Redhawk stiff cylinder.

[CZ9shooter]

I recently bought a used Redhawk in 44 mag. Standard model, not Super. My first Ruger revolver. The S/N dates it back to the early eighties, but it is as tight, or tighter than my much newer Smith revolvers.

First time out with it the cylinder became quite hard to turn after 20-30 rounds. I figured it was just gummed up between the crane and cylinder after who knows how many years without a thorough cleaning. That did seem to be the case.

But after disassembly and getting everything as clean as I could manage, and well lubed... same thing. Starts out spinning with ease and then less than one box of ammo and it is just plain stiff again. Swung open or shut is the same.

Any advice? Is this a common issue with Redhawks? I am shooting cast reloads. They dont seem to be any dirtier than what I send through my 38spl guns. I have never had a Smith and Wesson tighten up like this.

 

[Walkalong]

Mine don't do that, but I don't know what it might be.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Check under the ejector star.

Little bits of underburned powder and whatnot can get in there and really make things stiff.

 

[BSA1]

I have a used S&W Model 10 that did the same thing. After trying all the usual things including replacing the ejector rod I sent it back to the factory. The repair ticket says "correct ammo binding."

My point is since the usual things (cleaning and oiling) didn't fix it I'd send it back to Ruger for repair.

 

[CZ9shooter]

It's not debris under the star because in turns hard with the action opened up as well.

I just got it and dont really wanna send it off just yet. I'll tinker around with it yet to see if I can sort it out. Maybe when the weather gets cold again I'll contact Ruger.

 

[Drail]

Most Ruger DA revos accumulate varying amounts of fouling inside the cylinder and the pin it spins on. Most people never tear a Ruger cylinder/crane assy. down all the way for cleaning because they don't know how or don't think it's necessary. It is necessary, as you have found. It's not hard to do but you need to able to hold two punches and the cylinder assy. with only two hands and depress two pins simultaneously. A third hand would make it easier but you only get issued two hands at birth. You can do this.

 

[CZ9shooter]

Yep. Did that the first time. It is only a temporary fix. My next step is going to be making a tool remove the ejector pieces from the cylinder.

 

[joem1945]

My super Blackhawk and S&W 51 does the same thing but it take way more rounds to get the cylinder to bind up a bit. Mostly it's carbon on the cylinder pin and inside the cylinder. I'm not that familiar with the red hawk but if there are fiber spacers in front of the cylinder they may need to be replaced.

 

[Tallball]

I had a similar problem on a different revolver.

It turned out that the cylinder gap was a hair too small.

It would shoot fine until the steel warmed up and started to expand. The gap would get smaller and smaller until the weapon started to malfunction.

 

[CZ9shooter]

Its not that. It is stiff when the action is OPEN as well. And it is still stiff long after it cools. Until I disassemble it.

 

[Hookeye]

Smith 686 did it. Little snap ring was out of groove just inside cylinder on ejector rod.

 

[CZ9shooter]

Yesterday I made a tool to remove the ejector assembly. It wasnt as dirty deep down in there as I expected. But it did allow me to find some gunk that wouldnt come out with normal cleaning methods. I had to meticulously scrape off stuff from inside the cylinder with a pick.

Got it out the the range today. Made it through a full box of ammo with only slight stiffness. A quick shot of remoil cleared it up. It's getting better. In the past additional oil did very little to free it up.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Maybe it's breaking in eh??

 

[Drail]

A tool has been available for many years now from Brownells to clean the groove that the spring loaded ball rides inside the cylinder bore. This is part of the Ruger DA design. If the carbon buildup in that groove is not removed occasionally the cylinder will start to bind. On a heavily used competition gun this is a regular part of maintenance. For most shooters it is rarely a problem. When my wife started competing (and practicing heavily) with her GP I had no choice but to buy the tool and use it. Some powders are worse than others for carbon buildup. One of the best solvents I have found for dissolving carbon is Dexron ATF (and it also is a very fine lube).