RCBS Case Activated Linkage Kit?

[loose noose]

Just recently received my new linkage kit from Optic Planet. I have a much older Uniflow powder measure and one that is about 10 years or so old. First I tried the older one and could not get the powder measure to operate correctly. So next I tried my newer one, and that came a lot closer to functioning properly however I noticed that the powder measure does not go all the way up/or down, and I don't believe it is designed to, (linkage kit) is it possible I got a bad kit? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Are my Uniflow powder measures too old or what? Up until now they functioned perfectly.

 

[Otto]

My Pro 2000 powder measure doesn't go completely up either but the powder drops are complete never the less. You can try using the Spacer Bushing included with the measure...part # 788936 for reference.

 

[loose noose]

Thanks otto, I'll have to try that, but I'm not sure the little adjustable cup like thing in the powder measure will be able to fill up with powder though. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone aware of any you tube in regards to getting this blasted thing working correctly. I'm beginning to think I should have left the old set up on my Piggyback II?

It appears that the 2 screws on the upper unit by the powder bushing, are keeping the levers from moving freely. Especially when I tighten the screws down, they are obviously rubbing together.

 

[loose noose]

The problem I'm having is getting the linkage to work smoothly, it looks like the top screw on the cylinder link upper portion, is rubbing on the linkage. I've checked out all the links and they all appear to be straight. It only happens when I tighten the 2 screws on the top bracket. Does any of this make sense? I thought I followed the instructions fairly accurately.

 

[cfullgraf]

You should be able to adjust the position of the bracket on the powder measure along with the appropriate choice of drop tube and get a full stroke of the powder measure.

Generally, I put a case in the press at the powder measure and raise it. I adjust the powder measure and the die so that the powder measure is at full stroke. If the shell plate interferes with the die, a different drop tube is necessary. RCBS provides spacers that can be used to extend a short drop tube.

I set mine so that it just misses bottoming at the top of the stroke, but then I do not expand the case mouth with the powder measure.

I use a dry lubricant to aid in the operation of the powder measure. I spray it on the drum and drop tubes. Make sure you let the carrier flash off before you ad powder to the measure or else you will have a mess on your hands. Currently, I am using Remington Dri-Lube because I had it on hand. Dry graphite lock lubricant would work as well.

Hope this helps.

 

[loose noose]

cfull, I do appreciate the help but the linkage is binding up, and I believe the problem is with the one screw that is attached to the drum. I plan on contacting RCBS come Monday morning and see if we can figure out the problem.

 

[BYJO4]

Calling RCBS is the way to go. They can tell you exactly what you need to do or if their is a defect in your new linkage kit.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

I had to take a close look at mine and take a trip down memory lane, which is now filled with potholes.

I had the same problem and it took a while to get it working decently. The design is poor, so any small problem is compounded.

The major problem was with the notch in the rotor arm. It is a stamped part, including the rectangular cutout. If the die wasn't sharp, the cutout needs smoothed. I carefully filed the long sides of the cutout until the surfaces were smooth and square. Then debur the cutout, all of the linkage pivot holes and the edges of the linkage the rub against each other.

Then assemble the mechanism, leaving all of the fasteners slightly loose, including the clamps holding the mechanism to the drop tubes. Then start working the linkage until everything is aligned and working. Then snug down the fasteners a bit at a time, working the linkage. Do not over-tighten the screws.

Lube - Lubrication won't solve the problems, but will slow down part wear. After a few reloading sessions I applied a touch of lithium grease inside the rectangular cutout, nowhere else.

If that fails to make your drop work, call and ask for Shane, I hear he's waiting for you.

 

[loose noose]

Thank you Jesse, but like I stated earlier it appears the linkage itself is binding up because of the position of the screw heads on the linkages, the one on the drum and the one on the horizontal link.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

You have to fiddle with the position of the links, the mount points and everything to get the arms so they run smooth and don't pinch or run out of travel during the stroke. Kind of putzy but it only has to be done once.

Those little inserts and expanders have been quite useful over the years. I kept them in a little box of spare parts and have a nice collection of them from various upgrades. Make sure you keep them all.

 

[loose noose]

Talked to RCBS again and had I believe it was "Shane" although he didn't identify himself, and was about as helpful as a rubber crutch. I then talked to a young lady that tried to be helpful, and decided to send me a new link and a link pin, that I received today. Re-installed however to no avail. Reckon I should have left the original set up alone. Incidentally I am mechanically inclined, however I fail to see how this set up will work with the linkage binding up. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[GW Staar]

RCBS instructions aren't known for their clarity, but this really is pretty simple IF.......you keep the two vertical bars in the linkage parallel.....or close to it.

At the bottom of the stroke (mic down) they will be about 1/16" apart.

At the top of the stroke (mic up) they will be closer to 1/8" apart, but still parallel.

That means the distance between the upper and lower clamps will be somewhere like 1.4" apart.

Things start binding up when those verticals aren't parallel or they aren't in the same plane. Plane? I mean both top and bottom (powder measure & powder die) are rotated to the same place. straight edge across the verticals if you aren't sure. (this only counts when the outside vertical is connected to the lower clamp)

Leave the spring off to set the linkage...makes it easier to adjust. Start with the top clamp tightened an 1/8" or so below the start of the p.m. threads.....but that ain't in stone. Depends on the p.m. For example from under the cylinder castings chin to the beginning of threads varies on my 3 measures 1/8"! So you can't go by RCBS's pictures. Start with picture #2, or about 1/8" below or the 2 threads they spec in instruction #3.

Once that's clamped go by parallel verticals and set the bottom clamp. Don't clamp the lower at first, but work the linkage moving the mic up and down by hand and watch it work first....should go up and down freely. Try clamping the lower with the mic all the way up minus a 1/16 and the verticals parallel. Once set pay attention to the linkage "plane" no twist is allowed or you bind.

Hope this helps.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

GW (as usual) gives some great instructions. Try his out and then tell us where it is binding?

Early, middle, end and under what conditions?

 

[cfullgraf]

A thought just came to mind, could the pivots on the linkage be to tight?

If the pivots are too tight, any small mis-alignment in the measure/drop die will cause some binding.

Also, the return spring needs to be vertical. If it is not, it will pull the measure to one side.

Sorry if I am stating the obvious.

 

[loose noose]

GW, thanks a lot, I'll try that as soon as I can find time, I've been busier than a one armed paper hanger, assembling lower AR units as well as the uppers, and just general firearm repair, and firearms classes.

The problem is the one screw head on the slotted drum drive, rubs against the nut on the shorter linkage, if that makes any sense. Any way I'm going to try GW's method here before too long. BTW the linkage works fine until I place the clamp on the upper portion of the powder measure.

 

[GW Staar]

GW, thanks a lot, I'll try that as soon as I can find time, I've been busier than a one armed paper hanger, assembling lower AR units as well as the uppers, and just general firearm repair, and firearms classes.

The problem is the one screw head on the slotted drum drive, rubs against the nut on the shorter linkage, if that makes any sense. Any way I'm going to try GW's method here before too long. BTW the linkage works fine until I place the clamp on the upper portion of the powder measure.

OH!!! That little problem is because you are using the wrong holes in the drum. There are three. The middle one you obviously have to use. Of the other two ... one will get in the way of the linkage and the other is the right one. I've done that a few times.....and sure enough....don't work that way.

The linkage limits the way the Uniflow is used...you may be used to (and prefer even) to have the powder cavity empty at rest and work the measure to fill it. Using the linkage, you have to rest the cavity full....unfortunately.

That means it is imperative that you always work a few test charges then use the measure for real after the compacted at rest charge is dumped.

There is a way around it if you counter-sink the interfering hole in the Drum lever and replace the bolt with a flat head counter-sunk flush.

What's amazing is ... all of us missed the real problem ... and it was there in your second post..........sorry.

 

[loose noose]

Below are a few photos of what I'm up against I tried using the other screw holes in the drum, however the slot wasn't long enough to even get the pin in the slot. Hopefully GW will be able to tell me what's wrong.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

Your uniflow is backwards.

Take the uniflow apart, take your measure screw out of it, slide the drum out and then slide it in the other side.

You have to change the "fat" side of the uniflow to the opposite direction.

Try that and see if it works.

 

[GW Staar]

Yes, turn your P.M. around 180 degrees.....metering screw should face the front.....so pull your drum out and reverse it.

Pete's a faster typer than me.

So, Pete, you're not shooting today......here in New Mexico it's too damned windy.....I've had a new Ruger 556 to try out (three weeks) and cannot find a decent day with no wind.....so here I sit....helping out. Good thing I have a computer....I'd be crawling up the walls.

I think we got Loose Noose fixed up this time! Pictures! The best communication!

 

[loose noose]

Well thank you Peter and GW, I reversed the drum and viola, the thing works as advertised; right after supper I'm going to reload a couple hundred 9mm. It sure does run smooth. Again I want to thank you folks for coming to my rescue. BTW both of my Uniflow Powder Measures had it on the wrong side for attaching the case detector kit.

 

[GW Staar]

You're welcome....anytime! Glad we could help.

 

[loose noose]

Again I thank Peter and GW, for all their assistance in getting set up. I reloaded 200 rounds of 9mm last night and noted that all my loads were right at the weight I initially set. In fact the first 50 rounds I measured the charge in each and every shell, but after that, it went really smooth and I finished the last 150 rounds in little over an hour.

Now I wish I would have had one of those years ago, no powder mess or stoppage of any kind. Too bad RCBS can't give better directions like advising you to change the drum around to the other side, the other directions were really simple.

 

[GW Staar]

I love happy endings.....Piggyback has a new lease on life! Yes, the case activated linkage is way superior to the old one. Thankfully the conversion is simple......well unless you can't read minds and turn the p.m. backwards.....imagine that....loose noose can't read minds. Happy Easter!