Question on using windex to clean corrosive ammo
- Thread starter foob
- Start date
- Status
Sunray
Member
Plain hot water will do.
The Deer Hunter
Member
yea, that could be a problem^
Ohen Cepel
Member
I've always pumped it down the hot barrel. Have never seen any stock discoloration. I think it works great, convienent and easy.
Be careful if the barrel is hot though! It can bubble back into your face! I did have that happen.
Be careful if the barrel is hot though! It can bubble back into your face! I did have that happen.
El Tejon
Member
foob, pick up a bottle of Green Magic for your range bag.
Green Magic
Aztec International, Ltd.
P.O. Box 616
Clarkesville, Georgia 30523
(706) 754-8282
My father always used hot coffee for cleaning at the range. Yeah, I know.
Green Magic
Aztec International, Ltd.
P.O. Box 616
Clarkesville, Georgia 30523
(706) 754-8282
My father always used hot coffee for cleaning at the range. Yeah, I know.
Hactcher's Notebook covers the topic of cleaning up after corrosive primers by saying water is sufficient. Many shooters frown on using water but accordiung to the research done ammonia works just as well being chemically similar to water and able to dissolve the salts and opens the pores of the metal to some degree (ever notice the ammonia smell from some bore cleaners). Hot water works better as the heat (as a catalyst) helps to dissolve the salts. Cold water will work as well but you need to work at it longer. This research was done by the Springfield Armory (the Army's not the manufacturer) and the Bureau of Mines.
A lot of people use Windex which is basically ammonia and water. You could carry a spray bottle of water to get the same effect. There is no magic in using Windex.
I follow up with a spray of WD40 to displace the water, wipe that out of the bore, and use a lube to protect it if required.
A lot of people use Windex which is basically ammonia and water. You could carry a spray bottle of water to get the same effect. There is no magic in using Windex.
I follow up with a spray of WD40 to displace the water, wipe that out of the bore, and use a lube to protect it if required.
Kor
Member
I used Windex to ****** out my 1917 Enfield...
...the bore was and still is fine, but some Windex ran onto the stock and stripped the oil finish off(just a small run, though). The key is to either soak a patch in Windex and run the patch through the bore on a rod, or to simply avoid flooding the action with too much Windex. Any spots/streaks/runs on your stock can be touched up with either wood stain or wood finishing oil like tung oil or BLO(boiled linseed oil).
...the bore was and still is fine, but some Windex ran onto the stock and stripped the oil finish off(just a small run, though). The key is to either soak a patch in Windex and run the patch through the bore on a rod, or to simply avoid flooding the action with too much Windex. Any spots/streaks/runs on your stock can be touched up with either wood stain or wood finishing oil like tung oil or BLO(boiled linseed oil).
nwilliams
Member
I wouldn't worry about it, I've never noticed any problems.
I had a problem with windex affecting the finish on a rifle once. Happened when I didn't notice a dribble on the stock grip and the next day the damage had been done. Not a big deal to fix but... it can happen. Kind of turned me against Windex after that.
I had done some research on corrosive ammunition recently, and what makes it corrosive.
This article claims the main problem to be from Potassium Chlorate (which will convert via a chemical process to Potassium Chloride):
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQY/is_12_52/ai_n16808611
Now I am not sure if the salt, or one of the salts, is the Potassium Chloride, but I would believe it to be one of the ones produced. Now most salts are water soluble, ammonia on the other hand has the formula NH3, but one must remember that the windex we see on the shelves is NH3 mixed with water. The point is, water can be act as an agent that is almost like cleaning off the surface, where as water does the main heart of the problem. Really I think some hot water with a tad bit of soap works just as well, remember its the water that the salt is soluble in, well this salt in this case.
So I would just put some hot water down the barrel, however I would say that it does not have to be right then, but instead can be done within a few hours. Then a normal cleaning will do it well.
This article claims the main problem to be from Potassium Chlorate (which will convert via a chemical process to Potassium Chloride):
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQY/is_12_52/ai_n16808611
Now I am not sure if the salt, or one of the salts, is the Potassium Chloride, but I would believe it to be one of the ones produced. Now most salts are water soluble, ammonia on the other hand has the formula NH3, but one must remember that the windex we see on the shelves is NH3 mixed with water. The point is, water can be act as an agent that is almost like cleaning off the surface, where as water does the main heart of the problem. Really I think some hot water with a tad bit of soap works just as well, remember its the water that the salt is soluble in, well this salt in this case.
So I would just put some hot water down the barrel, however I would say that it does not have to be right then, but instead can be done within a few hours. Then a normal cleaning will do it well.
silverlance
Member
I put the windex in a little spray bottle and just pump about 9 - 12 sprays straight down the bore with the magazine assembly and bolt removed (this is a mosin nagant m39). the muzzle rests stright downward in a cardboard box with a bunch of rags in it that i keep in the yard. after about 30 seconds i lift up the m39 and all the windex runs out black and blue.
i shake it dry, then carry it into the house where i invert the cradle (so that the muzzle points down instead of up) and run several more windex patches through follwoed by dry patch. then i use CLP after a few mintues of drying time.
I dont want to use wd40 because i want to use as few chemicals as possible. windex is pretty good old stuff so im not too worried about it. even so i try not to inhale too many fumes, esp with the CLP.
as long as you dont splash stuff everywhere your stock will be fine. that's true whether you use windex, clp, sweets, etc.
i shake it dry, then carry it into the house where i invert the cradle (so that the muzzle points down instead of up) and run several more windex patches through follwoed by dry patch. then i use CLP after a few mintues of drying time.
I dont want to use wd40 because i want to use as few chemicals as possible. windex is pretty good old stuff so im not too worried about it. even so i try not to inhale too many fumes, esp with the CLP.
as long as you dont splash stuff everywhere your stock will be fine. that's true whether you use windex, clp, sweets, etc.
DMK
Member
Just put a few drops of dish soap in a spray bottle, fill with water. Same thing. Use it while the barrel is still warm.
I like the thermos idea. Hot water would be better. But I use cold Windex type window cleaner all the time without any problems.
BTW: You can buy generic windows cleaner without the ammonia. It's soapy water that flushes out the salts, not the ammonia.
I like the thermos idea. Hot water would be better. But I use cold Windex type window cleaner all the time without any problems.
BTW: You can buy generic windows cleaner without the ammonia. It's soapy water that flushes out the salts, not the ammonia.
critter
Member
I have a little plastic squeeze bottle with a spout & cap that I fill with el-cheapo winshield washer fluid-bought at WM-the cheapest you can find. Take it to the range when I shoot mislurps with corrosive ammo.
When I get ready to finish, I fire a few rounds rather quickly and while the barrel is HOT, I remove the bolt and flush the bore with the WWF. It dries quite quickly due to the alcohol content. You can also wipe off the bolt head and any other action parts that MAY have come in contact with the gases from the ammo using a paper towel wet with the WWF.
Then when I get home, I clean as I would any other rifle. Worked 100% for me for many years.
When I get ready to finish, I fire a few rounds rather quickly and while the barrel is HOT, I remove the bolt and flush the bore with the WWF. It dries quite quickly due to the alcohol content. You can also wipe off the bolt head and any other action parts that MAY have come in contact with the gases from the ammo using a paper towel wet with the WWF.
Then when I get home, I clean as I would any other rifle. Worked 100% for me for many years.
Windex does an excellent job of cleaning up corrosive salts, but I have had it take some of the finish off one of my Mosin Nagants. Since the finish wasn't that pretty to begin with on that rifle, I'm not worried about it. It doesn't take that long to remove the stock from a MN before cleaning if you're worried about it.
jm
jm
MilsurpShooter
Member
If you're worried about the stock you could always use the method I use on my M48
Find something that can easily plug both sides of the barrel, Ear plugs have worked rather well. I'm about 20 minutes from the closest range so when I'm done I spay the barrely with some Outers Foaming bore cleaner. I plug up both ends for the drive home. Get home, tilt the rifle, pull the plug, and clean as normal
Find something that can easily plug both sides of the barrel, Ear plugs have worked rather well. I'm about 20 minutes from the closest range so when I'm done I spay the barrely with some Outers Foaming bore cleaner. I plug up both ends for the drive home. Get home, tilt the rifle, pull the plug, and clean as normal
Average Joe
Member
Just use hot water, do it when you get home. My range is an hour away from home, not like its gonna corrode in a couple of hours, just don't let it sit overnight.
kart racer
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2004
- Messages
- 482
I use windex,but you can get the gi stuff in a bottle for $1.00-3.00 at gunshows that will remove the corrosive salts.
- Status
