Reblue end of the barrel and crown?

[Quizcat]

I cut off the end of the barrel on one of my rifles, leveled it, and recrowned it. I highly polished the end of the barrel, and the new crown. I'm looking for a good finish to apply to the end of the barrel, but the "easy" blueing products don't seem to be very durable, and many of the reviews seem to indicate that they often wear off, even when sitting in the safe, unfired.

I've checked out things like Perma Blue, Super Perma Blue, OXPHO-Blue, Formula 44-40, and while they're easy, I worry about their durability, since this will be protecting the end of the barrel, and the abuse sustained there from firing the rifle is likely to deteriorate whatever of the "easy" reblueing products I might put on there. Plus this is on a black rifle, and these reblueing products are blue rather than black. Color doesn't really matter much I guess, as I'm going to be threading the end of the barrel for a muzzle break. So, the end of the barrel, and crown won't be visible unless you're looking into the bore.

I've also looked into Express Blue, and while there are a few more steps to follow, it's still pretty easy to use, and it has the best series of reviews. But, I'm not sure it would protect the end the barrel/crown, versus being adequate for just reblueing the parts of a firearm that aren't subjected to high temperatures, carbon, pressures, etc...

Any alternarive suggestions for finishes that will protect the end of the barrel/crown? I do like "easy," but not sure which other "easy" types of finishes to consider, if there are any.

 

[BBBBill]

Bluing offers little protection under the best circumstances and firing the gun with the associated cleaning will wear any bluing, factory or touch up. You say you highly polished it. That will protect it better than any bluing in my experience. On one of my 1911 Commander pistols I cut a roll over notch at the back of the ejection port. Just for giggles instead of bluing I just polished it bright as a mirror. That was over 40 years ago and still no sign of rust.

 

[Kp321]

Oxpho Blue Creme has proved to be the most durable when properly applied, in my experience. The metal must be degreased thoroughly and warmed slightly for best application. Don’t heat enough to “sizzle” the solution, just warm to the touch.

 

[RainDodger]

Many Brownings do not have bluing on the end of the muzzle. I have 2 BARs that are polished bright that I know of. I'd leave it that way.

 

[Catpop]

Not that it would work on muzzle crowns(but it might), but one gunsmith trick I used to use on newly made gun screws was heat bluing.
Once I had finished a new screw I would polish it and then pass its head over a propane torch. Going slow and watching carefully, I would remove the heat when it just turned blue and quench in Do-drill.
Did that for years on every screw I made in my little rural gunshop.
Matter of fact, I did it today on a WWll ships telescope I made a missing 3-56 Screw for.
Brownells Oxpho Blue also works well (if you get it completely oil free), but the torch is much quicker
Jmh experience.

 

[PTSchram]

Many Brownings do not have bluing on the end of the muzzle. I have 2 BARs that are polished bright that I know of. I'd leave it that way.

Every Browning shotgun I have owner or seen had no blind right at the muzzle.

Curiously, all of my Browning handguns and rife were blued to the muzzle.

I had a four tank hot blue line. TBH, THAT is the only way to go, although the chemistry I developed (I spent nine years studying Chemistry) was true black oxide rather than bluing so to speak, I found it to be more than sufficient with a little oil to prevent rust or deterioration.