I noticed the cylinder on my Taurus 605 has very stiff rotation. I clean the gun after every time shooting, yet it seems that the stiffness is occurring because of some accumulation in the front. Can anyone tell me if I should/if I even can/ take the cylinder off the gun and clean it? It's still shooting every time; it's not to the point that it's too stiff to rotate or throw it out of alignment, but I would like to relieve this tension. Is it normal for cylinders to become stiffer with time, or should I doing some extra cleaning? I was under the impression (as said the manual as well) that adequate cleaning could be performed without any take down. I have probably put 900-1100 rds through it since I bought it.
Stiff cylinder rotation
- Thread starter jdm1986
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First check to be sure the ejector rod has not turned out and is binding on the front lock. If that is OK, then check for dirt or grease under the extractor.
You can clean pretty well without takedown, but in this case, I recommend you remove the cylinder and crane, pull the cylinder off the crane, and then soak crane and cylinder in a cleaner, like a brake or carb cleaner. Do NOT disassemble the cylinder, but work the extractor to make sure the dirt is all out from under it.
Also, clean the front of the cylinder with a bronze brush and also clean the back of the forcing cone (the back end of the barrel).
Jim
You can clean pretty well without takedown, but in this case, I recommend you remove the cylinder and crane, pull the cylinder off the crane, and then soak crane and cylinder in a cleaner, like a brake or carb cleaner. Do NOT disassemble the cylinder, but work the extractor to make sure the dirt is all out from under it.
Also, clean the front of the cylinder with a bronze brush and also clean the back of the forcing cone (the back end of the barrel).
Jim
Hmmm.. maybe this is obvious, but I have looked at the cylinder, and I cannot figure out how to remove it. I have looked through the manual also. I will continue trying to figure it out, I would guess it's obvious, and I'm just overlooking it.
Carl N. Brown
Member
Most people never disassemble revolvers or Winchester 94 rifles for that matter.
That said, I have noticed the cylinder on my Rossi .38
never spun as freely as the cylinder on my Ruger.
May be they are just tight like that.
Cleaning with proper cleaners and lubing with proper
lubricants helps somewhat. Watch out for WD40: it
is a solvent and wax, and will set up as a wax inside
a tight mechanism like a revolver cylinder.
If I recall correctly, removing the cylinder on a Rossi/Taurus
spin-off of the Smith&Wesson requires a total takedown
(as in removing the sideplate and internal parts).
I did that once with a Smith&Wesson 36 so old the oil had
oxidised into a varnish that had sludged it up to where the
hammer would not drop from full cock. That was so long
ago all I remember is I did not want to do it again. Once
was enough.
The instructions are out there, probably the NRA book
on firearms disassembly which I recall using.
That said, I have noticed the cylinder on my Rossi .38
never spun as freely as the cylinder on my Ruger.
May be they are just tight like that.
Cleaning with proper cleaners and lubing with proper
lubricants helps somewhat. Watch out for WD40: it
is a solvent and wax, and will set up as a wax inside
a tight mechanism like a revolver cylinder.
If I recall correctly, removing the cylinder on a Rossi/Taurus
spin-off of the Smith&Wesson requires a total takedown
(as in removing the sideplate and internal parts).
I did that once with a Smith&Wesson 36 so old the oil had
oxidised into a varnish that had sludged it up to where the
hammer would not drop from full cock. That was so long
ago all I remember is I did not want to do it again. Once
was enough.
The instructions are out there, probably the NRA book
on firearms disassembly which I recall using.
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