I got a real deal on one of these recently, it was a DAO model, which is probably why it went so cheap. So here are a few pics on a DA/SA conversion and detail strip. There is something of a dearth of SIG detail strip info on the web and the usual advice is "buy the video", but I found that unnecessary.
Parts requred for DAO to DA/SA conversion. Decocking lever, bearing, spring and hammer
Pics of decock lever spring in place and trigger bar spring, two items that aren't easily gleaned from the factory diagram.
A shot showing the half moon of the mag catch retainer, just depress the mag catch slightly and push on this to allow release of the mag catch.
Shot of components held by trigger pin-slide catch, trigger, trigger bar
Shot of fire control-ejector, sear and spring, locking plunger lever
The lower parts
1. Check clear so you don't shoot the family pooch, field strip and remove grips.
2. Remove locking block by rotating takedown lever to left as you push lever from the right, lift out locking block-up and forward. Note position of spring on locking block-this spring retains the takedown lever and powers the slide catch.
3. Push out trigger pin, it is locked in place by the locking block, so it comes out easily once the locking block is removed. Lift out slide catch, then lift out trigger and trigger bar, up and forward with some manipulation.
4. Push out sear pin and remove ejector, sear and spring, and firing pin lock lever. This is done more easily if sear spring leg is pushed around roll pin to release tension.
5. Remove decock lever spring, bearing and decock lever if present.
6. Remove hammer strut and spring from seat. Remove hammer pin, hammer and hammer rebound spring.
The old hammer was machined from stock, the new one is MIM-ah well. Note that the hammer rebound spring fits in the hammer on the 239 whereas the other P series carry it in a block below the hammer.
Reassembly is in reverse. The grooves on the trigger pin should be facing down and the "screw head" at 11 o'clock to facilitate easy positioning of the locking block. The extractor is removed like any pivoting type and I left the firing pin and retaining pin alone since the retaining pin is a one time use part and Sig says they are good for 20k rounds.
Enjoying the nice, crisp trigger now.
I hope this is useful to someone.
A P6 dissasembly video:http://www.customizedcreationz.com/disassemblyreassemblysi.html
Parts requred for DAO to DA/SA conversion. Decocking lever, bearing, spring and hammer
Pics of decock lever spring in place and trigger bar spring, two items that aren't easily gleaned from the factory diagram.
A shot showing the half moon of the mag catch retainer, just depress the mag catch slightly and push on this to allow release of the mag catch.
Shot of components held by trigger pin-slide catch, trigger, trigger bar
Shot of fire control-ejector, sear and spring, locking plunger lever
The lower parts
1. Check clear so you don't shoot the family pooch, field strip and remove grips.
2. Remove locking block by rotating takedown lever to left as you push lever from the right, lift out locking block-up and forward. Note position of spring on locking block-this spring retains the takedown lever and powers the slide catch.
3. Push out trigger pin, it is locked in place by the locking block, so it comes out easily once the locking block is removed. Lift out slide catch, then lift out trigger and trigger bar, up and forward with some manipulation.
4. Push out sear pin and remove ejector, sear and spring, and firing pin lock lever. This is done more easily if sear spring leg is pushed around roll pin to release tension.
5. Remove decock lever spring, bearing and decock lever if present.
6. Remove hammer strut and spring from seat. Remove hammer pin, hammer and hammer rebound spring.
The old hammer was machined from stock, the new one is MIM-ah well. Note that the hammer rebound spring fits in the hammer on the 239 whereas the other P series carry it in a block below the hammer.
Reassembly is in reverse. The grooves on the trigger pin should be facing down and the "screw head" at 11 o'clock to facilitate easy positioning of the locking block. The extractor is removed like any pivoting type and I left the firing pin and retaining pin alone since the retaining pin is a one time use part and Sig says they are good for 20k rounds.
Enjoying the nice, crisp trigger now.
I hope this is useful to someone.
A P6 dissasembly video:http://www.customizedcreationz.com/disassemblyreassemblysi.html
