Redding 30-06 sizer in a Lee single s. press.

[Ignition Override]

The point is preparing to reload for my first semi-auto rifle: M-1 Garand.

On impulse in a shop, I saw my first 30-06 dies: Redding.

Using a thin layer of RCBS lube on the pad, the primers pop out easily and the (BT) .308 bullet can not go into the case mouth.
As instructed, No lube was applied to the outside neck, just a bit on the inside with the RCBS case lube brush.

Is there a comprehensive, simple list of general reloading procedures (differences?) or cautions for somebody preparing to go from ONLY Bolt-Action (British .303: JUST neck-sizing) to a Garand?

To clarify, with the .303, which is normally Only neck-sized, you just make sure that the bullet won't go into the case mouth.
With 30-06 in your (only) Garand, do you just trust that the full-length sizing is correct, and have faith that a round will chamber? Will buy a primer pocket scraper at Bass Pro today.

Safety is the only immediate concern, with consistency desirable after a little practice. Until I'm sure about all of this, there is plenty of factory LC M2 Ball ammo for the range.

 

[dmazur]

As far as I know, there's nothing special about Redding resizing dies.

You can start with a fired case and adjust down until it chambers in your rifle. 1/16 turn increments would be on the order of 0.004", and the difference between minimum and maximum case length to datum is often only 0.006".

I understand the general guideline of "until it touches the shell holder and then 1/4 turn more" is just that -- a guideline. It may not resize the case to the correct length to datum.

The unknown variables include the amount of flex in your press.

Dillon's die instructions recommend using a cartridge headspace gauge to set up a resizing die so the resulting case head falls between the two steps. These tools are relatively inexpensive.

Here's a link to some instructions on setting up a resizing die. They are not Garand-specific, so there are references to minimum headspace that may not be desirable. Many Garand shooters resize to SAAMI minimum, to guarantee proper chambering.

http://blog.sinclairintl.com/2009/02/19/setting-up-a-full-length-sizing-die/

And here's a link to something more related to reloading for a Garand

http://www.westernshooter.com/2008/02/reloading-for-automatic-rifles-david.html

 

[Ignition Override]

Thanks.
Looking fwd. to more suggestions.

 

[dmazur]

You might try a search for something like "Garand reloading". There are several experienced Garand shooters on this forum who regularly answer questions about this.

 

[dmazur]

Will buy a primer pocket scraper...

You should probably use a primer pocket uniforming tool, like this

http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=34720/Product/Sinclair_Primer_Pocket_Uniformers

These have a shoulder to cut to a specific (uniform) depth so you will get below-flush primer seating recommended for semi-auto rifles. While they also square the shoulder of the pocket, they are not "reamers".

As case life is usually only 5 firings or so for Garands, I've found that one primer pocket uniforming will last the life of the case.

Many primer pocket cleaners are better described as reamers than uniformers. Look at the location of the cutting surfaces. The reamers have them on the sides, and the uniformers have them only on the end of the tool.

 

[cfullgraf]

Standard 30-06 resizing dies should be fine for resizing for your Garand.

Ideally, you should have a gauge to measure the shoulder position of your case. An RCBS Precision Mic, Sinclair Bump gauge or something similar will work. Without that, you can adjust the die by smoking the neck and turning down the die in small increments until you bump the the shoulder back a bit. For auto loading rifles, a shoulder bump of .003".004" is desirable.

Otherwise, set the die up per the die instructions with the die touching the shell holder when the ram is raised. Not ideal for a number of reasons, but it works.

You do not need to do any primer pocket uniforming. If you use military surplus brass, you will need a tool to remove the military crimp from the primer pocket.

You will need to be able to trim the brass. It will grow on successive resizings.

There is no need to crimp the bullet when loading for the Garand.

Reloading for the Garand is no different than any other cartridge loading although the Garand is less tolerant of sloppy procedures. The primers must be seated below flush as high primers can cause problems. Full length sizing is a must. Neck sized brass will not chamber.

Sierra bullet has a good article on loading for gas guns. Check this link.

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/gasgunreload.cfm

Hope this helps.

 

[dmazur]

From the Sierra link above -

2) Primer pockets, particularly those of military brass, need to be checked carefully and uniformed if required. Potential problems, such as the remnants of a crimp, burrs or a pocket bottom that isn’t flat must be corrected. The goal here is to assure that the primer can be seated below flush with the case head, resting squarely on the bottom of the pocket.

Not arguing with the above post, but this is part of Sierra's recommended procedure. I've found that running a tungsten-carbide uniformer into a new batch of brass is the easiest way to check and correct primer pocket depth. The shoulder design prevents brass removal on pockets that are the correct depth, but fixes those that are a couple thousandths too shallow.

I was surprised that primer pockets weren't more uniform with new Winchester brass, which is what I'm using now.

I understand that many Garand shooters skip this step, and they are perhaps catching the occasional high primer after they are seated, before shooting. I prefer to control the process so they aren't created in the first place.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

You might want to use CCI #34 primers with your Garand ammo. They are NATO rated and will help eliminate slam-fires. In a pinch during the "shortage" I was forced to use CCI standard LR primers and didn't experiance any slam-fires. CCI #34 primers are more in line with Magnum primers than standard primers.

 

[mallc]

Sizing

The die squeezes the case and the neck size down. The expander on the mandrel opens the neck ID to proper diameter. You need to check the brass length after sizing the make sure it hasn't "grown" over maximum length.


Scott

 

[gamestalker]

Although you could get really precision about shoulder position, it would have little benefit for that particular application. The one size fits all mind set of FL sizing is more practicle for that rifle, and will likely produce a more reliable function. If we were talking about a bolt action application, neck sizing and setting the shoulder to precision position would be a worthy and beneficial approach. If it were me, I would simply suggest just FL sizing and shoot without further considerations, in my opinion.

 

[dmazur]

If it were me, I would simply suggest just FL sizing and shoot without further considerations...

While most die manufacturers are concerned about liability associated with over-resizing (creating the effect of excessive headspace) and make it difficult to over-resize, it is nevertheless something to be aware of.

For .30-06, there is only 0.006" difference between GO and NOGO, which is considered a reasonable limit for case stretch at the head. Without tools, this really can't be detected with a visual inspection.

And, due to the relative complexity of the Garand bolt, it really isn't feasible to use the chamber as a gauge, as is so often recommended with bolt actions. (Unless you like disassembling the Garand bolt...)

Here's a link to the instructions for an LE Wilson case gauge -

http://www.lewilson.com/images/CASE_GAGE.pdf

These things are only $36 and are cheap insurance that you aren't creating reloads that will suffer head separation on the first firing.