Question about bake-on Teflon/moly coat

[Driftertank]

I've ordered a bunch of surplus steel G3 mags for my PTR-91. Haven't got them in yet, but the customer reviews say many of them have a little rusting that can be cleaned up with steel wool and oil. I've been considering how I might refinish them to make them more rust-proof and durable, as well as maybe better looking. I was looking at this stuff: Brownell's Teflon/Moly bake-on finish.

Only question I have is, if I have to clean them up then want to use a product like the one above, will the original parkerizing cause any problems with the application of the bake-on coating? Are there better options out there for the application (bearing in mind I want something a little more durable than Rust-oleum)?

Any advice or recommendations will be helpful!

 

[DWT]

I resently had two of my shotguns( an O/U and a semi-auto) refinished with DURA-COAT, with much satisfaction. It comes in many colors(I selected HK Black, a low luster finish) and is also available from Brownell's. Take a look at their web site for all the solid and camo-type finishes available.

 

[Driftertank]

Does it work okay over already parkerized metal?

 

[slicksleeve]

Use Duracoat, you don't have to bake it on, and the Duracoat website says that parkerizing is a perfect base for Duracoat. I have redone two with it so far and it adheres pretty good. (on bare metal anyway)

 

[bkjeffrey]

Parkerizing is an ideal prep for application of "paint" coatings. Parkerizing produces a granular porus texture on the surface and subsurface of the metal. Paint away!

The only thing about park is that it can hold oil after you think youve gotten all the parts clean. I insist that you clean out the parts in a bath of nearly boiling water and Dawn with OXY Clean dish detergent. SCrub scrub scub with a tooth bruch or similar and rinse a few times with the hottest water you can get.

Finally, a good blasting with NON-chlorinated brake parts cleaner will remove any residual grease/oil as well as any water that may be hiding in nooks and crannies. Preheat parts to about 120 degrees to dry defore application of final products.

Seems like alot of work , but it doesnt take long to do it right and these tips will guarantee that your finish adheres as well as it possibly can and prolong future wear.

 

[Driftertank]

Got my mags in today. Of my 20, 7 were still in factory sealed wrapping. Wiped those down with a little WD-40 and they look exactly as they should...brand new. Of the rest, the ones with light surface rust looked almost new after a little scrubbing with wd and steel wool. There's maybe 5 that I may have to refinish, and 3 that have internal rust that makes them feel "crunchy" when I moved the followers. I'll probably pull those down, clean up the springs and followers and use them as spares in case I damage any of my good ones. All in all, though, for $3 apiece, I can't complain at all, an may not need to worry about doing any space-age coating work on them. Maybe a good-ol' can of Rust-oleum to touch up the worst of them will suffice.

But thank you for all your helpful input. I may use the advice to work on refinishing my Rem 870 Security - it got used in the rain once and developed a bit of surface rust on the barrel and reciever. But it's a 'workin gun', not a showpiece.

 

[bkjeffrey]

I may use the advice to work on refinishing my Rem 870

Its easy!

If you dont feel confident about your refinishing skills PM me. Ive been doin gun coatings for 12 years.....

I can even repair major rust pitting. Also cut and crown bbls and drill and tap for sights at top dead center.


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Speaking of 870's

Check out my lates bunch, heres a bunch of old farm guns, rusted and pitted: