Rattle can camo; need ideas.

[Tirod]

Foliage overlays aren't required, tho I know many prefer it. When I painted my 6.8 SPC it got auto body flat color matched to the stock with matte clear over it. Now, as the paint is moving thru it's tenth year, the matte has aged, the high spots are wearing back thru to black, and it's picking up a wear patina which is adding highlights. Since the Foliage Green polymer parts almost never match it's got different shades on them, too.

One thing I will do on the next project is use adhesion promotion spray to get a better grip on the anodizing. I've used in now on some truck body parts and it's pretty good at sticking paint to polymer, too, which is it's intended design purpose. It's a minor case of painting an AR grip - there is no FG on the market now - so it should help with keeping it wearing less.

 

[trackskippy]

If youre really looking for a functional camo job, you want to spray the base coat in the more or less lightest color, and then dont get to busy with whatever you do with the rest. The busier you get, the less effective it will likely be.

A good example of what you want is jarhead127's 10-22 above.

If youre trying to match a specific pattern, then you might need to get more involved and take more pains.

The whole idea is to break up the outline of the gun. A pattern that does that, is more effective than one thats all fancy and tends to blob.

I used to take things apart, and do pieces separately, and came to realize, it was just easier to leave the gun together, mask of anything I didnt want painted, and spray the whole gun in the base color, and then once it was dry, starting next darkest down to the lightest, do each color separately.

New paint jobs look great, but they also get better with age as they get beat up a little.

 

[Speedo66]

A hint for painting metal or anodized parts is rattle can SEM Trim Black.

Flat black paint designed to stick even on chrome or stainless auto trim.