'll have no problem buying Colts from now on.

Two main things I look for when buying a 1911. First, does the company have a solid reputation of knowing how to properly build a 1911, and second, will they stand behind their product no questions asked. Since sometimes getting a solid, correctly built 1911 is a crapshoot, that second one becomes most important.

I have a New Agent. I bought it in almost new condition from Bud's Gun Shop. It has run like a top since the day I got it. I got it not for the size, but for the weight reduction over a full size, all steel pistol. To me, that's the only reason to get a 3" 1911, for the weight reduction, and the only significant weight reduction you'll get is with an aluminum frame. In my opinion, you don't gain much going to a smaller 1911, all steel, but you do lose a lot in terms of reliability and shootability. Also, the smaller guns seem to be less stable when carried because you don't have the extra barrel length against your butt stabilizing the grip. I am getting ready to switch over my main carry from the New Agent to a 5" Springfield lightweight that John Harrison worked over for me. The 5" seems to carry better for me, and the difference between the steel and aluminum frames is very noticeable in terms of all day comfort.

I'd still like to get a plane jane GI Rock Island. Never shot one, but I've had one in my hand several times and they always seemed pretty smooth, and a couple of them had really nice triggers. And again, RIA CS is top notch from everything I've heard and read.
 
A friend has a GI MicroCompact which he bought for a great price at Springfield's hut at Camp Perry.

The gun has fed and functioned with everything I've fed through it or seen him feed through it, including 230gr. ball, 200gr. LSWC bullseye handloads, and 117gr. Aguila IQ.

I wouldn't hesitate to by a MicroCompact.
 
I would look at a nice used Smith and wesson 3913,they are in your price range.Do a little research and you will find these are one of the most dependable pistols ever made.
That presumes that:
  1. He wants a 9x19mm instead of a .45.
  2. He wants a DA/SA auto. I can't stand them.
If he's happy with those features, then yes, he'll probably be satisfied with the S&W.
 
Yeah not looking for 9mm already have S&W that is dao. Now I want my first 1911
 
Now if you must have NIB the RIA has a good rep. Their fit and finish is often inconsistent from gun to gun but most are serviceable. As others have pointed out RIA, Citadel and ATI are all from the same Armscor plant. Basically the same gun. If you have to stay under $600 that is where I would go.

That said I would not buy one. I would save my $$$ and get a $800 Colt Defender NIB, and yes I can get them for that price. :D I would also shoot ball ammo. It is more reliable out of the shorter barrel and expansion on JHP out of a 3" barrel is not as reliable as it is out of longer barrels.

If it were me I would look for a used Colt CCO. Commander slide and a officers grip. Perfect for carry. It does not have the timing issues that 3" 1911s can have. They are perfect for carry and you can find them for $600 if you look around and are patient.
 
I just purchased a Springfield Micro a short time ago myself. Granted I have only put a little over a hundred rounds through it but it has not malfunctioned once yet. 40 rounds of WWB 230 fmj 25 rounds of WWB 230 hp's 25 rounds of UMC 230 hp's and 20 rounds of Hornady 185 CD all ran smooth.
 
I think I am going to wait until I have some more money. So now I am looking at either the Springfield Loaded Micro or a Kimber Ultra maybe the Raptor. I can pick either one up for around the same price any thoughts on which one is better?
 
For a little more you could get a used HK USP Compact, controls are basiclly the same. I have a USP CT, along with a Kimber Pro Raptor II that is a 4". The HKs being a SA/DA, if you did have a round that didn't fire on the first pull, will almost always will fire the second time the hammer falls. HK can also be carried with a round chambered, hammer back or down which is nice since some people get haired out about caring locked and cocked. I like! Since you have a SA pull just like any 1911. They cary very well and are reliable, even shooting my reloads.

Both are a little more, but some good options. And like you I hate the Glock feel. The other would be a FN, however they are very square in rear section of the grip.

FIVETWOSEVEN

He posted that he hate the way Glocks feel.
 
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The HKs being a SA/DA, if you did have a round that didn't fire on the first pull, will almost always will fire the second time the hammer falls.
A friend has one of the compact HKs. Aside from the fact that I really dislike DA autos, the trigger pull was hideous even for a DA auto. It was like a Colt All American 2000. The trigger just kept stacking as I pulled it.

If that's what they're all like, I'll never own an HK pistol.
 
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