Any updated cost comparisons for getting into reloading over factory ammo? I assume to get a REALLY good setup you need to spend upwards of $1,000 on everything? What's the payback period figuring the per round cost vs factory FMJ? Anyone reload their own SD JHP loads? Seems most articles I've read frown on that to keep aggressive prosecutors at bay.
Reloading Costs?
- Thread starter Rustynuts
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You can get a good setup for WAY less than $1000 that will last you for many, many years, load great ammo and save you money. 
Then later you can get the expensive machines and all the goodies and go broke like the rest of us.
And I would recommend a good gun oil for that problem.
Then later you can get the expensive machines and all the goodies and go broke like the rest of us.
And I would recommend a good gun oil for that problem.
depends on what you shoot if its an "exotic" round ie 38 super for pistols or somthing like 416 rigby for rifles you will make your money up fairly fast if you shoot common stuff like 9mm and 223 then it will be a while. For me I shoot 38 super and bought a lee pro1000 not exactly maintance free or top quality but I made my money back powder brass primers and all in under 1000 rounds a year ago. at todays prices it will be more like 500 rounds. Now for my 50-90 sharps at $100/20 I would expect I will break even on a $1000 setup when I make mt 125th round thats really fast.
jmorris
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- Sep 30, 2005
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- 24,236
It’s possible to purchase a minimal, single stage, reloading setup for less than $100 (way less if you use the lee hand tool). Speed is what drives up the cost. If you add up the price of the machine you chouse and the components you’ll be using then divide the price you currently pay for factory ammo into that total, this will be how many rounds you have to make to break even, the rest is gravy.
scrat
Member
1000 is 950 over kill. i mean from a lee classic loader still in the 20.00 range to a kit that you can purchase for 90-200. depending on maker and what your doing or want to do. Once the initial purchase is done is just the powder,primers and bullets. for those who cast there own thats one less piece of the pie that you have to deal with. This makes your cost a lot less. Same time comparing to factory ammo. Fireformed brass neck sized with a quality bullet will beat the heck out of factory ammo. Anyone who reloads can develope a same comparison factory round quick. Once this is done its tailoring the powder/bullet/primer combination to develop a round that kicks the pants off of any factory round for your firearm. Its a great hobbby that makes a huge difference.
Kimber1911_06238
Member
like many others, I've found that reloading will not save you money. Yes you can load good quality ammo for less, but chances are you will shoot more.
jfh
Member.
Unless one is focussed on (pistol) cartridge production for above-club competition practice, I think one can get set up very well for about $300.00--that's using a Lee Classic Cast Turret package, and includes all startup items, from a tumbler and media through the press and dies and on to ammo boxes and even a MAX cartridge gauge, caliper, and other misc. items.
That setup will allow you to learn reloading easily, using the press as a single stage while you do it, then shift to turret use as you've learned the process.
Depending on the skill level and type (pistol or rifle), with the auto index rod installed you'll be able to run from 100 rounds to 200+ rounds per hour. My throughput (on a standard Lee turret with 4-die and Safety Prime upgrade) is about 180 rounds per hour in "production" mode. It's a simple "thinking" change to drop back into development mode--e.g., 5-10-20 cartridges, then a charge change.
So, I would use about $350.00-$400.00 as the max one has to spend to get completely / inexpensively set up, and that's with a press you can continue to use in various ways; you won't want to set it aside.
Now you can calculate the per-round-costs--and as noted by others, those are all over the map. For me, the "best" example is that I am current reloading "replica" PD practice rounds of the GDSB135-gr. 38+P for about $5.50 / 50. The best price I've found for small quantities of the factory round is $26.00+ ST (about $28.00 here in MN) for 50. So, I am saving about $22.50 per box.
At that rate, I would've paid for the above press kit package in nominally 750 rounds. If I'd bought just 100 pieces of brass, they might be worn enough to replace for loading the +P / +P+ pressure-level charges the replica rounds require.
Of course, I haven't shot just 750 rounds with my j-frames--more like 6,000 in the past seven months--and believe me, I have spent more money saving more money than I ever thought I would spend doing this saving.
Finally, about the CW of not carrying reloads and having to use them in a PD shooting. I think that issue is largely apocryphal--I'm not sure it has ever been a factor in a PD shooting prosecution. However, given our current 'climate' about firearms here in the US, it does seem to be good common sense--so I carry the factory ammo.
Jim H.
That setup will allow you to learn reloading easily, using the press as a single stage while you do it, then shift to turret use as you've learned the process.
Depending on the skill level and type (pistol or rifle), with the auto index rod installed you'll be able to run from 100 rounds to 200+ rounds per hour. My throughput (on a standard Lee turret with 4-die and Safety Prime upgrade) is about 180 rounds per hour in "production" mode. It's a simple "thinking" change to drop back into development mode--e.g., 5-10-20 cartridges, then a charge change.
So, I would use about $350.00-$400.00 as the max one has to spend to get completely / inexpensively set up, and that's with a press you can continue to use in various ways; you won't want to set it aside.
Now you can calculate the per-round-costs--and as noted by others, those are all over the map. For me, the "best" example is that I am current reloading "replica" PD practice rounds of the GDSB135-gr. 38+P for about $5.50 / 50. The best price I've found for small quantities of the factory round is $26.00+ ST (about $28.00 here in MN) for 50. So, I am saving about $22.50 per box.
At that rate, I would've paid for the above press kit package in nominally 750 rounds. If I'd bought just 100 pieces of brass, they might be worn enough to replace for loading the +P / +P+ pressure-level charges the replica rounds require.
Of course, I haven't shot just 750 rounds with my j-frames--more like 6,000 in the past seven months--and believe me, I have spent more money saving more money than I ever thought I would spend doing this saving.
Finally, about the CW of not carrying reloads and having to use them in a PD shooting. I think that issue is largely apocryphal--I'm not sure it has ever been a factor in a PD shooting prosecution. However, given our current 'climate' about firearms here in the US, it does seem to be good common sense--so I carry the factory ammo.
Jim H.
It's cheaper to reload than buy the same quantity of rounds. People say they just shoot more, fine. But they are still getting the ammo for less dollars/round.
It takes a little while to offset the cost of equipment, but most of it lasts a long time.
You also need to keep your brass, and find cheap sources of it.
I think of it like working on your car yourself. The first brake job you do may have been cheaper at the garage if you had to buy $200 worth of tools, plus the brake pads, fluid etc. The second, third, and fourth brake job are where you save money.
This topic as been discussed a million times on this board, page through a few of them.
A cheap case of 45ACP is between $250-$300.
I can get decent 200 gr bullets (coated, not FMJ) for $87/1000 delivered.
I can get used brass for $75.00/1000 delivered
Powder and primer for 1K rounds, let's say $25.
So $187 for 1K of 45ACP. Now next time you reload you won't need to buy the brass, so case #2 is $110.
You could do this cheaper with lead bullets by the way.
So 2 cases of 45ACP for $300 vs 1 case. So you saved $150 on 2 cases. A dillon 550B (so you can add other calibers later) set up for 45ACP and some other stuff (tumbler, scale, case gauge, bullet puller) will cost you around $750 bucks, and this is a pretty nice set up.
You'd be even after about 10 cases of 45 ACP.
Now start adding rifle rounds. You won't have to buy a new press, just a caliber change, figure $150 for a nice set up. Your press is already paid for by the 45ACP.
Federal 168gr match ammo is about $30/20 rounds. So $150/100
The same sierra matchking 168gr HPBT is about $30/100 (you could get a cheaper 168gr HPBT too, or buy more to save $.)
Brass $40/100
100 primer about $3.00
Let's say $10.00 for powder
So you save about $70/100 on the first 100. The second 100 you reuse your brass, so 200 rounds costs about $125 vs $300. In 200 rounds you paid off your caliber conversion.
The above examples are small volume and not the cheapest routes to go. You could buy a Lee turret and have a pretty nice set up for about $350 and cheaper caliber changes too. You could also buy cheaper components in bulk and save more. For example Nosler 168gr HPBT's are $65/250.
Add up what you have spent in your life on ammo. Now think if you had bought the reloading equipment when you first started.
It takes a little while to offset the cost of equipment, but most of it lasts a long time.
You also need to keep your brass, and find cheap sources of it.
I think of it like working on your car yourself. The first brake job you do may have been cheaper at the garage if you had to buy $200 worth of tools, plus the brake pads, fluid etc. The second, third, and fourth brake job are where you save money.
This topic as been discussed a million times on this board, page through a few of them.
A cheap case of 45ACP is between $250-$300.
I can get decent 200 gr bullets (coated, not FMJ) for $87/1000 delivered.
I can get used brass for $75.00/1000 delivered
Powder and primer for 1K rounds, let's say $25.
So $187 for 1K of 45ACP. Now next time you reload you won't need to buy the brass, so case #2 is $110.
You could do this cheaper with lead bullets by the way.
So 2 cases of 45ACP for $300 vs 1 case. So you saved $150 on 2 cases. A dillon 550B (so you can add other calibers later) set up for 45ACP and some other stuff (tumbler, scale, case gauge, bullet puller) will cost you around $750 bucks, and this is a pretty nice set up.
You'd be even after about 10 cases of 45 ACP.
Now start adding rifle rounds. You won't have to buy a new press, just a caliber change, figure $150 for a nice set up. Your press is already paid for by the 45ACP.
Federal 168gr match ammo is about $30/20 rounds. So $150/100
The same sierra matchking 168gr HPBT is about $30/100 (you could get a cheaper 168gr HPBT too, or buy more to save $.)
Brass $40/100
100 primer about $3.00
Let's say $10.00 for powder
So you save about $70/100 on the first 100. The second 100 you reuse your brass, so 200 rounds costs about $125 vs $300. In 200 rounds you paid off your caliber conversion.
The above examples are small volume and not the cheapest routes to go. You could buy a Lee turret and have a pretty nice set up for about $350 and cheaper caliber changes too. You could also buy cheaper components in bulk and save more. For example Nosler 168gr HPBT's are $65/250.
Add up what you have spent in your life on ammo. Now think if you had bought the reloading equipment when you first started.
donttellthewife
Member
Strictly economically, you really don't have to " pay off the equipment" by reloading very many rounds. Just sell the press when your reloading days are over and get good precentage of your money back. That maybe something to keep in mind when deciding on which brand to purchase, resell value will be important.
For SD rounds, find out what your LEOs are using and copy them, be sure to document that you did the proper research and load development. Then load them a tad slower to show what a humanitarian you really are.
Ron
For SD rounds, find out what your LEOs are using and copy them, be sure to document that you did the proper research and load development. Then load them a tad slower to show what a humanitarian you really are.
Ron
Grandpa Shooter
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- Oct 11, 2007
- Messages
- 948
I am one of the people who counsels against carrying defensive loads you hand loaded. During my more active days as a shooter and instructor I stayed in close contact with the local PD. Many of my friends are PD in some capacity. From what they told me the crime scene investigators (Not to be confused with those lousy shows on TV) always noted if the rounds fired by the "victim" were commercial or handloads as part of their routine work up of the incident and that their paperwork always was CC'd to the DA's office for review. It ws the total investigation and review that really mattered, but a zealous DA could point to the use of handloads to try to establish a predisposition to "shoot to kill".
With the number of incidents in which an individual is actually pressed to shoot being astronomically low, I don't see any point in "loading your own" unless it is purely to test function and reliability in your carry gun.
With the number of incidents in which an individual is actually pressed to shoot being astronomically low, I don't see any point in "loading your own" unless it is purely to test function and reliability in your carry gun.
grandpa, did they happen to mention how they knew they were handloads vs commercial?
i'm sure some of us know how to tell the difference, but given most police don't know the difference between semi and full auto, i'm somewhat skeptical about their ability to pick a handload out of a lineup.
i'm sure some of us know how to tell the difference, but given most police don't know the difference between semi and full auto, i'm somewhat skeptical about their ability to pick a handload out of a lineup.
evan price
Member
Rustynuts, the answer is not simple. The best answer is "It depends".
It depends on what caliber(s) you are shooting. It depends on how much time or space you have. It depends on if you can take advantage of volume buying to reduce your costs. It depends on if you can get free or cheap brass.
If you are just doing straight-walled pistol type cases, M1 carbine, etc you can pick up a Lee Pro-1000 progressive press brand new, already set up for a single caliber, for $129 from about anywhere. It's not the Dillon but it's plenty good enough to make good accurate ammo in large quantities. Dillons are great machines don't et me wrong but you don't need to start out with one to see if reloading is right for you.
Caliber can make or break you in terms of being worth reloading.
9mm costs about $7 a box at Dicks or similar retailers, for 115-gr FMJ.
I reload 9mm for: 4.5 cents for the bullet. 2.5 cents for the primer. 1 cent for powder. That's 8 cents a round, or $4 per box of 50. That is with a lead bullet. To use a plated or FMJ the cost goes up another 2.5 cents per round, to a total of 10.5 cents per round, or $5.25 per box of 50. When you take into account your time and if components are any more expensive than that, reloading straight 9mm practice ammo is a wash- you can buy new factory ammo for not much more if you need FMJ. If you are OK with lead you can save $3 a box of 9mm luger.
.45 ACP I can reload for 5.5 cents for a lead 230-gr roundnose, 2.5 cents for primer and 1 cent for powder. That's 9.5 cents per round and $4.75 per box. If I want plated or FMJ the cost goes up to 10 cents for the bullet, for a total of $6.75 per box of 50. Since the cheapest .45 acp ammo I can find is the CCI Blazer Brass cased at Wal*Mart for $12 a box that means I am saving more than $5-$7 a box over buying new.
I load .38 Special or .357 Magnum using a 158-gr lead SWC for 4.5 cents, 2.5 cents for primer, and .8 cents for powder (.38) or 1.5 cents for powder (.357) giving me a total cost for .38s of 7.8 cents each ($3.90 a box of 50) or .357s are 8.5 cents each ($4.25 a box of 50). .38 Specials are going for $12 a box, and .357's are $20 a box. I save $8 a box of .38s and $15 a box of .357s.
The real winner is .44 Magnum. I use a lead 240-grain SWC for 5.5 cents, 2.5 cents for primer and 2 cents for powder. That's 10 cents per round, or $5 a box of fifty. I see .44 mag ammo going for $29.99 a box around here, and up, so I am saving a whopping $25 a box loading my own .44s.
I loaded 6 boxes of .44 mags over Thanksgiving and that saved me $150- which paid for a press, right there, including components to load those 300 .44's!
All those prices are using components I bought in the past 90 days. I scrounge all my range brass and sweep up at the private club I am a member at so I have pretty much all the brass I will ever need when I need it.
Now, Rifle is a different story. There is a lot more savings to be had in loading rifle, but it's a bit more work and you need to do it on a single stage press, more time ocnsuming, but the advantage is you get more reliable, more accurate ammunition by handloading for consistency.
You don't need to spend a lot of cash to get into reloading if you buy smart and know what you will be using.
eBay is a great place to surf around and scoop up deals. You can get a nice tumbler for under $30 delivered if you look carefully. Dies and accessories are all over there for cheap if you know what you are looking at.
It depends on what caliber(s) you are shooting. It depends on how much time or space you have. It depends on if you can take advantage of volume buying to reduce your costs. It depends on if you can get free or cheap brass.
If you are just doing straight-walled pistol type cases, M1 carbine, etc you can pick up a Lee Pro-1000 progressive press brand new, already set up for a single caliber, for $129 from about anywhere. It's not the Dillon but it's plenty good enough to make good accurate ammo in large quantities. Dillons are great machines don't et me wrong but you don't need to start out with one to see if reloading is right for you.
Caliber can make or break you in terms of being worth reloading.
9mm costs about $7 a box at Dicks or similar retailers, for 115-gr FMJ.
I reload 9mm for: 4.5 cents for the bullet. 2.5 cents for the primer. 1 cent for powder. That's 8 cents a round, or $4 per box of 50. That is with a lead bullet. To use a plated or FMJ the cost goes up another 2.5 cents per round, to a total of 10.5 cents per round, or $5.25 per box of 50. When you take into account your time and if components are any more expensive than that, reloading straight 9mm practice ammo is a wash- you can buy new factory ammo for not much more if you need FMJ. If you are OK with lead you can save $3 a box of 9mm luger.
.45 ACP I can reload for 5.5 cents for a lead 230-gr roundnose, 2.5 cents for primer and 1 cent for powder. That's 9.5 cents per round and $4.75 per box. If I want plated or FMJ the cost goes up to 10 cents for the bullet, for a total of $6.75 per box of 50. Since the cheapest .45 acp ammo I can find is the CCI Blazer Brass cased at Wal*Mart for $12 a box that means I am saving more than $5-$7 a box over buying new.
I load .38 Special or .357 Magnum using a 158-gr lead SWC for 4.5 cents, 2.5 cents for primer, and .8 cents for powder (.38) or 1.5 cents for powder (.357) giving me a total cost for .38s of 7.8 cents each ($3.90 a box of 50) or .357s are 8.5 cents each ($4.25 a box of 50). .38 Specials are going for $12 a box, and .357's are $20 a box. I save $8 a box of .38s and $15 a box of .357s.
The real winner is .44 Magnum. I use a lead 240-grain SWC for 5.5 cents, 2.5 cents for primer and 2 cents for powder. That's 10 cents per round, or $5 a box of fifty. I see .44 mag ammo going for $29.99 a box around here, and up, so I am saving a whopping $25 a box loading my own .44s.
I loaded 6 boxes of .44 mags over Thanksgiving and that saved me $150- which paid for a press, right there, including components to load those 300 .44's!
All those prices are using components I bought in the past 90 days. I scrounge all my range brass and sweep up at the private club I am a member at so I have pretty much all the brass I will ever need when I need it.
Now, Rifle is a different story. There is a lot more savings to be had in loading rifle, but it's a bit more work and you need to do it on a single stage press, more time ocnsuming, but the advantage is you get more reliable, more accurate ammunition by handloading for consistency.
You don't need to spend a lot of cash to get into reloading if you buy smart and know what you will be using.
eBay is a great place to surf around and scoop up deals. You can get a nice tumbler for under $30 delivered if you look carefully. Dies and accessories are all over there for cheap if you know what you are looking at.
The-Fly
Member
I did get an expensive reloading setup, but thats because I load a LOT of rounds, in a lot of calibers.
I load for 38/357, 9, 45, 30-30, and 223.
A VERY rough guess on how much I shoot per year....
9mm - 12000 rounds
38spl - 3000 rounds
45acp - 6000 rounds
223 - 9000 rounds
357 - 1500 rounds
30-30 - (no numbers yet, just started reloading this )
My press is a Dillon 550. I have quick change kits for all my calibers. Have most of the bells and whistles you can get for the press as well.
Have a lyman magnum tumbler, large dillon media separator, digital scale, digital calipers, giraud brass trimmer, plus lots of buckets, bins, and odds and ends that I've found useful for reloading.
Probably have $1500 or a bit more in all my reloading gear by now. I've started reloading in August of 06. And I'm already ahead financially.
Here's my latest cost per 1000 rounds. I mail order virtually everything I use for reloading, so I almost never pay tax for my components.
9mm - using 135gr FMJ's - $90
38spl - using 125gr lead - $70
357 - using 125gr FMJ's - $110
45acp - using 230gr lead - $90
223 - using 55gr FMJ's - $125
(haven't done enough 30-30 to have good numbers for it yet)
Compare to Walmat in 1000 round batches
9mm - $171 with tax
38spl - $214 with tax
357 - $300 with tax
223 - $428 with tax (if they even have it !!!)
So my savings are roughly per year........
9mm - (171-90) X 12 =$972
38spl - (214-70) X 3 = $432
357 - (300-110) X 1.5 = $285
45acp - (257-90) X 6 = $1002
223 - (428-125) X 9 = $2727
Total estimated savings per year at the rate I shoot = $5418
This doesn't factor in varmint ammo ( I load 50gr Nosler's for 223, and I've never seen factory ammo in this loading), but based on what I've seen loaded vmax 223 go for vs what I could load the same thing for, I'm probably saving another $500ish per year as well.
Some people argue that you shoot more when you reload and that you don't end up saving money. I tend to agree to a point, but my monthly ammo budget has gone DOWN somewhat since reloading, and I get to shoot a LOT more, especially the more expensive calibers like 357 mag, 45acp, and 223. In fact, I refused to buy a 45acp gun for a long time due to ammo costs until I had my press.
If I had to give up my press, I'd probably shoot about 1/2 to 1/3 the volume I do now, avoid the expensive calibers outright, and still spend more money.
The one trade off I make in reloading, is that I spend a little more time to load ammo compared to just buying it at the store. But it doesn't take all that long with a good progressive press. And besides saving money, I can tailor my loads any way I desire (how often do you see 135gr 9mm loads that do 1100fps out of a G34? ).
I load for 38/357, 9, 45, 30-30, and 223.
A VERY rough guess on how much I shoot per year....
9mm - 12000 rounds
38spl - 3000 rounds
45acp - 6000 rounds
223 - 9000 rounds
357 - 1500 rounds
30-30 - (no numbers yet, just started reloading this )
My press is a Dillon 550. I have quick change kits for all my calibers. Have most of the bells and whistles you can get for the press as well.
Have a lyman magnum tumbler, large dillon media separator, digital scale, digital calipers, giraud brass trimmer, plus lots of buckets, bins, and odds and ends that I've found useful for reloading.
Probably have $1500 or a bit more in all my reloading gear by now. I've started reloading in August of 06. And I'm already ahead financially.
Here's my latest cost per 1000 rounds. I mail order virtually everything I use for reloading, so I almost never pay tax for my components.
9mm - using 135gr FMJ's - $90
38spl - using 125gr lead - $70
357 - using 125gr FMJ's - $110
45acp - using 230gr lead - $90
223 - using 55gr FMJ's - $125
(haven't done enough 30-30 to have good numbers for it yet)
Compare to Walmat in 1000 round batches
9mm - $171 with tax
38spl - $214 with tax
357 - $300 with tax
223 - $428 with tax (if they even have it !!!)
So my savings are roughly per year........
9mm - (171-90) X 12 =$972
38spl - (214-70) X 3 = $432
357 - (300-110) X 1.5 = $285
45acp - (257-90) X 6 = $1002
223 - (428-125) X 9 = $2727
Total estimated savings per year at the rate I shoot = $5418
This doesn't factor in varmint ammo ( I load 50gr Nosler's for 223, and I've never seen factory ammo in this loading), but based on what I've seen loaded vmax 223 go for vs what I could load the same thing for, I'm probably saving another $500ish per year as well.
Some people argue that you shoot more when you reload and that you don't end up saving money. I tend to agree to a point, but my monthly ammo budget has gone DOWN somewhat since reloading, and I get to shoot a LOT more, especially the more expensive calibers like 357 mag, 45acp, and 223. In fact, I refused to buy a 45acp gun for a long time due to ammo costs until I had my press.
If I had to give up my press, I'd probably shoot about 1/2 to 1/3 the volume I do now, avoid the expensive calibers outright, and still spend more money.
The one trade off I make in reloading, is that I spend a little more time to load ammo compared to just buying it at the store. But it doesn't take all that long with a good progressive press. And besides saving money, I can tailor my loads any way I desire (how often do you see 135gr 9mm loads that do 1100fps out of a G34? ).
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The-Fly
Member
Generally for 12 gauge, unless you want some specialized type loads, and the $4 dollar el cheapo birdshot at walmart isn't cutting it, its not worth the trouble. I do about 1500-2000 shells of birdshot a year, and looked into reloading it. My goal was to save money, and compared to cheap birdshot, its not really possible.
Now if I was a high level trap shooter, or shot a lot of stuff that was expensive at the store, it would be worth the trouble.
Now if I was a high level trap shooter, or shot a lot of stuff that was expensive at the store, it would be worth the trouble.
target1911
Member
You can get NEW Dillon Square Deal-B (auto indexing) press set up for one pistol caliber for $320. Other than that you need a scale and calipers ( I prefer digital for both). You can get you a tumbler now or wait a while. I have been loading for about 8 months and still dont have one but I have a couple of friends that do.
Decent scale....beam....$50
........................digital....$75
Calipers...........Digital....$20-$40
Decent scale....beam....$50
........................digital....$75
Calipers...........Digital....$20-$40
Grandpa Shooter
Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2007
- Messages
- 948
Taliv, the answer is right there in front of you. They ask the person who did the shooting. He tells the truth under oath.
evan price
Member
I would put a tumbler high on the list, not as important as a press, but I have found (starting off with no tumbler) that tumbled brass runs much better in the press, is easier to resize, and is not as hard on the dies. It also is much better looking at a fresh reloaded box of ammo, and it is all nice and bright and sparkly, and not looking like cruddy.
The-fly has given a good reason why one might own a Dillon. They are good workhorses and if you shoot thousands of rounds every month, they are a good value because you are amortizing that high cost over much more rounds of ammo, and making that many, you can't afford to screw around with a round getting a primer sideways every now and then.
If you shoot more recereationally like me, the Lee gear is good enough.
I would estimate I shoot maximum about 5000 9mm, 2000 .45acp, 500 .44magnum, 500 .357 magnum, and 1000 .38 specials a year. Not including .22's (Which I probably shooot 5000+ every year) or rifle, that's 10K rounds in a good year.
My total investment in equipment includes die sets- some I don't have guns for and probably never will (bought a package deal used)- but I would say with the Pro-1000, the 3-hole Lee turret press, spare press parts, Midway tumbler & separator, two powder measures, a powder trickler, reloading stand and bins, Lee scale, bullet puller, spare turret plates, spare carrier, calber conversion parts, spare powder measure discs and a micro disk & disk doubler, various buckets, bins, bottles and jugs, I have about $600 invested in absolutely everything and from that I can load 11 different pistol calibers and 9 different rifle calibers.
I just ordered components today since I am finishing up a long run to get my personal inventory up to where I want it for the new year.
Cost per box of 50, all using range brass, Wolf primers, Titegroup powder & hard-cast lead projectiles:
9mm Luger: Projectile (125-gr RN) 4.3 cents, Powder 0.7 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $3.50/box. Savings over factory: $3.50/box. Annual savings $350.
.38 Special: Projectile (158-gr SWC) 4.4 cents, Powder 0.6 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $3.50/box. Savings over factory: $6.50/box. Annual savings $130.
.357 Magnum: Projectile (158-gr SWC) 4.4 cents, Powder 1.2 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $3.80/box. Savings over factory: $11.20/box. Annual savings $112.
.45 ACP: Projectile (230-gr RN) 5.6 cents, Powder .8 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $4.20/box. Savings over factor: $11.80/box. Annual savings $472.
.44 Magnum: Projectile (240-gr SWC) 5.6 cents, Powder 1.6 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $4.60/box. Savings over factory: $25.40/box. Annual savings $254.
That puts my this-year total savings, including buying components, at $1318.00 and I am not a gonzo shooter by any means shooting 10K mixed pistol per year. That's less than 200 rounds a week.
The-fly has given a good reason why one might own a Dillon. They are good workhorses and if you shoot thousands of rounds every month, they are a good value because you are amortizing that high cost over much more rounds of ammo, and making that many, you can't afford to screw around with a round getting a primer sideways every now and then.
If you shoot more recereationally like me, the Lee gear is good enough.
I would estimate I shoot maximum about 5000 9mm, 2000 .45acp, 500 .44magnum, 500 .357 magnum, and 1000 .38 specials a year. Not including .22's (Which I probably shooot 5000+ every year) or rifle, that's 10K rounds in a good year.
My total investment in equipment includes die sets- some I don't have guns for and probably never will (bought a package deal used)- but I would say with the Pro-1000, the 3-hole Lee turret press, spare press parts, Midway tumbler & separator, two powder measures, a powder trickler, reloading stand and bins, Lee scale, bullet puller, spare turret plates, spare carrier, calber conversion parts, spare powder measure discs and a micro disk & disk doubler, various buckets, bins, bottles and jugs, I have about $600 invested in absolutely everything and from that I can load 11 different pistol calibers and 9 different rifle calibers.
I just ordered components today since I am finishing up a long run to get my personal inventory up to where I want it for the new year.
Cost per box of 50, all using range brass, Wolf primers, Titegroup powder & hard-cast lead projectiles:
9mm Luger: Projectile (125-gr RN) 4.3 cents, Powder 0.7 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $3.50/box. Savings over factory: $3.50/box. Annual savings $350.
.38 Special: Projectile (158-gr SWC) 4.4 cents, Powder 0.6 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $3.50/box. Savings over factory: $6.50/box. Annual savings $130.
.357 Magnum: Projectile (158-gr SWC) 4.4 cents, Powder 1.2 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $3.80/box. Savings over factory: $11.20/box. Annual savings $112.
.45 ACP: Projectile (230-gr RN) 5.6 cents, Powder .8 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $4.20/box. Savings over factor: $11.80/box. Annual savings $472.
.44 Magnum: Projectile (240-gr SWC) 5.6 cents, Powder 1.6 cents, Primer 2 cents. Total: $4.60/box. Savings over factory: $25.40/box. Annual savings $254.
That puts my this-year total savings, including buying components, at $1318.00 and I am not a gonzo shooter by any means shooting 10K mixed pistol per year. That's less than 200 rounds a week.
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"The-Fly" I am wondering how you get your 1000 round cost for .223 at $125 average. That's about 12 cents a round. I only ask because the figures I came up with are about 15 cents a round, which is still really good, but if I can do better I am all for it. The 50gr bullets you mentioned, where do you get them...as for that where do you get all of your supplies? I am new to reloading as well and am looking for the best places to get components. there is a bunch I can get a the shows locally. But I don't want to get powder and primers online due to the haz mat shipping fee's. So if you can offer some advise of supply places that would be great.
The-Fly
Member
Sorry for the very late response here.
For 223....in 1000 round batches
Bullets - Hornady 55gr FMJ, from Powder Valley. With shipping, works out to about $60
Primers - Winchester or Wolf, either gun show, or BIG batch order from Powder Valley (if you buy enough, the hazmat fee isn't a killer). About $20 per 1000
Powder - currently using AA2230, but probably going to switch to Tac because it gives you a bit more room pressure wise to push it a bit. Takes about 3.5 pounds for 1000 rounds. I buy powder from Powder Valley in bulk (ala primers). With shipping and hazmat in the quantities I buy, 3.5 pounds runs me about $45.
So 60 + 20 +45 = 125
My next batch will probably be a bit more, $130-135ish, due to price increases.
For my 50gr varmint rounds, gun shows, midway, or powder valley (whoever is cheapest at the time).
Finally, the trick to online orders (particularly hazmat stuff) is to find a good price on it, and order a PILE of it. If you do it right, the shipping + hazmat fee will be less then sales tax.
For 223....in 1000 round batches
Bullets - Hornady 55gr FMJ, from Powder Valley. With shipping, works out to about $60
Primers - Winchester or Wolf, either gun show, or BIG batch order from Powder Valley (if you buy enough, the hazmat fee isn't a killer). About $20 per 1000
Powder - currently using AA2230, but probably going to switch to Tac because it gives you a bit more room pressure wise to push it a bit. Takes about 3.5 pounds for 1000 rounds. I buy powder from Powder Valley in bulk (ala primers). With shipping and hazmat in the quantities I buy, 3.5 pounds runs me about $45.
So 60 + 20 +45 = 125
My next batch will probably be a bit more, $130-135ish, due to price increases.
For my 50gr varmint rounds, gun shows, midway, or powder valley (whoever is cheapest at the time).
Finally, the trick to online orders (particularly hazmat stuff) is to find a good price on it, and order a PILE of it. If you do it right, the shipping + hazmat fee will be less then sales tax.
mokin
Member
I spend a lot more on ammunition now that I reload than I did before I reloaded but I shoot a lot more too. I was figuring out cost per round last night while loading some 10 mm. Not much of a saving. There isn't much saving on the 9 mm or .40 cal. either. I've really makes a difference on the hard to find and obsolete cartirdges like .303 British and 6.5 Carcano though. I probably made my money back the first year I owned the press on those cartridges.
jfh
Member.
Other than the fact that component cost is inflating wildly, in the final analysis one can build custom ammo for their firearm at noticably reduced cost. Of course, you can also build lousy ammo for the same cost.
The examples I cited earlier--I can build "replica rounds" (using LTCs) of my PD ammo to practice with. Save for bullet design, that round--which costs perhaps $.12, including case amortization, is every bit as good for SD practice as the PD ammo that costs a minimum of $.32 (bought in qty 1000). And, I can't buy that spec as a reloaded round, save for just hiring someone else to build it for me.
Or, for my 10mm loads: I can build a round, using a Speer / Hornady 180TMJ for perhaps $.24 a round, and that is one that accurate in my Kimber ST II to 2" at 50 yards. I can't buy 10mm match ammo for that price, or even buy 10mm 'match ammo' at all--the closest would be Rem UMC at 50 / 27.79 (Midway current price), or Fed American Eagle at $466.99 / 1000, plus shipping.
For plinking ammo, the cost benefit is much lower, I agree. To me, that simply means a reloader hasn't taken the time to sort out sweet spot recipes for the bullet he's bought.
Recently, jordan85 sorted out a comprehensive reloading kit built around the Classic Cast turret and including extra manuals and a scale upgrade--with shipping, it cost him about $425-450.00. FWIW, this is a kit that,were I starting over in buying reloading hardware today, I would buy--it will not be obsolete or inappropriate in the foreseeable future for him.
So, plug in the numbers for your own style of shooting--for me, using the two examples cited above, I would have paid for the hardware after about 500 rounds of the 38/357 PD practice ammo and 500 rounds of the 10mm 'match ammo.' Even with wintertime reduction in range time, that is perhaps two month's shooting time.
And, if you are making plinking ammo, take the time to accurize your recipe and really see the payback.
Jim H.
The examples I cited earlier--I can build "replica rounds" (using LTCs) of my PD ammo to practice with. Save for bullet design, that round--which costs perhaps $.12, including case amortization, is every bit as good for SD practice as the PD ammo that costs a minimum of $.32 (bought in qty 1000). And, I can't buy that spec as a reloaded round, save for just hiring someone else to build it for me.
Or, for my 10mm loads: I can build a round, using a Speer / Hornady 180TMJ for perhaps $.24 a round, and that is one that accurate in my Kimber ST II to 2" at 50 yards. I can't buy 10mm match ammo for that price, or even buy 10mm 'match ammo' at all--the closest would be Rem UMC at 50 / 27.79 (Midway current price), or Fed American Eagle at $466.99 / 1000, plus shipping.
For plinking ammo, the cost benefit is much lower, I agree. To me, that simply means a reloader hasn't taken the time to sort out sweet spot recipes for the bullet he's bought.
Recently, jordan85 sorted out a comprehensive reloading kit built around the Classic Cast turret and including extra manuals and a scale upgrade--with shipping, it cost him about $425-450.00. FWIW, this is a kit that,were I starting over in buying reloading hardware today, I would buy--it will not be obsolete or inappropriate in the foreseeable future for him.
So, plug in the numbers for your own style of shooting--for me, using the two examples cited above, I would have paid for the hardware after about 500 rounds of the 38/357 PD practice ammo and 500 rounds of the 10mm 'match ammo.' Even with wintertime reduction in range time, that is perhaps two month's shooting time.
And, if you are making plinking ammo, take the time to accurize your recipe and really see the payback.
Jim H.
K3
Member
Could somebody show an actual court case where the use of handloads mattered at all? One case?
Many have said 'Don't use handloads' and stated what a DA *could* or *might* do? Can one of the claimants of this actually cite a court case?
Why push it though? Lots of DA's try to make their mark and might grasp at anything. Just like the guy in Phoenix that got roasted for using SUPER deadly 10mm, they'll try to villian'ize you for anything. For the small amount of SD ammo you go through, just makes sense to go factory to me.
K3
Member
Again, where's the actual case(s)?
SUPER deadly ammo? I haven't heard of the guy in Phoenix. Link please?
What if your handloads use the same bullets as factory ammo but have a little less muzzle velocity?
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