RCBS Decapping Dies Questions

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d31tc

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First, I bought 2 decapping dies from RCBS. One was stated to be for .22 to .25 caliber and the other for .27 to .45 caliber. So, I was using the .27 to .45 for the very first time to decap 9mm Luger cases and on the first case the pull hit hard. I stopped and didn't force it, but I heard a pop. Took the die out and the pin kind of wiggles back and forth and moves up and down. Went to the closest sporting goods store to buy replacement pins and there were three types for RCBS. Having not brought the die along, and not knowing which were the right ones, I bought all three so I couldn't go wrong. Got home and tried to remove the pin on the die - holy hell, how hard do I have to clamp and torque it to get it undone? Not wanting to eff it up further, I thought I'd just try using the .22 to .25 die. It worked fine.

So questions:

1. It seems the .22 to .25 die would work just fine on all cases. Why would I need one for .27 to .45?
2. I didn't notice the pin moving before I started on the .27 to .45, but maybe it did. Is it supposed to move or did I break it?
3. I noticed the pin on the .27 to .45 is not concentric in the die. Maybe that is why it hit hard?
4. How in holy hell do you remove a decapping pin? I used a couple pieces of leather and squished the mandrel in a vise and squished some more leather around the mandrel with a vise grip and started torquing but stopped when I thought I might make things worse. Righty tighty, lefty loosey - correct?
 
I use the .22-.25 cal for 9mm. That is the smallest caliber it should handle. I noticed that the pin was not centered in the die once and then realized that the lock nut had loosened. That allowed the pin to move around a bit. I tightened it back up and the pin centered again.
 
The larger one has a small spring pushing down on the pin. It keeps the primers from sticking. The problem is the spring they use is too weak and fails miserably. The spring takes a set from being over loaded, coil bind. RCBS will send you a replacement assembly if you call CS. My fix was to put a stronger spring in. The one I used was from AR spring collection that I cut to length. I think that where found it, for I have a lot of gun parts to sort through.

I ended up putting mine is vice using a pair of pliers to get it to come loose.
 
4. How in holy hell do you remove a decapping pin? I used a couple pieces of leather and squished the mandrel in a vise and squished some more leather around the mandrel with a vise grip and started torquing but stopped when I thought I might make things worse. Righty tighty, lefty loosey - correct?

Unscrew it from the bottom, not the top.
 
The dies I have for all the cartridges I reload came with a decapping die; no issues using them for that for over 35 years............
 
The larger one has a small spring pushing down on the pin. It keeps the primers from sticking. The problem is the spring they use is too weak and fails miserably. The spring takes a set from being over loaded, coil bind. RCBS will send you a replacement assembly if you call CS. My fix was to put a stronger spring in. The one I used was from AR spring collection that I cut to length. I think that where found it, for I have a lot of gun parts to sort through.

I ended up putting mine is vice using a pair of pliers to get it to come loose.

I think above is my answer. I'll give RCBS a call. I had the nut down tight and it definitely is off center based on my caliper.

When trying to remove I had the rod in a vise and vise grip on the black knurled part. "Scotty, I need more power!" Time to crank on it. Threads look lefty loosey.

I think this is my answer. IMG_4009.jpg
 
I don't usually remember to do it this way - but, technically I think you're not supposed to lock the de-capping die tight, until after you have punched out the first primer, and then you know it is centered and tighten the die down.

RCBS is pretty good. I asked them a question once, and they just mailed me some components I didn't ask for and they didn't want me to pay for them when I offered.
 
I don't usually remember to do it this way - but, technically I think you're not supposed to lock the de-capping die tight, until after you have punched out the first primer, and then you know it is centered and tighten the die down.

I had not seen this from RCBS but a pretty good piece of information. I've found my RCBW decapping pins off center and it is easy to get them centered, but decapping a case or two then tightening the lock nut is a good idea.
 
Follow up. Cranked a little harder on the decapping pin cap with the rod in the vise and got it off. The spring was messed up (coil bind and set), but nothing else seems bent. Not sure if the spring was messed up before or after the one case I tried to decap. I thought I worked the lever slow and moderately careful. Checked the alignment of the decapping rod (was checking the pin before), and the rod is centered fairly close (off by about 1/32"). I think the concept of locking it tight after punching out the first primer and while it's centered is a good idea. Just need to get past the first primer :(.
 
The spring is too weak to handle crimped primers, I know for a fact or missing the hole. You have a couple of options while your waiting on parts to arrive. Find something solid to replace the spring with or find a heavier duty spring. I need to find out what spring I cut down that has worked flawless now for many years.
 
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