Reloading coated vs. uncoated bullets

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wiiawiwb

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I could use some words of encouragement. My reloading has been going well. Thus far, until today, I've only reloaded coated bullets from MBC.

I decided to order some MBC uncoated 255 gr SWC (Brinell of 12) because the coated ones I got before were harder than I should be using (Brinell of 18). As I started seating the uncoated bullets, some of the lube would ooze out the top of the casing and had to be cleaned off with a paper towel. As I was fiddling with the bullet heads, I was getting lead all over my hands. In the future, I'll have to use nitrile gloves which I never used with coated bullets.

I'm about ready to take the 1,000 bullets I ordered and throw them in the trash. I don't understand what the attraction is of an uncoated bullet. It is messy, takes additional time to clean up, and requires the use of nitrile gloves.

Why does anyone use an uncoated bullet?
 
You need to read and learn a little about lead. You do not need to wear gloves, it is not absorbed through the skin. What's on you finger is lube. Wash your hands.
Lead bullets have been used for how many years??

If you do not like the bullets call or e mail MBC they will take them back and refund you money, you pay shipping.
 
Why do you say the coated bullets were harder than you should use? If you're trying to prevent leading, then bullet hardness makes a difference. With a coated bullet, the brinnell hardness makes no difference at all. It's more similar to loading a plated bullet than a plain cast bullet.
 
45 Colt ?

the lube would ooze out the top of the casing and had to be cleaned off with a paper towel.
The expander should open the case and bell the mouth. If the flare/bell in not enough, the case may scrape lube off the bullet. Its also possible when seating a bullet, that the die removes the bell/flare to soon. This requires a seating/crimp die adjustment, making the internal larger in diameter, without touching the crimper. Brass trim length is also a factor, if length varies by more than .005" RCBS Cowboy dies are for lead bullets.
 
Yes, bell or flare the case until you're able to seat without issues. As stated, lead is not absorbed through the skin - thoroughly wash your hands before sticking your fingers in your mouth :)

While coating can/does eliminate leading, it has no bearing on whether the bullet obturates or not - Match your bullet to operating pressure.
 
Yes, .45 Colt. Flaring/belling more makes. Here I think I'm doing a good thing by matching the proper hardness to the velocity and I end up with egg, err lube, all over my face!

I try working with the one box I got by taking everyone's recommendations and see if I like the non-coated lead. If so, that's great, otherwise, I'll return an unopened box.

Thanks guys!
 
If you are loading real hot Ruger only loads than the 18 BHN is good. For normal 45 Colt load at 800 fps (around) then the 12BHN is fine,

As to the lube, are the bullets in a hot environment which will tend to make it a little softer.? But as others said flair (or bell) the case mouth enough so the bullet will just start in the case.
 
I load MO bullet brinell 18 in everything except my Colt SAA. I don't use coated bullets. I think you need to reset your belling die.
 
The bullets are stored in my house so they are normal room temperature. I've obviously not belled them enough even though the coated version of the same bullet (but Brinell 18) was flared enough to seat properly them without issue.
 
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