Question on SW 27-2

Status
Not open for further replies.

Min

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2002
Messages
915
Location
Houston, TX
I have a really nice P & R 27-2 with checkered top strap. There may be something wrong with it though. I have difficulty ejecting the cylinder for some reason. I have to push the cylinder hard from the side. What problem is this an indication of?
 
Not to my knowledge. There is a slight play on the cylinder front to back along the ejector rod when the cylinder is open, but everything else seems to be okay.

When I push the ejector button forward, it goes all the way, but the cylinder is still bound into the frame.
 
In addition to Tamara's suggestion, I would also look for unburned powder and/or lead particles under the ejector star. The extractor area should be kept clean and try so as to not attract debris.
 
Not to my knowledge. There is a slight play on the cylinder front to back along the ejector rod when the cylinder is open,

Ah.

Guy brought in a 36 with the same problem last week. Does it seem less likely to happen if you open & close the cylinder with the muzzle pointing downwards?
 
I'll have to try that.

I do notice sometimes the cylinder opens easy and sometimes it doesn't. Never made the connection about muzzle pointing downward though.

What do you think it is, Tamara?
 
I have a recently acquired M27 (no dash) with a similar condition. My FFL (who used to work with S&W) said that it is a characteristic of older, better-built S&W's. Supposedly the better fitting of these revolvers makes them a tenny bit harder to open. Since he knows more about handguns than most people I know I took his word for it.

The question is just how hard do you have to push to open the cylinder? That can be a subjective measurement.
 
I believe Tamara was referring to the ejector rod (out in front of the cylinder) comeing unscrewed. This makes opening and closing the cylinder of a S&W harder and harder as it unscrews further.

Grasp the nurled end of the ejector rod and turn it counter clock-wise (the opposite of what you would normally do). I wouldn't be surprised if you don't feel it turn a couple revolutions. Keep it snugged down (finger tight - don't use pliers) or the problem will return.

By the way, I've owned a handfull of 27s over the years (have two 27-2s now) along with a couple of 28s, a 57 & 58 and a 29. On none of them was the cylinder hard to open - unless the ejector rod had started to unscrew.
 
I just picked up a new 1972 m19 that was hard as hell to open. It had been sitting in the box for so long that it must have oxidised itself shut.

Some oil and a lot of opening and closing did the trick. I could see the residue working its way out. Now it is just Jim Dandy.

Bob
 
I checked out the pistol tonight. The problem seems to be a weak spring (the one that pushes the plunger that pushes the ejector rod forward).

The ejector rod was not loose. I'm going to have to send this one back to smith and Wesson.
 
Assuming you have a squeaky clean revolver and that you've made sure the rod is straight, I'd look at the tip of the rod itself as the source of the problem.
When a revolver is hard to open, randomly, it is usually not truly a "random" event. You will typically find one cylinder position where it will always be difficult and on the others it will open smoothly. Try to isolate which one it is by marking one of the chambers with something non-permanent. Line that chamber up with the bore and open the cylinder, repeat several times. Do this for each of the other five cylinders. If you find that binding is present only in one position, your problem is probably that the tip of the ejector rod is not "square" and the high side is binding behind the locking bolt (the spring-loaded part atached to the barrel).
Some very light strokes with a good file should take care of this.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top