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The less massive the reaction side of an action/reaction pair of objects...the more violent the reaction will be for a given power level.
Of course, other factors must be considered. In an autopistol, the recoil spring transmits at least half of the recoil force to the frame...so the felt recoil will vary according to the resistance offered by the recoil spring...or action spring, as it's probably more accurately described.
The stiffer the spring...the sharper the recoil will be.
Then, factor in the amount of force remaining when the slide hits the frame's impact abutment. The slower it's going, the less violently the gun will "flip" when it hits. The less massive the slide...ditto...all else being equal.
And vice-versa.
Bottom line...and to give you a direct answer...there are too many variables to give you a definitive answer. As with many questions regarding felt recoil, the answer is very often..."It depends."
Revolvers are much simpler. With those...or any other fixed breech firearm...it's a matter of mass and momentum.
I can give some very subjective impressions. I've shot small polymer .45s - the Glock 30 and 36 - as well as steel 1911s. The Glocks, as I recall, had a little more recoil, but were by no means punishing or uncontrollable; I actually shot quite well with them. What you have to remember - and again this is very subjective - is that the .45 Auto is generally "soft"-shooting, with a "push" or "slow roll" recoil instead of the sharp "snap" of the .40 S&W, which I find unpleasant in small guns.
I found that the recoil of a friends full sized 45 Glock is very mild. As previously mentioned it is a slow push. It is not snappy as is the recoil from my G-17, XD9 or any of the combat 40s I've shot. I can't comment on a 45 1911. I will say that the full sized 9mm 1911 I shot was the smoothest/lowest recoil gun I've ever used.
Not enough to worry about. I've shot .45 out of both polymer frames (Glock) and steel framed 1911s. The Glock seemed to feel it a little bit more but not enough that I cared. I'd say you'll be fine with a "plastic" frame.
I currently have 2 poly .45s (Kahr P45 & S&W 99) and 2 1911s (Officer & full-size) and I don't find a lot of difference between them. A bit more muzzle flip with the polys but nothing to be concerned about. I like shooting all of mine so to me it's a moot point...
My usual carry gun is my H&K USP .45 Compact. Not only is is a plastic frame gun, it's the smallest one they make. I can shoot that thing all day long with no problem. I've never had my wife complain that it kicks too much. That particular .45 is by far my favorite gun, but I'll admit I'm really looking ofrward to coming down this summer and handling an FNP. I might come back up to Alaska with another .45 for the collection.
My Ruger P345, was the softest shooting 45 I've ever shot, softer than an all steel 1911. The recoil system in that gun uses a very light primary spring, with a heavy short secondary spring, it works
I have shot HK's, XD's, and Glocks in 45's and don't think there is a recoil problem going from steel to plastic. If you can handle a 1911, you can handle one of the plastic guns.
I've owned and shot 3 subcompact polymer .45 autos, a Glock 36, a Taurus PT145, and a Cobra Patriot. They are a bit snappier than my Ruger P90 aluminum-framed full size, but not what you'd expect with the lower weight. I believe the polymer frames absorb some of the recoil.
I visited the range with both my S&W 1911 and S&W M&P.
I found that the recoil in the M&P seemed to be less, and the gun had less muzzle flip. The one factor I think did help was that with the medium backstrap in, the M&P fills my hand slightly better than my 1911. And that seemed odd, as I think the 1911 fits my hand great.
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