Question about mixed stamp 9mm?

[BigGreenZ_71]

Is there any issue with loading mixed stamps together in 9 mm or do I need to sort them out and load them by brand? Just don't know if it matters.

 

[Scimmia]

For the most part, it doesn't matter. There are some out there with crimped primer pockets, that's the only thing that could really make a difference.

That said, I sort by headstamp simply because I'm kinda anal that way.

 

[cfullgraf]

If it mattered to sort 9x19 by head stamp, I have been doing it wrong for 30 years.

If I shot 9x19 in competition, I would probably shoot one head stamp. I do that in the other shooting games i dabble in.

Periodically i run into some range pick up head stamp that just does not reload well for some reason, they get culled.

 

[Blue68f100]

Unless your shooting bullseye competition you do not need to sort. It does make a difference on how high/low the powder is in the brass. If your using a powder cop you will notice a slight difference between mfg.

 

[1SOW]

Is there any issue with loading mixed stamps together in 9 mm or do I need to sort them out and load them by brand? Just don't know if it matters.

The only issues are some headstamped brass are less than desirable for reloading. There are posts here that list headstamps and their quality.
"AMERC" is not a good case. WC/WCC and military cases won't accept primers reliably unless the primer hole is bevelled first. Most others will run fine.
You may notice some subtle different "feel" in your press depending 0on the headstamp. Some brass is harder than others, and some a little thinner/thicker. Not a big deal.
Enjoy.

 

[evan price]

A-MERC = junk. Scrap it.

WCC = Winchester contract military brass with crimped primers. Good brass, pain in the rear to swage 9mm when there's buckets of it that doesn't need swaged. I scrap it.

DAG = Dynamit Nobel AG. Tiny flash holes, you may stick or break your decap pin. Junk it.

Also watch for berdan primed foreign milsurp brass. Two small off-center flash holes. Not conventionally reloadable- scrap it.

Otherwise, I don't care what headstamp is on my 9mm. It does not matter.

 

[Walkalong]

And don't forget to use a magnet to check for S&B copper plated steel 9MM cases. The S&B brass stuff is good stuff.

I don't bother to sort by head stamp. I am just playing at the range mostly.

 

[BigGreenZ_71]

That's what I figured, but I just wanted to be sure.

I've got some brass that I bought bulk such as:

FC
*I*
CBC
GFL

Found info on them except for the *I*.

 

[Hondo 60]

www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=227399

Check this thread for *I*

 

[BigGreenZ_71]

Thanks, I tried searching google and came up with a big database for headstamps but it wasnt included. I only have 50 or less of them so no big deal.

 

[rfwobbly]

Not to be confused with *-* (Starline)

 

[d'Artagnan]

I used to recommend sorting 9mm brass because the weight differences between brands and within brands, then ran a test between standard WIN brass and WCC10 -- which is about 7% heavier. Same load generated an average muzzle velocity of 4fps greater with the WCC brass. I still sort because I have access to so much brass, but I/you really don't need to. By the way, *I* was a brand, not a manufacturer and was made by Speer, Federal, and CBC (Magtech).

 

[J_McLeod]

I'm relatively new, and have only loaded about 2300 9mm. They've all been mixed headstamps with no issues. I've started to weed out the S&B because the primers are harder to seat.