Recommendations or suggestions on a cheek riser

[Charlie98]

I have a Savage model 10 bolt gun that I've mounted a scope on. It's a pretty big scope, so it's mounted fairly high... so I'm looking for a cheek riser.

I bought an elastic riser... you use foam inserts to affect the rise you want, but as you can see from the photo, it still slides up, and the foam rolls over. I hate it.

My original thought was to source a cheek riser for something like an M1 Garand... a leather one... or something similar. Quite honestly, I have zero experience with anything like this... but I says to myself 'Self, I'll bet some of them High Roaders would have experience with something like this!'

Anyone have a setup they really like, or recommendations on where to look? The idea of leather seems like it would be better than nylon/plastic/etc... but I don't really know.

 

[gotboostvr]

Something like this is more permanent, but a big upgrade. Not expensive, but you might not be comfortable with the installation:

https://a.co/d/4yiLBL2

 

[dredd]

Something like this is more permanent, but a big upgrade. Not expensive, but you might not be comfortable with the installation:

https://a.co/d/4yiLBL2

Yep. That was going to be my suggestion as well.

You can also cut up a cheap mouse pad and glue to it.

It adds a tiny bit of squishy and some comfort over the bare plastic.

 

[Oldschool shooter]

I have a Savage 110 in 7mag. Savage stocks suck, too much drop at comb. I use the leather Garand style cheek riser that you mentioned and it works well for me.

 

[rabid wombat]

@Nature Boy recommended these in another thread, I will get one for a Tikka….

https://bradleycheekrest.com/main.sc

 

[Charlie98]

Something like this is more permanent, but a big upgrade. Not expensive, but you might not be comfortable with the installation:

You can also cut up a cheap mouse pad and glue to it.

It adds a tiny bit of squishy and some comfort over the bare plastic.

I've considered that already... and it's still a reasonable solution. Drilling holes in my stock isn't a problem... I'm not much for fashion if it doesn't function, so to speak.

Savage stocks suck, too much drop at comb. I

I like the Accustock... but you are right about the comb drop. I have a head shaped like a bowling ball and it's still not workable.

@Nature Boy recommended these in another thread

That seems like a better solution to drilling holes in the stock... I'll have to look at that further.

 

[high country]

I like the victor titan style rest: https://1022racerifle.com/victor-company-titan-black-stackable-cheek-rest-kit/

I used that on my Ruger American, you can stack it as high as you need and it secures with two sheet metal screws down from the top so less "surgery" than the through bolt adjustable risers. I glued a sheet of 1/8" black closed cell foam sheet to the top when I had it where I wanted it ($0.99 from the local hobby shop plus some spray adhesive I already had).

 

[entropy]

https://stockpositioning.com/products/3-50-rectangle-heavy-duty-comb-adjuster-step-insert

You have to cut the comb, but these are adjustable right and left as well as up and down. They are made primarily for shotguns, but work for any wood stocked gun.

 

[Charlie98]

I like the victor titan style rest: https://1022racerifle.com/victor-company-titan-black-stackable-cheek-rest-kit/

I used that on my Ruger American, you can stack it as high as you need and it secures with two sheet metal screws down from the top so less "surgery" than the through bolt adjustable risers. I glued a sheet of 1/8" black closed cell foam sheet to the top when I had it where I wanted it ($0.99 from the local hobby shop plus some spray adhesive I already had).

WOW! That's clean as... well... uh, really clean! Assuming there is enough fill in a poly stock to hold those screws... that might be my best option so far....

 

[InTheSwamp]

Triad Tactical

 

[Turkeytider]

The combs on both my Savage rifles, a 110 in .223 and a 17HMR, are too low for a good cheek weld and still be able to get a good sight picture in the scopes. Bought two ITC leather strap on comb risers and they have been just what I needed. Might want to take a look at them, particularly if you don`t care to drill holes in your stock.

 

[Dirtybob]

Used vet tape and pipe insulation to make cheek risers on two of mine.

 

[Varminterror]

Lots of options with varying degrees of modification and obviously varying aesthetics and security:

Elastic shell holders + curved foam inserts like this Allen cartridge band:


• Slip on stock packs with shims like this rebranded Hornady stock pack:


• Bradley Strap on riser

—-—————-—— This largely ends the “no modification” options ———————————

• Victor Company cheek riser:


• “McMillain style” kydex saddles with clamping knobs at the sides of the stock

• Replacement stock or chassis with adjustable comb, like this Boyd’s ProVarmint


• Graco or KMW adjustable comb hardware

 

[Bfh_auto]

Used vet tape and pipe insulation to make cheek risers on two of mine.

That's what I do. But I cut strips of styrofoam to stack on the comb before locking it in with the vet wrap. It's held perfectly for 4 years.

 

[P89DCSS]

There's plenty of space between the scope bell and the barrel. I'd start by lowering that scope so it just clears the barrel before making any changes to the comb.

 

[zdc1775]

Used vet tape and pipe insulation to make cheek risers on two of mine.

Vet tape and a usgi foam sleeping mat have been my go to for the last 15 years or so since it was first shown to me by an old Gunny when I went through DM school. Pretty sure I still have the the first of my personal rifles to get that treatment in the safe and it's still holding on strong 12 or so years later.

 

[Charlie98]

Lots of options with varying degrees of modification and obviously varying aesthetics and security:

• Victor Company cheek riser:

That's looking more and more like a good solution. I don't want a cartridge carrier or other bulky bag hanging off it... it's already heavy and cumbersome enough. That Victor is very clean and minimalistic.

There's plenty of space between the scope bell and the barrel. I'd start by lowering that scope so it just clears the barrel before making any changes to the comb.

The other point is the zoom knob, which is barely 1/4" off the rail.

Vet tape and a usgi foam sleeping mat have been my go to for the last 15 years or so since it was first shown to me by an old Gunny when I went through DM school.

I actually tried hockey tape on another application... my steering wheel, which was starting to shed and deteriorate after 14 years. It worked great at first, then the threads started to pull out of the edges and make a mess. Does vet tape not shed like that?

 

[zdc1775]

I actually tried hockey tape on another application... my steering wheel, which was starting to shed and deteriorate after 14 years. It worked great at first, then the threads started to pull out of the edges and make a mess. Does vet tape not shed like that?

Honestly have no idea what hockey tape is but from a bit of googling it seems to just be a heavy duty version of normal medical tape. Vet tape isn't actually tape but is more akin to the elastic bandages they use to wrap up your arm after giving blood.

And no, I haven't had any issue with threads coming out, at least not that I've noticed anyway.

I did have the tag end start to curl slightly after a year or so but I just used a little more of the vet tape and tucked the end up under the edge near the buttstock and haven't had any issue since.

 

[wombat13]

I like the victor titan style rest: https://1022racerifle.com/victor-company-titan-black-stackable-cheek-rest-kit/

I used that on my Ruger American, you can stack it as high as you need and it secures with two sheet metal screws down from the top so less "surgery" than the through bolt adjustable risers. I glued a sheet of 1/8" black closed cell foam sheet to the top when I had it where I wanted it ($0.99 from the local hobby shop plus some spray adhesive I already had).

I put one of these on my 10-22 and like it. I really like that the screws are through the top so it is ambidextrous.

 

[daniel craig]

@Nature Boy recommended these in another thread, I will get one for a Tikka….

https://bradleycheekrest.com/main.sc

Their website is terrible though lol

 

[bihj]

Might try lower rings to go with the cheek riser.

 

[high country]

WOW! That's clean as... well... uh, really clean! Assuming there is enough fill in a poly stock to hold those screws... that might be my best option so far....

The screws aren't large and don't do much, they just sort of secure it in place. The American stock I put one on is hollow and has plenty of grip for the screw. I am sure the savage stock is pretty much the same. The result is quite clean and secure. It would take a massive hit to move it, and the cheek riser would be the least of my worries at that point.

The only ding against it in my experience is that when you use all the available height, like I did, you have to mount it far enough back to clear the bolt when you are removing it. On my rifle, that puts it just a little further back than would be ideal. It still works fine but if I had to pick a nit, that would be it.

 

[Varminterror]

WOW! That's clean as... well... uh, really clean! Assuming there is enough fill in a poly stock to hold those screws... that might be my best option so far....

Most polymer stocks have plenty of material to hold the coarse thread screws provided with the Victor Company cheek risers, but even thin shell composite (fiberglass or carbon fiber) stocks can be adapted to accept them.

That green stock I have pictured above has the Victor cheek riser, all I did was insert two threaded unions into the stock as anchors. I poured an epoxy footing in the stock, then drilled mortises for the threaded unions, and epoxied them into the stock. Polymer stocks with removable butt pads are even easier.

 

[high country]

Most polymer stocks have plenty of material to hold the coarse thread screws provided with the Victor Company cheek risers, but even thin shell composite (fiberglass or carbon fiber) stocks can be adapted to accept them.

That green stock I have pictured above has the Victor cheek riser, all I did was insert two threaded unions into the stock as anchors. I poured an epoxy footing in the stock, then drilled mortises for the threaded unions, and epoxied them into the stock. Polymer stocks with removable butt pads are even easier.

View attachment 1126323

That is a very nice stock and very nice install.

On my cheap polymer stock I just lined it up and secured it with painters tape where I wanted it, far enough back to clear the bolt since there was interference. I ran a small bit down for a pilot hole in each mounting hole, then followed that with the screws. Everything tightened down nicely. Might have taken me 10 minutes total including gluing a layer of closed cell foam down over the plastic.

 

[daniel craig]

Lots of options with varying degrees of modification and obviously varying aesthetics and security:

Elastic shell holders + curved foam inserts like this Allen cartridge band:
View attachment 1126179

• Slip on stock packs with shims like this rebranded Hornady stock pack:
View attachment 1126182

• Bradley Strap on riser

—-—————-—— This largely ends the “no modification” options ———————————

• Victor Company cheek riser:
View attachment 1126184

• “McMillain style” kydex saddles with clamping knobs at the sides of the stock

• Replacement stock or chassis with adjustable comb, like this Boyd’s ProVarmint
View attachment 1126183

• Graco or KMW adjustable comb hardware

I considered making one like in that last picture for my Mosin nagant and I still might I just have to find the right hardware.