reloading for a glock?

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Victor1Echo

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I was planning on reloading for my 21(45acp) and I saw this thread about a kaboomed glock. Someone made a comment about how you shouldn't reload for them because of some pressure issues.
SHOULD I BE CONCERNED THAT I AM RELOADING FOR A GLOCK?
This is the first I've heard of it and I do not want to go kaboom.
Thanks
 
I'm no longer a Glock owner, but in my view "No !" That is to say, it will be no more of a concern than reloading for any other gun. Obviously, all reloading requires concern, care, concentration, proper equipment, etc.

It is true that the 40S&W version of the Glock has had issues, and that Glock chambers are slightly looser than most other guns. BUT, you'll have several major factors on your side....

• Even at max, 45ACP is a very low pressure round
• If you're loading "target" or "practice" ammo then the pressures will not be anywhere near max
• You can use a "case gauge" ($12 Midway) to quickly spot brass that has been over-pressured, distorted, or is otherwise un-fit for reloading.

All the best.
 
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The main thing about reloading for Glocks is that you will void the factory warranty. The unsupported chamber also complicates things. Most people purchase an aftermarket barrel if they are going to reload but that also voids the warranty.
 
the manual and general wisdom say NO! to lead. however, you will find that many people shoot it with no problems in the factory barrel. they just clean it every 2 or 3 hundred rounds. I shot lead for a while out of a g17, then found a lone wolf barrel for 30 bucks on gunbroker.

rfwobbly makes good points. most kabooms were in 40 smith, and the 45 is a low pressure round.

my cousin shoots lead out of his 45 GAP no problem. but your gun might blow up. or it might work fine. how much do you like your fingers? I'd look for a lone wolf or storm lake barrel for $100 bucks or less and sleep easier at night personally.
 
I have been reloading for my G20 (10mm) for 2 years now without any problems at all. But I only use FMJ or copper plated bullets. No lead rounds. I've heard both sides on loading lead rounds and decided not to chance damaging my barrel. Even though I clean my gun after each use.
 
The basic problem with the Glock/lead issue is that Glock uses polygonal rifling in their barrels and lead bullets and polygonal rifling don't mix and therefore lead up and increase chamber pressure. That's why most reloaders will switch to an after market barrel when wanting to shoot lead for the cost savings. I owned and shoot over a 1000 rounds in a Glock 21 before getting rid of it...never had one leading problem shooting "Laser Cast" lead bullets.
 
I have some glocks that have only fired handloads, if you don't screw up they won't. Even the best of firearms don't like double charges.
 
The basic problem with the Glock/lead issue is that Glock uses polygonal rifling in their barrels and lead bullets and polygonal rifling don't mix and therefore lead up and increase chamber pressure.
I can understand that!
 
Polygon rifling works just peachy keen with lead bullets, but you need to use hard-cast lead bullets.

It actually has more to do with the early Glocks ability to fire out of battery by an 1/8" or so.
Lead/bullet lube/powder fouling build-up in the chamber headspace shoulder held the slide progressivly further out of battery and they would still fire.

#1 Rule. Clean them with a bore brush often, even though popular internet lore is,
Glocks don't never ever need to be cleaned.

I don't think you can find any current owners manual, from any manufacture, that doesn't say D0 Not to use reloads.

Bottom line is, there is no more reason not to reload for a Glock then for any other gun.

rc
 
What is interesting is that Glock is not the only gun maker using polygonal barrels. HK and others also use polygonal barrels and don't get as much attention.

I believe the focus should be made more on Glock's chamber-to-rifling transition area and early less supported chamber barrels (BTW, Glock barrels were never unsupported ;))

Build up of lead and fouling at the chamber-to-rifling transition is easily addressed by frequent monitoring and cleaning. If you have bulged cases due to early make barrels, you can replace with newer factory or aftermarket barrels with better chamber support. You can also reduce your powder charge while maintaining good cycling function of your Glock.

Be safe, informed and prepared - But don't forget to have fun.
 
I reload and shoot lead exclusively from my G21. I have a lonewolf barrel, but prefer the stock one. If you keep the pressure down, you will not have a leading issue. Do not load +p lead reloads to shoot out of it. I use Missouri bullets 230lrn and 200lswc through mine regularly, and it does well.

I wouldnt sweat it a whole lot, most people that make a big deal out of it are people that dont reload, or dont own a glock, or both.
 
Only thing I have ever heard about reloading and using the ammo in a Glock is to not use lead bullets. Glock recommends jacketed ammo with they way their barrels are made.

If you follow the recipe you should be fine.
 
Only thing I have ever heard about reloading and using the ammo in a Glock is to not use lead bullets. Glock recommends jacketed ammo with they way their barrels are made

Thats not set in stone. Anyone that knows how to reload, can reload lead for a glock. The lead thing was explained above, by RC. Lead is fine, just keep an eye on the leading of the bore, like you would any other pistol. My second loading for my G21 leaves less lead behind than any of the loads that I shoot in my 1911.

If you decide to get a lonewolf barrel, before they ship it tell them to ream it. Or send some dummy rounds that you load for another pistol to them and have them work the barrel to accept them. The rifling starts early to the chamber and is sharp, tending to require shorter OAL on many different lead bullets. They also make the chambers very tight, making reloading for them a slight pain at times with lead also.
 
The Lone Wolf barrels are so tight (I had a funny thought but will keep to myself) that I practically use them as case gauges (before and after seating the bullet). :)
 
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