Question regarding cocked action on side-by-side hammerless shotgun

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Gary A

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On a modern but inexpensive side-by-side like a Stoeger or Remington Spartan/Baikal, coil springs are used. Many people store the guns with the action released either using snapcaps or simply dry-firing on an empty chamber in order to release spring tension on the firing mechanism. Other people either don’t drop the hammers or simply keep the shotgun loaded for home defense and don’t worry about spring tension. The Russian version of the owner’s manual for the Baikal says that while one should not dry-fire the weapon unless using spent shells or snapcaps, that it is a good idea to drop the (internal) hammers when storing the gun to prevent “slackening of the springs”.

Once, I had a Stoeger Silverado coach gun for a while and decided to trade it off on something. I had stored it with hammer down on a couple of snapcaps. I bagged it and took it to the shop. At the shop, I disassembled the gun, knowing it was unloaded therefore not opening the action first. When we tried to re-assemble the gun, to my surprise and shock, it was nearly impossible because the released cocking levers would not allow the forearm to be replaced onto the barrels until the action was cocked which was nearly impossible to do with the forearm not attached to the barrels. Fortunately I was in a gun shop and we corrected the problem but it was a lesson for me and I got to thinking and have tried to research the subject on gun forums with little success. I do remember reading a post somewhere (that I can no longer find) from a gunsmith discussing this issue where he recommended people take a disassembled, uncocked double to a gunsmith for fear they would bugger up the gun trying to re-assemble it. (I can believe it after my experience.)

Recently I purchased a Remington Spartan hammerless coach gun. It strikes me that when the gun is received new, in three pieces, the action is already cocked. If one follows the directions of disassembly, the first directive is to make sure the gun is unloaded by opening it, thereby cocking it. Secondly, one is told to remove the forearm, etc. Nothing is said about dropping the hammers anywhere in the process. Following these directions, every time the gun is stored disassembled, would it not be stored with the action cocked? If that is so, why should there be any concern about storing an assembled shotgun with the action cocked, loaded or no? Using coil springs, this should be no problem in spite of the fact the owner’s manual suggests dropping the hammer to prevent “slackening of the springs”.

Am I missing something? Is there a way of safely dropping the hammers on a disassembled gun. If so, is there a proper method of reassembling a gun with dropped hammers when the cocking levers prevent easy re-attachment of the forearm?

Sorry for the long post and I hope I have phrased the question understandably. I would appreciate any information someone could give me on this.
 
Spring engineers tell us that a quality spring will lose a small amount of length/strength in the first few uses; after that it's repeated use that slowly degrades it, no problem with being stored in a compressed condition.

By that logic, the people who "rotate" mags in an autopistol so they can occasionally "rest", are wearing out their springs slightly faster than those who just load it up and leave it sit. I had four batches of mags for my Browning Hi Power: one set had been used a few times and then left unloaded, one set was left loaded continually, one set got "rotated" between loaded & unloaded, one set was used a lot for practice but stored unloaded. After 10 years, the springs all looked the same. On the other hand, I had a couple of Glock 19 mags whose springs went bad after about 2 years loaded. Go figure.

I always dry-fire my guns before putting them away, including my Browning SxS; without snap caps. Mostly this is for safety reasons; if somehow I've left a round in the gun, I want to get the surprise NOW when I'm ready for it, not some day later.

The issue of firing pins breaking from dry firing seems to get a lot of attention on doubles. I'm not sure if this is because older doubles had fragile firing pins, or there is something about SxS design being hard on the firing pins, or just an old wives tale. I'm hoping to be educated here...
 
All Glock mags are over-compressed when fully loaded, or nearly so.

Browning designed the HP mags so as not to over-compress the springs, ever.

Course they only hold 13 vis the Glock's 15!
Those extra two rounds cost you a lot of spring life.

rcmodel
 
I agree on the comments about the compressed springs and am not particularly concerned about spring fatigue but am trying to sort out the reality of the spring condition in a disassembled side-by-side as opposed to dropping the hammers on a stored assembled gun. If disassembling the gun results in a de facto cocking of the hammers (cocked when checking to see that gun is unloaded), why then worry about the state of the hammers while the gun is assembled? I could only with great difficulty (and perhaps some risk of damage) reassemble my Stoeger after disassembly with the hammers down because the forearm would not slip into place with the cocking levers set to be recocked. I am loathe to test the situation again with my new coach gun and am trying to research rather than experiment. :) This only happened once, either because I did it that way only once, or because I did something different that time. I'm at a loss to know which.
 
I have always stored my shotguns un-cocked.
After removing barrels for cleaning I simply pull the trigger while holding a coin over the firing pin.
After cleaning, re-assemble the barrels, and lastly refit the for-end.
Note this only works on guns that are cocked by the for-end iron.
To use just break action and load, ready to go.

Neil.

Most guns with the cocking iron protruding from the action can be cocked
by pushing the iron against the edge of a wooden bench.
 
I don't understand the question. Why dry fire the shotgun. Why don't you just hold the hammer, press the trigger and let the hammer down slowly like you would any other firearm with an external hammer?
 
Appreciate the replies, fellas. Yeah, the situation I'm talking about was a shotgun with two cocking levers protruding from the lower action which are cocked by the fore-end when opening the gun. Another poster on another forum also mentioned using a wooden bench. I could conceivably decide to drop the hammers when storing dis-assembled, but I suspect I'm going to do what the manufactuers apparently do when they put it in the box for shipping. Check that it's empty, close the action, remove the fore-arm, remove the barrel, and put it away and not worry about it. I'm gonna have to think a bit longer on cocking with a bench. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere, sometime that that would be an easy way to damage the gun but maybe not. Sometimes little things are really a nuisance until they become clear. Thanks for the help.
 
Mystery solved...sorta. Was reading the online owner's manual for the Beretta Silver Hawk (obviously a much finer and more expensive side-by-side). They have a page devoted to suggested method of dropping the hammers for storage. They say, open the gun, insert snap caps, close, fire the gun, remove forearm, open gun, remove snap caps, close gun, re-install forearm. When I tried this on my Baikal, it worked fine. Thinking about it I thought, why not just take the barrel completely off after removing the snap caps. Did that, and found that reassembly of the gun went off without a hitch. So, I no longer have any concerns about the Baikal. No problem storing with hammers down, nor with reassembly after storage of disassembled hammer down shotgun. I still do not know what I did to make the Stoeger act the way it did. Did I do something goofy or is that the way Stoegers are? I just don't know. If I ever buy another Stoeger, I 'll find out.
 
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