Question about "standard" 1911 guide rods?

[Trebor]

I'm not a 1911 guy so I have a couple pretty basic questions. I have a new STI Spartan with a full length guide rod. The rod does not have the "paper clip hole" drilled in the rod. That makes it *extremely* difficult to dissassemble and especially reassemble.

I want to just replace the FLGR with a "standard" guide rod. Here's the questions though. Exactly *what* do I need to order? Is there more then one type of "standard" guide rod? I'm just looking for something one-piece that would work in the Spartan.

Also, where's the best place to order from?

 

[45auto]

You need to buy two parts.

The "standard" guide rod and the "standard" recoil spring plug. Note they are for the 5", goverment model.

Brownells would be a good place to buy them. Price would/should be no more than @ $23 IMO.

 

[wally]

The Spartan/Armscor/RIA guide rods are made to take down in the more "modern" HiPower captive system.

Partially retract the slide with the bushing in its shooting position and remove the slide lock lever in the normal manner.

Remove the slide from the frame, spring pressure will push the guide rod up a bit on the barrel lugs as the slide comes off the frame.

The now cockeyed guide rod will allow rotation of the bushing and removal of the parts in the more or less normal manner.

Or you can do what I did, simply grind or file enough off the guide rod end so the bushing will rotate normally. Just be sure you don't take too much off and go below the inside shoulder of the plug hole which must still kepp the rod end captive when the slide is fully forward.

--wally.

 

[Zach S]

If you have a grinder, you could just take a little off of the end of the FLGR, and raduis the edge so it doesnt hurt function. You could probably use a file, but I have a grinder, so it gets used more than the file...

I normally cut FLGRs down to GI specs. I even have keep spare for the next 1911 I buy, along with a standard plug. One advantage to this is that if its a stainless pistol, you have a matching GI GR. I cant find short GRs in stainless.

Since so many people buy into the myth that a FLGR is needed in a 1911, a local smith might have a standard GR and plug in a parts bin that he'll sell for $10.

 

[Trebor]

Thanks guys. I'll order the 5" GM rod and plug from Brownells or Midway. I didn't know I needed the plug, so I'm glad I asked.

As far as grinding down the existing part to fit, no, I don't do that. I have no real tools and no real skill with tools. The biggest tools I use on my guns are screwdrivers and punches. If those aren't an appropriate tool for the job at hand, then I have someone else do it. Trust me, that's for the best.

 

[longeyes]

What 45Auto said. That's what I did on all three of my 1911s. No regrets.

 

[Slamfire]

I dumped all my guide rods. I had reloaded bullets that were just too long, jammed in the throat of my M1911. The bullets jammed so hard I could not rack the slide open, and I could not fire the thing out because I could not push the slide into battery. The guide rod on my Kimber prevented me from placing the muzzle on an end of a table and pushing down to remove the stuck round. That was an eye opener. Now you could say this was an event created by poor ammunition, and I would agree. But that guide rod prevented me from clearing my weapon, and that is independent of ammunition.

Got rid of them all, have not seen any difference on paper. The closer you get to the original browning design, the more reliable the M1911.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

All this assumes that parts interchange between this gun and standard 1911s.

 

[valor1]

I prefer the standard plug and guide rod designed by John Browning. It is easir to disassemble too. I don't find any advantage on the full length guide except maybe for the seller for earning a few dollars when I buy one.

 

[wally]

All this assumes that parts interchange between this gun and standard 1911s.

Not a problem with these parts on the Spartan/Armscor/RIA. Other parts may need fitting like with any 1911.

--wally.

 

[KC&97TA]

I bought a Kimber TLE... replaced the FLGR with the old GI set up, and found the gun generally worked better, cycled faster & smoother, could go longer between cleanings.

My Mil-Spec Champion came with a GI, I tried a FLGR and the pistol wouldn't cycle... so back to the originial GI.

1911 #3, SA Mil-Spec 5" build into a NRA legal Hard Ball, originially came with a GI set up, accurate with the GI set up... Change to the FLGR for experimentation... and wow, 1-1/2" group five shots at 25yrd from a pistol that has a "rattle" to the slide/frame clearance. Though the FLGR is not NRA legal for hard ball, it is for Wad-Cutter, it happened to help this particular pistol.

I've determined, in my own personal opinion, a FLGR in a "tight" 1911, slows the pistol down, interfearing with the cycle... In a loose 1911 a FLGR seems to stabilize the pistol. The reduction of recoil from the extra weight of the FLGR, doesn't seem to matter to me personally.

Think Brownells charges about $13 for both the GI Plug and GI Rod. Buy the Cheap Parkerized stuff, unless you really want a Stainless GI Plug.

 

[Zach S]

As far as grinding down the existing part to fit, no, I don't do that. I have no real tools and no real skill with tools. The biggest tools I use on my guns are screwdrivers and punches. If those aren't an appropriate tool for the job at hand, then I have someone else do it. Trust me, that's for the best.

Once upon a time, I was the same way.

Sometimes, when I think about all the stuff I've thrown away due to "learning," I wish I still was...

 

[45auto]

STI might try to have a properly made FLGR also. How long have they been making guns now?

That's the really 'easy' solution.