Re: 9mm only has primer no charge

[ADAMH]

Hi Guys,

I am brand new to reloading, was doing a batch last night of 9mm, 124gr with 5.8gr of HS-6

anyway I had to take the powder charge out of one of the cases and then i accidentally put the bullet into it, so it just has a primer.

my question...does the primer have enough force to move the bullet into the barrel when its in my gun when fired?

basically do I have to worry about this round placing a bullet into the barrel that will cause me problems, or will it just make a small pop and stay together?

I have isolated the batch with the missing charge

please advise
Thanks
Adam

 

[jmorris]

What you made is called a squib. The primer has enough power to drive the bullet into the barrel, how far depends on the bullet and primer. Removing a stuck bullet will take a (brass) rod and hammer. Worst case would be the primer pushes the bullet far enough down the barrel that you eject the case and chamber another round. The results vary on this one but all of them are quite bad.


If your not sure pull them apart and load them back up.

 

[wr400]

Bet if you weigh each one you will find the emty bullet!
be better than finding it the other way!!!

 

[ADAMH]

thanks guys.... will take them all apart

I tried weighing them..the variance between bullets is to great to be able to weigh it for the loss of powder

 

[Snowbandit]

The bullet will probably move enough to engage the lands in your barrel but likely won't be stuck too tight. As it will still be partially held by the case it may come out easily when you eject. In any event, there won't enough force generated to cycle the action and the gun is going to stop working when that round is fired. If it were me I would shoot slowly (bullseye) through the group you have isolated and inspect carefully any weak sounding shot. Carry a range rod with you in case you have to knock the stuck bullet out.

 

[jmorris]

Mixed brass varies by more than the charge you are using, pulling them is the way to go. Also give you plenty of time to think about how to avoid having to pull bullets in the future.

Welcome to THR.

 

[Rule3]

Absolutely you need to break them down.

As others stated, it's a squib. If you are firing and the bullet gets stuck in the barrel and you follow up with another shot, that's how Kabooms occur!

 

[ADAMH]

yeah I am trying to get a system set up, and I am still adjusting the bullet seating die alot, so I had to pull a bullet out and then that case was accidentally left with the no charge....oops

 

[ADAMH]

as a test I made a case with just a primer and no bullet, and fired it in my 92f

it made a small pop and could not even cycle the gun..

I will still take apart the bullets however..there are only 25 or so

 

[gamestalker]

This is a good time to set fail safe steps that will prevent making the same error again. Squibs and double charged cases are probably the most common cause for disasterous results with reloader's. Because reloading often involves working with 50 or more cases at one time, missing one or double charging one, or more, is a matter of when rather than if. It's for this reason that visually inspecting every cases prior to seating the bullets is absolutely necessary, no matter how many years a reloader has been in the hobby. I prefer to use a good light source, and work across each row in the loading tray, this helps to eliminate an error in this stage as well.
Good job realizing your error.

 

[kingmt]

The action would not cycle without the bullet to create the pressure to move slide. Even with the bullet a primer can't move the slide enough to rechamber another round in the chamber. If you shoot them it would be a great training round to see if your flinching. Take a range rod.

 

[1SOW]

AdamH,
I think you said you were working with a single stage press.
If that's true, then let's say your loading 20 rds (for a test).
First Size, deprime and re-prime all 20 putting them in a box as you finish each of them. All 20 are done and in the box. A new primer is in all 20.

Next, Flare the case mouth and load them. Put each of them in the box when the powder is loaded. After #20, they are all in the box and you can SEE the powder. They all look to have the same amount of powder. (Any powder weighing can be done during this step)

Next, seat the bullet and crimp the flared case mouth. Put each into the box as you finish it. (Any oal measuring can be done in this step)

You've now loaded 20 rnds. You SAW each had a primer and each had powder in the case. Don't break your rhythm until all 20 are complete in any given step. Make any corrections before you start the next step in the process.

This should prevent any squibs from happening.

 

[Sport45]

I will still take apart the bullets however..there are only 25 or so

For one in 25 I'd pull them until I found the squib. (It'll probably be number 24 or 25. )

If I had a bunch that might have a squib mixed in, I'd just be sure I had a brass rod and wooden or rubber mallet in my range bag. No rapid fire shooting until you know you can trust your ammo.

 

[wally]

The bullet will probably move enough to engage the lands in your barrel but likely won't be stuck too tight. As it will still be partially held by the case it may come out easily when you eject. In any event, there won't enough force generated to cycle the action and the gun is going to stop working when that round is fired. If it were me I would shoot slowly (bullseye) through the group you have isolated and inspect carefully any weak sounding shot. Carry a range rod with you in case you have to knock the stuck bullet out.

I when this route the one time I ran my powder measure dry. Only had one that had enough powder to get the bullet down the bore far enough to not remove easily but not come out the end. Have a close to bore diameter brass rod and hammer at the ready.

I've never had much patience with bullet pullers.

Its not the best option for a revolver, as usually a primer only squib will prevent the cylinder from revolving or opening and the empty case makes it hard to drive most bullets back far enough to open the cylinder.

 

[jerryv]

dont find it the way i did. $$$

 

[noylj]

I'll bet that if you weigh them you will NOT be able to detect the squib.
Been there, done that, have the t-shirt.
PS: what is an "empty bullet"?

 

[rfwobbly]

• I agree with above. The safest way to reload is to do everything in batches. Size 50 brass, then prime all 50 brass, then powder all 50 brass... and so on.

• To help you in the above, there's a guy on the "Buy & Sell - Reloading" forum here on THR that will make you up a 60 round wooden loading block. A loading block helps keep you cases upright and from spilling powder. The 60 hole version lets you segregate the finished from the unfinished. That would be a tremendous help in reloading and organization.

• If you are just working up a new bullet and getting the dies set, then you want to work with 4 or 5 "test cartridges" that have no powder and no primer because often these are run through your gun to see how they fit. You absolutely DON'T what to do this with live ammo. Then when things are set, use a kinetic hammer to unseat the bullets and load them for real.

 

[Galil5.56]

Primer only; it's not even CLOSE to enough power to eject the bullet out of the barrel, cast or jacketed in my experience. Might just get the bullet lodged into leade, maybe a bit more at best.

I "worked up" the minimum amount of Bullseye needed to have a 125 grain cast bullet clear my Beretta, and it was right at .7/.8 grains. Bullet was caught in a wadded up rag, and the impact was extremely mild. Primer only was not even close to getting a cast bullet ejected from my 9mm Makarov CZ82 either.

 

[beatledog7]

I always reload in batches of 50 or fewer on a single stage press. Typical loading block holds 50 for a reason, and I'm in no hurry. And I agree, brass deviates in weight as much as the powder charge would weigh, even same manufacturer. You won't find the squib by weighing them. Pull them all.