Ive recently bought myself a Glock 37 in .45 GAP. I have at my disposal WSPM primers and a few pounds of power pistol. The only bullets I can find locally are zero brand 230 gr FMJ's. Lyman has data but they utilize Win cases and WSP primers behind speer bullets. I guess my question would be, would it be safe to load their minimum load(5.7gr) with starline brass and wspm primers / 230 zeros? Ive always been told that reloading for glocks was a no-no but would imagine Id be lower in the pressure dept than most factory 230 grains loads.
Reloading .45 GAP without glock related issues
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Lost Sheep
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Two issues I know of
There are only two issues I know of with Glocks and reloads; Leading and the "Unsupported Chamber".
Do a search on the phrase "Glock unsupported chamber" and get more authoritative information than I have. As I understand it, the feed ramp leaves the cartridge in the chamber not fully surrounded (supported) by steel. With high enough pressure, or soft brass, or brass that is not very thick at the web/head you can get a slight bulge there. This bulge is hard to remove when reloading, as it is very close to the rim held by the shell holder.
There are "pass-through" dies that will remove this bulge, but the brass is still being worked in that spot more than you would like.
The leading problem is avoidable by using harder lead bullets at lower velocities or jacketed or plated bullets. It is also a good practice to thoroughly remove lead from the barrel before shooting copper-clad bullets. I am told they tend to solder themselves in your barrel if there is leading. Recipe for disaster. It is also curable by switching to an aftermarket barrel with different rifling. The leading problem is supposedly due to polygonal "rifling" (which is not, by the way, found solely in Glocks, so be aware of that). Regular cut rifling is not nearly so easily leaded, apparently, as the polygonal rifling.
Of course, no gunmaker RECOMMENDS reloading. They believe there are some reloaders out there who will make a mistake or miscalculation and blame the resultant catastrophe on the gun, not themselves. Silly gunmakers. They should know we never make mistakes?
Lost Sheep
P.S. I am not a gunmaker, nor do own a Glock and I don't play one on TV, (either one
) so do your own research by searching here and web-wide. There are threads and articles out there that explain the issues far better than my poor description.
There are only two issues I know of with Glocks and reloads; Leading and the "Unsupported Chamber".
Do a search on the phrase "Glock unsupported chamber" and get more authoritative information than I have. As I understand it, the feed ramp leaves the cartridge in the chamber not fully surrounded (supported) by steel. With high enough pressure, or soft brass, or brass that is not very thick at the web/head you can get a slight bulge there. This bulge is hard to remove when reloading, as it is very close to the rim held by the shell holder.
There are "pass-through" dies that will remove this bulge, but the brass is still being worked in that spot more than you would like.
The leading problem is avoidable by using harder lead bullets at lower velocities or jacketed or plated bullets. It is also a good practice to thoroughly remove lead from the barrel before shooting copper-clad bullets. I am told they tend to solder themselves in your barrel if there is leading. Recipe for disaster. It is also curable by switching to an aftermarket barrel with different rifling. The leading problem is supposedly due to polygonal "rifling" (which is not, by the way, found solely in Glocks, so be aware of that). Regular cut rifling is not nearly so easily leaded, apparently, as the polygonal rifling.
Of course, no gunmaker RECOMMENDS reloading. They believe there are some reloaders out there who will make a mistake or miscalculation and blame the resultant catastrophe on the gun, not themselves. Silly gunmakers. They should know we never make mistakes?
Lost Sheep
P.S. I am not a gunmaker, nor do own a Glock and I don't play one on TV, (either one
) so do your own research by searching here and web-wide. There are threads and articles out there that explain the issues far better than my poor description.
LiveLife
Member
Yes, definitely work up carefully from starting charge when using magnum primers and load data meant for standard primers.
There have been several threads using magnum primers with standard primer loads and perhaps some others who have used magnum primers can comment.
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