Rattle can camo; need ideas.

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OleBuckshot

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Howdy y’all.

I’m fixing to rattle can a firearm (it’s old and I’m not gonna sell it). The base coat will be tan and I’m going to put leaves, etc. on that then come and spray OD green over that.

What I need though is ideas on how to make the leaves and stuff stick to the firearm so the new coat won’t blow everything off and leave nice and relatively sharp outlines.

Double-sided tape? Chewing gum? lol I dunno but if any of y’all have done this how’d you get your final patterns to stick?

TIA
 
I painted these two out back on a makeshift
workbench I have made of sawhorses and
a scrap of plywood.
I'd already prepped the guns and turned
180 degrees and cut a couple of twigs of
privet and just held the twigs by hand
against the "basecoat" of flat OD green
and sprayed. It works just fine for what
I use them for which is to cut the glare
and help conceal the firearm from the
animal I'm about to shoot at.
JMHO- I wouldn't pay a few hundred dollars
to have somebody cammo one of my
guns or bows. Appeal to the human eye
doesn't interest me
Good Luck
20210827_025704.jpg
 
Quick replies! I love it. Thanks fellas, seriously.

Jarhead127 those are fantastic. You know, believe it or not my wife has some sea sponge somewhere in her crafting supplies and I doubt she’s used it. I know b/c she had me stop at Hobby Lobby when I was in town and get a couple bags with sea sponge in it.
 
Lay the gun on its side and then lay the leaves/other items on top of the gun. If you’re worried about it, instead of just using a pile of leaves, cut a small branch with leaves attached. That way the whole thing is heavier and won’t move. I actually prefer doing that as it gives you some interesting designs especially over the length of the gun.

On my most recent gun, I started off with 2 base coats of tan, did some large/wide stripes of Forrest green (about 2-3” wide, 2-3” apart), then laid some foliage on the gun and repeated the same stripe process with OD green paint, then rearranged the foliage again and did a light dusting with some brown in places that looked a little bright.

I think using multiple colors and multiple coats (with rearranged foliage) is a great way to make sure that you’re really breaking up the outline. And also note that prep is almost as important as the actual painting process. I wound up using a lot more painters tape than I was expecting.
 
OP- look up the Ultralight Arms ( or is it New
Ultralight Arms?) and see what those very
expensive custom rifles come with for a
paint job. Just diagonal stripes

Lawd’a’mercy those are some pricey shooting irons. lol I’m gonna stick with my (very) old Savage 110. Don’t get me wrong I’d love to own one.
 
I painted these two out back on a makeshift
workbench I have made of sawhorses and
a scrap of plywood.
I'd already prepped the guns and turned
180 degrees and cut a couple of twigs of
privet and just held the twigs by hand
against the "basecoat" of flat OD green
and sprayed. It works just fine for what
I use them for which is to cut the glare
and help conceal the firearm from the
animal I'm about to shoot at.
JMHO- I wouldn't pay a few hundred dollars
to have somebody cammo one of my
guns or bows. Appeal to the human eye
doesn't interest me
Good Luck
View attachment 1025709

Ranger99 those look great. I need to do this project on the cheap, and I too don’t give a flip what someone else thinks as long as I get the extra concealment I’m wanting. I’m too old to worry about keeping up with the “latest bestest camouflage Joneses.”
 
Quick replies! I love it. Thanks fellas, seriously.

Jarhead127 those are fantastic. You know, believe it or not my wife has some sea sponge somewhere in her crafting supplies and I doubt she’s used it. I know b/c she had me stop at Hobby Lobby when I was in town and get a couple bags with sea sponge in it.

I should have said, I spray that onto a small board + roll the sponge onto the board then onto the stock. Twist + roll the sponge around so the pattern keeps changing. It was fun to do + when I got it how I wanted, I shot a coat of matte clear over the top.
 
Lay the gun on its side and then lay the leaves/other items on top of the gun. If you’re worried about it, instead of just using a pile of leaves, cut a small branch with leaves attached. That way the whole thing is heavier and won’t move. I actually prefer doing that as it gives you some interesting designs especially over the length of the gun.

On my most recent gun, I started off with 2 base coats of tan, did some large/wide stripes of Forrest green (about 2-3” wide, 2-3” apart), then laid some foliage on the gun and repeated the same stripe process with OD green paint, then rearranged the foliage again and did a light dusting with some brown in places that looked a little bright.

I think using multiple colors and multiple coats (with rearranged foliage) is a great way to make sure that you’re really breaking up the outline. And also note that prep is almost as important as the actual painting process. I wound up using a lot more painters tape than I was expecting.

I very much appreciate the advice.

It’s getting to where that camo paint is pricey so the sooner done the better.
 
I bought some cheap plastic plant sections from a craft store and just held them against the gun as I sprayed it one section at a time.

Ha! You know what, I was just over at Amazon looking at stencils. I could even do that shadow effect like that cat (second or third post above) who painted his boat.

Great minds... (well, mine not so much lol)

/cheers
 
Ha! You know what, I was just over at Amazon looking at stencils. I could even do that shadow effect like that cat (second or third post above) who painted his boat.

Great minds... (well, mine not so much lol)

/cheers

I just went into my back yard with a pair of scissors and cut off a few interesting branches from different trees and bushes to use as stencils.

Technically you could say it’s more likely to match my environment, but more importantly it is unique and zero cost.
 
Ferns, pussywilllows, lace, leaves eaten by caterpillar (got random holes and stuff in them), sections of snow fence….Additionally, using cotton balls or paint sponges (like the ones they use for making patterns in houses) have all been great to me.
 
I LOVE doing my own camo jobs. After the firearm is de-greased and properly taped up, then I apply a base coat of whatever primary color I decide upon. Usually OD green for this area...

IMG_20200407_001451504.jpg

Then, I use local foliage branches to add patterns in different colors. Usually a cedar branch and a leafy branch. I add tan, brown, and black accents in whatever pattern and density looks good to me. My paint jobs usually turn out pretty good...

IMG_20200409_081839649.jpg

My last rifle was my Ruger Predator .308 and I went with some mesh and leaf effects and am very happy with it's pattern...

IMG_20210516_112931959_HDR.jpg
 
SOME WONDERFUL PATTERNS PRESENTED thus far congrats!

Razor knife. Blue Tape. Thin cardboard similar to 12pk pepsi carton. Matte finish clearcoat (e.g. post #11:thumbup:) Oh and yes, paint hehe.

OK, you already have your base color down. Cut whatever pattern out of the cardboard. Let's say a tree limb, and you take the tree limb out and use the outside border portion. Lay it on the item to be painted, tape it down if you think necessary. Paint black or my fav, charcoal:scrutiny:. Allow to dry to touch, this next step is how you get your easy shadow 3D pattern...lay pattern exactly same as B4 but offfset THIS time Up 1'' and (left) or (right) 1'', spray with your lighter final cover. Voila, an item ''standing out'' optically, because, it is casting a shadow. IMHO lesser ''shadow'' on smaller items i.e. gun stock, use 1/4'' offset; more ''shadow'' on larger item such as a hunting boat, say, 2'' offset. Your larger offset is where the LIGHTER shadow color helps, such as charcoal. Unless under a 2,000,000 candlepower spotlight, there is light between the item and the ground, and that shadow won't be viewed as hard black/hard line as if it was closer.

Speaking of boats, I launched for 3 years before the one fellow camping by the launch asked, he thought the pattern was factory even to comment ''you need to paint boats!''

GOOD LUCK , wear a mask (your neighbors will think, ''Covid :confused:nut'' LoL) and post some pics ESPECIALLY if any runs haha
 
Last edited:
SOME WONDERFUL PATTERNS PRESENTED thus far congrats!

Razor knife. Blue Tape. Thin cardboard similar to 12pk pepsi carton. Matte finish clearcoat (e.g. post #11:thumbup:) Oh and yes, paint hehe.

OK, you already have your base color down. Cut whatever pattern out of the cardboard. Let's say a tree limb, and you take the tree limb out and use the outside border portion. Lay it on the item to be painted, tape it down if you think necessary. Paint black or my fav, charcoal:scrutiny:. Allow to dry to touch, this next step is how you get your easy shadow 3D pattern...lay pattern exactly same as B4 but offfset THIS time Up 1'' and (left) or (right) 1'', spray with your lighter final cover. Voila, an item ''standing out'' optically, because, it is casting a shadow. IMHO lesser ''shadow'' on smaller items i.e. gun stock, use 1/4'' offset; more ''shadow'' on larger item such as a hunting boat, say, 2'' offset. Your larger offset is where the LIGHTER shadow color helps, such as charcoal. Unless under a 2,000,000 candlepower spotlight, there is light between the item and the ground, and that shadow won't be viewed as hard black/hard line as if it was closer.

Speaking of boats, I launched for 3 years before the one fellow camping by the launch asked, he thought the pattern was factory even to comment ''you need to paint boats!''

GOOD LUCK , wear a mask (your neighbors will think, ''Covid :confused:nut'' LoL) and post some pics ESPECIALLY if any runs haha

DoubleMag, you are the man! Thank you (and everyone) for helping me with advice. Next week I’m gonna practice on some cardboard until I get my “mad skills” down lol.

A man has gotta have skills:
 
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