Reloading Myths - Busted or Confirmed?
- Thread starter LiveLife
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EddieNFL said:
As I mentioned earlier, try measuring 400 cases fired in the same rifle, even with a match chamber, and see what kind of variance you end up with. It's not physically possible for a fired case to be the same size as the chamber.
1858, I had a gage like that once then I made my own gage, you could check the warranty or the money back guarantee. I have purchases as many as 400 cases at the range in 270, 30/06 and 280 Remington for .08 cents each then sat down and measure the length of the cases from the shoulder to the head of the case and match them to a chamber I do not have in groups of 20 and 40. I have checked the head space of a chamber in thousands then measure the the effect new ammo would have on offsetting head space in thousands, again I do not use head space gages because I do not shoot gages, I shoot ammo.
F. Guffey
F. Guffey
EddieNFL, I was talking about Hatcher's hypotheses, the one where he moved the shoulder of the chamber forward .080 thousands (whatever), chambered a round, fired it and.......Hatcher became a wildcatter and did not know it, he had no clue as to why the case did not have incipient case head separation, again a boring conversation starts with "Hatcher said". Hatcher could have scribed lines at the case body/shoulder juncture and at the shoulder neck/juncture of his cases before firing, he didn't, had he scribed lines on the case he would have known the case head did not leave the bolt face and the shoulder on the case did not move forward, the shoulder on his case when fired was erased when the case filled the chamber, the shoulder on his fired case was not the old shoulder, it was a new one. Hatcher assumed the case was driven forward by the firing pin and head space on the shoulder, he overlooked the possibility the extractor could be involved. Springfield nor Hatcher ever caught onto the possibility the exposed safety lug created a gap between the rear receiver ring and the back of the 3rd safety lug, in the real world the gap would close as the rifle 'bolt set back"? increased, as I have said "I am not a fan of Hatcher"
Then there is the other myth, the one says "All is forgiven if new cases are use because there is enough stretch in a new case to prevent incipient case head separation", in the real world I was informed I was wrong, a friend built 5 magnificent rifles all chambered in his version of a 7mm06 (modified/improved), he used 5 magnificent Remington 03A3 unissued rifles, he went to the range and tried to form 10 cases, 4 split/separated etc.. long story, but I told him if I had checked the rifles before he left his shop I could have told him there was a more than likely chance the cases could not be formed by simply chambering 7mm06 rounds, I informed him if I was at the range and discovered he had a case head separation caused by his methods I could have corrected the problem after the first event, I explained to him Hatcher had a hypotheses, Hatcher in his attempt to prove his hypotheses picked the wrong rifle, I then informed my friend he picked the correct rifle to prove Hatcher's hypotheses BUT WITH 5 RIFLES DO NOT EXPECT THE SAME OUTCOME.
One great thing about the Springfield 03 type rifles, I can close the bolt on the next round to be fired, check the head space in thousands, fire the case then check spring back, open the bolt eject the case and verify my measurements, everything before ejecting is done with the companion tool to the press, the feeler gage.
Or you can be waiting at an intersectiom, waiting for the light to change THEN!!!! before the light changes, get hit from the rear, when I am standing at an intersection when this happens I can pick out the reloaders (if they are in the auto in front), they check the front bumper WHY? When hit from the rear the first part to be crushed is the rear bumper, if the front bumber is crushed from a rear end collision the driver is not likely to be able to get out without help. The ideal the bullet, powder and case can accellerate to a speed that would allow their little buddy, the primer, from being crushed by the firing pin defies logic.
And the rear bumper is destroied before rest of the auto moves or catches up with the speed of the crumbling bumper.
F. Guffey
Then there is the other myth, the one says "All is forgiven if new cases are use because there is enough stretch in a new case to prevent incipient case head separation", in the real world I was informed I was wrong, a friend built 5 magnificent rifles all chambered in his version of a 7mm06 (modified/improved), he used 5 magnificent Remington 03A3 unissued rifles, he went to the range and tried to form 10 cases, 4 split/separated etc.. long story, but I told him if I had checked the rifles before he left his shop I could have told him there was a more than likely chance the cases could not be formed by simply chambering 7mm06 rounds, I informed him if I was at the range and discovered he had a case head separation caused by his methods I could have corrected the problem after the first event, I explained to him Hatcher had a hypotheses, Hatcher in his attempt to prove his hypotheses picked the wrong rifle, I then informed my friend he picked the correct rifle to prove Hatcher's hypotheses BUT WITH 5 RIFLES DO NOT EXPECT THE SAME OUTCOME.
One great thing about the Springfield 03 type rifles, I can close the bolt on the next round to be fired, check the head space in thousands, fire the case then check spring back, open the bolt eject the case and verify my measurements, everything before ejecting is done with the companion tool to the press, the feeler gage.
Or you can be waiting at an intersectiom, waiting for the light to change THEN!!!! before the light changes, get hit from the rear, when I am standing at an intersection when this happens I can pick out the reloaders (if they are in the auto in front), they check the front bumper WHY? When hit from the rear the first part to be crushed is the rear bumper, if the front bumber is crushed from a rear end collision the driver is not likely to be able to get out without help. The ideal the bullet, powder and case can accellerate to a speed that would allow their little buddy, the primer, from being crushed by the firing pin defies logic.
And the rear bumper is destroied before rest of the auto moves or catches up with the speed of the crumbling bumper.
F. Guffey
OP
OP
LiveLife
Member
Wow, I recently started reloading .223/.308 and spent the past 6 months soaking up information at The Rifleman's Journal/various rifle forums. But the depth of discussions makes me wonder that I have just barely scratched the surface! 
MYTH #16 - For reloads shot in the same bolt rifle, neck sizing only, produces superior ammunition (velocity SD, accuracy and precision) compared to full-length sizing.
In regards to Myth #16, at first I thought that neck sizing only would produce more accurate loads in the same bolt rifle as fire-formed cases would provide more consistent chamber pressures on subsequent firings compared to new brass that may expand inconsistently on first firing. Well, I am gonna have to ponder this one. Anyone done actual testing with comparison shot groups between neck/full-length sizing?
So, is this myth #17?
MYTH #17 - All is forgiven if new cases are used because there is enough stretch in a new case to prevent incipient case head separation.
MYTH #1A - Shooting residue in barrel will wear steel barrels - CONFIRMED: Shooting residue (carbon, ash, grit, etc.) may get harder than regular steel barrel surface and scratch/wear if left in the barrel.
MYTH #1B - Shooting residue in barrel may wear surface hardened barrels (Glock Tennifer/M&P Melonite).
MYTH #2 - When scrubbing leading out of barrels, you should only use copper scrubbing pad material, not copper plated steel/stainless steel.
MYTH #3 - WD40 will remove bluing on metal - BUSTED: Per WD-40 company.
MYTH #4 - Glock/M&P barrels are coated with Tennifer/Melonite - BUSTED: They are surface hardening treatments not finish coating.
MYTH #5 - 5.56 Military brass has less case capacity than Commercial 223 brass.
MYTH #6 - Reduced OAL on bottle neck rifle rounds will increase pressure.
MYTH #7 - The people who reply to your post really care about your problem, issue, opinion.
MYTH #8 - To achieve top velocity you use a faster burning propellant for short barrels and slower for long
MYTH #9 - Using Lee Powder Dippers results is inaccurate and dangerous ammo.
MYTH #10 - WD 40 is a great cleaner
MYTH #11 - Crimped ammunition is more consistent (started by a certain die manufacturer)
MYTH #12 - If you store smokeless powder (15lb. or less) in approved containers in your garage or in a closet, it is likely to explode if the garage or house catches on fire - BUSTED (Anyone in disagreement?)
MYTH #13 - A hand loader should never use a powder charge greater than the maximum shown in the reloading manual or in the reloading data produced by the powder manufacturer - CONFIRMED for THR mods
MYTH #14 - A careful handloader can usually produce ammo that shoots with more precision (smaller groups) than factory ammo - CONFIRMED - I know Black Hill's ammo shoots well, but aren't blue boxes reloads?
MYTH #15 - Some ranchers, traditional healers, and alternative medicine healers use WD40 to relieve joint pain and stiffness by spraying it directly on their knees, elbows, shoulders, wrists, or other joints. <I don't know about this ... anyone tried WD40 on your joints?>
MYTH #16 - For reloads shot in the same bolt rifle, neck sizing only, produces superior ammunition (velocity SD, accuracy and precision) compared to full-length sizing.
MYTH #16 - For reloads shot in the same bolt rifle, neck sizing only, produces superior ammunition (velocity SD, accuracy and precision) compared to full-length sizing.
In regards to Myth #16, at first I thought that neck sizing only would produce more accurate loads in the same bolt rifle as fire-formed cases would provide more consistent chamber pressures on subsequent firings compared to new brass that may expand inconsistently on first firing. Well, I am gonna have to ponder this one. Anyone done actual testing with comparison shot groups between neck/full-length sizing?
So, is this myth #17?
MYTH #17 - All is forgiven if new cases are used because there is enough stretch in a new case to prevent incipient case head separation.
MYTH #1A - Shooting residue in barrel will wear steel barrels - CONFIRMED: Shooting residue (carbon, ash, grit, etc.) may get harder than regular steel barrel surface and scratch/wear if left in the barrel.
MYTH #1B - Shooting residue in barrel may wear surface hardened barrels (Glock Tennifer/M&P Melonite).
MYTH #2 - When scrubbing leading out of barrels, you should only use copper scrubbing pad material, not copper plated steel/stainless steel.
MYTH #3 - WD40 will remove bluing on metal - BUSTED: Per WD-40 company.
MYTH #4 - Glock/M&P barrels are coated with Tennifer/Melonite - BUSTED: They are surface hardening treatments not finish coating.
MYTH #5 - 5.56 Military brass has less case capacity than Commercial 223 brass.
MYTH #6 - Reduced OAL on bottle neck rifle rounds will increase pressure.
MYTH #7 - The people who reply to your post really care about your problem, issue, opinion.
MYTH #8 - To achieve top velocity you use a faster burning propellant for short barrels and slower for long
MYTH #9 - Using Lee Powder Dippers results is inaccurate and dangerous ammo.
MYTH #10 - WD 40 is a great cleaner
MYTH #11 - Crimped ammunition is more consistent (started by a certain die manufacturer)
MYTH #12 - If you store smokeless powder (15lb. or less) in approved containers in your garage or in a closet, it is likely to explode if the garage or house catches on fire - BUSTED (Anyone in disagreement?)
MYTH #13 - A hand loader should never use a powder charge greater than the maximum shown in the reloading manual or in the reloading data produced by the powder manufacturer - CONFIRMED for THR mods
MYTH #14 - A careful handloader can usually produce ammo that shoots with more precision (smaller groups) than factory ammo - CONFIRMED - I know Black Hill's ammo shoots well, but aren't blue boxes reloads?
MYTH #15 - Some ranchers, traditional healers, and alternative medicine healers use WD40 to relieve joint pain and stiffness by spraying it directly on their knees, elbows, shoulders, wrists, or other joints. <I don't know about this ... anyone tried WD40 on your joints?>
MYTH #16 - For reloads shot in the same bolt rifle, neck sizing only, produces superior ammunition (velocity SD, accuracy and precision) compared to full-length sizing.
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R.W.Dale
Member
I just remembered that I had done a small test of neck sized ammo vs FL resized a few years back.
Early model 1-12 twist CZ527 KV
53g Sierra hp
26.0g H335
CCI #41 primer
2.2" col
3383 fps average
M193 cases (sorted)
The red dot reflects cases with only 2/3rds of the neck resized and the others are FL resized
IMO no dramatic diffrence
Tapatalk post via IPhone.
Ever measure cases from autos? Particularly ARs. They're generally longer than the chamber.
[QUOTEMYTH #15 - Some ranchers, traditional healers, and alternative medicine healers use WD40 to relieve joint pain and stiffness by spraying it directly on their knees, elbows, shoulders, wrists, or other joints. <I don't know about this ... anyone tried WD40 on your joints?>
][/QUOTE]
Year ago they were using WD 40 as a carrying agent to get DMSO into the joins for arthritis. I know it was big deal back in the late 70's. (I am old)
If DMSO helped I have no idea!!
Greg
][/QUOTE]
Year ago they were using WD 40 as a carrying agent to get DMSO into the joins for arthritis. I know it was big deal back in the late 70's. (I am old)
If DMSO helped I have no idea!!
Greg
fguffey said:
So let me get this straight, a car hitting another stationary car from the rear is the same as a firing pin hitting a primer of a cartridge in the chamber of a rifle? First off, have you heard of static and kinetic friction? Second, shouldn't there be an immovable object about 0.5" in front of the first car (to represent 0.004" between the datum on the cartridge and chamber ... assume car is 15ft long)? Third, shouldn't the road be covered in ice to better represent the coefficient of static friction between brass and steel? Fourth, shouldn't the ratios of the kinetic energy of the moving car to the inertia of the stationary car be the same as the ratio of the kinetic energy of the firing pin and the inertia of the cartridge?
This is why ridiculous automotive analogies are just that ... ridiculous!!
EddieNFL said:
Yes ... but we're talking about BOLT action rifles here since no one neck sizes for a semi-auto. Also, the reason why cases often stretch in a semi-auto has nothing to do with this discussion.
Regarding this myth - a while back, I conducted a back-to-back comparison of crimped vs uncrimped ammo in my Krag. My load is 19 gr of SR4759 under the Lee C312-1851R bullet cast from 100% WW. The loads were identical except that one set was crimped and one was not (using the Lee FCD). I shot 10 rounds of each at 100 yards. I also alternated shots between crimped and uncrimped so that barrel heating, fouling, etc. equally affected both groups. The crimped ammo grouped considerably better than uncrimped. I don't have the exact numbers with me here, but the results were something like 2.5" for uncrimped and 1.5" for crimped.
I have never done this back to back test with any other cartridge, but I do crimp all my cast bullet loads (.30-40, .30-06, .303 Brit and .45-70). Someday, I need to do a rigorous test with jacketed bullets.
1858, there are times I make an attempt to provoke someone to think, there are times when I have 100% success, other times I enjoy a 50% success rate, as in your case, I did not provoke you to think but it appears I just simply provoked you. Provoking you was not my intent, again I had a micrometer like the one you described where readings were all over the place and no conclusion could be made based on the results, well you drew a conclusion, your conclusion went something like 'if I can not do it no one can do it'. Just my opinion but to me that sounds vain, vain because I said I made a tool and you did not ask me how a home made tool works (for me) better than your $40.00 dollar tool, the next time you use the gage measure one case 10 times after that measure the case before sizing, after sizing and again after firing, if you choose to separate brass as in weight, head stamp and length from the head of the case to it's shoulder, use the gage for the length part, again I am a fan of cutting down on all that case travel, any one can move the shoulder forward, chamber and fire, moving the shoulder back is the difficult part. Me? I purchase once fired brass and hope most of it has been fired in a trashy ol' chamber, that would be one that has additional head space. With the additional case length from the head of the case to it's shoulder all I have to know is where to put the shoulder when sizing.
Back to the primer being crushed, again not my intent to build booby traps into responses, I will never deny the practice nor will I put effort into the attempt, rational? Boobies are too easy to catch, it is impossible to take you serious based on your last response, like your micrometer, it gives you results with no value as trash in-trash out, try to keep up with two thoughts at once, I believe your micrometer used to measure the 400 cases was correct, and as sure as I am your micrometer was correct I am equally sure you misunderstood the results. it is possible you know all you will ever know, or you know all you want to know, not my problem, again the only reason I would measure 400 cases for case length is to sort cases for length from the head of the case to it's shoulder, when it comes to sizing cases that fit a chamber from the bolt face to the shoulder I need long cases.
Long cases, my favorite case is the 280 Remington. The benefit? the 280 Remington shoulder is forward of the 30/06 shoulder .051 thousands. With .051 thousands additional length a reloader should be able to size case that fits the chamber on any 06 family of chambers, the extra length of the 30/06 case can be used to form cases that are shorter then the 30/06 as in 7mm57, 8mm57, 308 W etc., etc.. And NO, I did not say the formed cases should be used for loading, I am saying those that have gages should learn how to use them, once a case has been sized and fits the chamber use the case as a standard to adjust the the gage to .000, then when sizing cases check the cases for length as in determining the effect the case has on offsetting head space.
Putting a dent in a primer: try working with time-distance (speed), diameter, squared, .7854 etc., forgive, do not forget weight and no the primer is not solid, I understood the question, you are under no obligation to make an effort to understand the answer, but when explaining accuracy in lofty terms things fall apart when the explanation starts out with "The first thing that happens is the trigger is pulled, the next thing that happens is the firing pin strikes the primer and drives the case, bullet, powder and primer forward before the firing pin crushes the primer"
F. Guffey
Back to the primer being crushed, again not my intent to build booby traps into responses, I will never deny the practice nor will I put effort into the attempt, rational? Boobies are too easy to catch, it is impossible to take you serious based on your last response, like your micrometer, it gives you results with no value as trash in-trash out, try to keep up with two thoughts at once, I believe your micrometer used to measure the 400 cases was correct, and as sure as I am your micrometer was correct I am equally sure you misunderstood the results. it is possible you know all you will ever know, or you know all you want to know, not my problem, again the only reason I would measure 400 cases for case length is to sort cases for length from the head of the case to it's shoulder, when it comes to sizing cases that fit a chamber from the bolt face to the shoulder I need long cases.
Long cases, my favorite case is the 280 Remington. The benefit? the 280 Remington shoulder is forward of the 30/06 shoulder .051 thousands. With .051 thousands additional length a reloader should be able to size case that fits the chamber on any 06 family of chambers, the extra length of the 30/06 case can be used to form cases that are shorter then the 30/06 as in 7mm57, 8mm57, 308 W etc., etc.. And NO, I did not say the formed cases should be used for loading, I am saying those that have gages should learn how to use them, once a case has been sized and fits the chamber use the case as a standard to adjust the the gage to .000, then when sizing cases check the cases for length as in determining the effect the case has on offsetting head space.
Putting a dent in a primer: try working with time-distance (speed), diameter, squared, .7854 etc., forgive, do not forget weight and no the primer is not solid, I understood the question, you are under no obligation to make an effort to understand the answer, but when explaining accuracy in lofty terms things fall apart when the explanation starts out with "The first thing that happens is the trigger is pulled, the next thing that happens is the firing pin strikes the primer and drives the case, bullet, powder and primer forward before the firing pin crushes the primer"
F. Guffey
#18
#18: Using a vaccum cleaner to clean up spilled powder is dangerous.
That is what I'd heard over and over, and I've used nothing but brooms, brushes, and such. I've recently heard several folks saying they've been using vaccums for years with no issues. It'd sure be nice to use a shop vac for minor spills. I'm not talking about sucking up a pound of powder here, just the incidental grains here and there.
What say ye?
#18: Using a vaccum cleaner to clean up spilled powder is dangerous.
That is what I'd heard over and over, and I've used nothing but brooms, brushes, and such. I've recently heard several folks saying they've been using vaccums for years with no issues. It'd sure be nice to use a shop vac for minor spills. I'm not talking about sucking up a pound of powder here, just the incidental grains here and there.
What say ye?
jcwit
member
For the life of me I can't see how a few grains or even a full charg for a 30/06 would create a problem with a shop vac.
Take 10 grains of powder and put it on the sidewalk, take powder container and put it back in the house, light the 10 grains with a match, this stuff is fairly harmless, it classified as a flammable not an explosive.
Now Black Powder is a whole nother animal.
Take 10 grains of powder and put it on the sidewalk, take powder container and put it back in the house, light the 10 grains with a match, this stuff is fairly harmless, it classified as a flammable not an explosive.
Now Black Powder is a whole nother animal.
Nope, before the pressure builds enough to swell the front half of the case to grab and seal the chamber walls as it is supposed to.
By this time the round is forward in the chamber. This is why cases stretch and eventually become thin where they do, just in front of the web of the case where the thick brass wall meets the thinner part.
The cartridge is forward in the chamber, the softer annealed, front portion is expanded holding that part of the case from slipping in the chamber, while the non annealed, harder rear part of the case stretches backwards until the breech stops it. That is why we must not have excessive headspace, and why the cases eventually get thin where they do.
Anyone is, of course, welcome to disagree.
fguffey, your erroneous and misleading automotive analogies and generals ramblings about your "constant companion the feeler gauge" remind me of how much I miss the articulate and well thought out explanations of Bart B. Now there was someone who actually knew what he was talking about, and had commensurate shooting success to back up his rhetoric. IIRC, he was with the AMU at one point and had won championships on a national level.
When Bart B. began discussing the differences between neck sizing and full length sizing a couple of years ago, I had been neck sizing only for almost fifteen years. He convinced me to actually think about what was going on rather than blindly accept what many had told me. I made a post a few years back showing results using new brass and USSR (Don) made a comment that many shooters find that new brass gives excellent results. Bart B. and USSR "provoked" thought and I took that information and my F-Class (F-TR) scores improved to the point that I began to win matches and stages. I used to find the 15-shots in 15 minutes at 300 yards very intimidating since the 10 ring is only 2.8" in diameter (X ring 1.4") but I managed a 149-4X in windy conditions to win a match last year. No one else got close to that score at 300 yards and I had never got close to that score with neck sizing only. So you can continue to ramble all you like about feeler gauges and the like, and maybe you'll convince some folks that you're a reloading genius. I'll continue to learn from members like Bart B, USSR, Walkalong, rcmodel and follow the example of world record holders like Ken Brucklacher.
As for the myth ... do what works for you. But if you're not winning, you may want to question your methods.
When Bart B. began discussing the differences between neck sizing and full length sizing a couple of years ago, I had been neck sizing only for almost fifteen years. He convinced me to actually think about what was going on rather than blindly accept what many had told me. I made a post a few years back showing results using new brass and USSR (Don) made a comment that many shooters find that new brass gives excellent results. Bart B. and USSR "provoked" thought and I took that information and my F-Class (F-TR) scores improved to the point that I began to win matches and stages. I used to find the 15-shots in 15 minutes at 300 yards very intimidating since the 10 ring is only 2.8" in diameter (X ring 1.4") but I managed a 149-4X in windy conditions to win a match last year. No one else got close to that score at 300 yards and I had never got close to that score with neck sizing only. So you can continue to ramble all you like about feeler gauges and the like, and maybe you'll convince some folks that you're a reloading genius. I'll continue to learn from members like Bart B, USSR, Walkalong, rcmodel and follow the example of world record holders like Ken Brucklacher.
As for the myth ... do what works for you. But if you're not winning, you may want to question your methods.
"MYTH #12 - If you store smokeless powder (15lb. or less) in approved containers in your garage or in a closet, it is likely to explode if the garage or house catches on fire - BUSTED (Anyone in disagreement?)"
I just can't leave this one alone anymore.
When you close the bottle it becomes an explosive. However the bottle will come apart at a very low pressure.
ex·plo·sion
(ĭk-splō'zhən)
n.
Read more: http://www.answers.com/topic/explosion#ixzz1HSRZ1uxK
"For the life of me I can't see how a few grains or even a full charg for a 30/06 would create a problem with a shop vac.
Take 10 grains of powder and put it on the sidewalk, take powder container and put it back in the house, light the 10 grains with a match, this stuff is fairly harmless, it classified as a flammable not an explosive.
Now Black Powder is a whole nother animal."
I have the same thoughts.
#19 If you use powder that fills less then half the case the blast of the primer can blow the powder up against the bottom of the bullet causing the pressure to be forced back into the case forcing the bolt back causing a KABOOM.
People sometimes make up ridicules stories to keep from admitting they did something wrong.
I just can't leave this one alone anymore.
When you close the bottle it becomes an explosive. However the bottle will come apart at a very low pressure.
ex·plo·sion
(ĭk-splō'zhən)
n.
- A release of mechanical, chemical, or nuclear energy in a sudden and often violent manner with the generation of high temperature and usually with the release of gases.
- A violent bursting as a result of internal pressure.
- The loud, sharp sound made as a result of either of these actions.
- A sudden, often vehement outburst: an explosion of rage.
- A sudden, great increase: a population explosion; the explosion of illegal drug use.
- Linguistics. See plosion.
Read more: http://www.answers.com/topic/explosion#ixzz1HSRZ1uxK
"For the life of me I can't see how a few grains or even a full charg for a 30/06 would create a problem with a shop vac.
Take 10 grains of powder and put it on the sidewalk, take powder container and put it back in the house, light the 10 grains with a match, this stuff is fairly harmless, it classified as a flammable not an explosive.
Now Black Powder is a whole nother animal."
I have the same thoughts.
#19 If you use powder that fills less then half the case the blast of the primer can blow the powder up against the bottom of the bullet causing the pressure to be forced back into the case forcing the bolt back causing a KABOOM.
People sometimes make up ridicules stories to keep from admitting they did something wrong.
I saw a post/thread/study a few years ago by a guy that did some static electricity tests with smokeless powder. He tried to ignite the powders with several different types of static and household electricity and could not get it to ignite. I would post a link, but I can't find it.
Master Blaster
Member
Here's are my Myths:
People on Gun forums on the internet know more about reloading, and what loads are safe than, Lyman, Speer, Hornady, Or Ruger.
You can way overload a round and fire it Ruger Double action revolver safely.
Its a good idea to go beyond data published in the Lyman, Speer, and Hornady manuals and disregard whcih firearms they say can safely fire a Ruger only load (hint only the SA Rugers Blackhawks and Super blackhawks, are really safe for these loads)
You will spend less money on ammo and shooting if you reload your own ammo.
People on Gun forums on the internet know more about reloading, and what loads are safe than, Lyman, Speer, Hornady, Or Ruger.
You can way overload a round and fire it Ruger Double action revolver safely.
Its a good idea to go beyond data published in the Lyman, Speer, and Hornady manuals and disregard whcih firearms they say can safely fire a Ruger only load (hint only the SA Rugers Blackhawks and Super blackhawks, are really safe for these loads)
You will spend less money on ammo and shooting if you reload your own ammo.
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Myth # 17 I believe.
Static Electricity from a vacuum cleaner can set off powder.
Here is a test and the results.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/sparks/sparks.html
Static Electricity from a vacuum cleaner can set off powder.
Here is a test and the results.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/sparks/sparks.html
OP
OP
LiveLife
Member
Oh boy, I am beginning to think that we need to add "PLAUSIBLE" to our BUSTED/CONFIRMED conclusions. So, here's an update:
MYTH #1A - Shooting residue in barrel will wear steel barrels - CONFIRMED: Shooting residue (carbon, ash, grit, etc.) may get harder than regular steel barrel surface and scratch/wear if left in the barrel.
MYTH #1B - Shooting residue in barrel may wear surface hardened barrels (Glock Tennifer/M&P Melonite).
MYTH #2 - When scrubbing leading out of barrels, you should only use copper scrubbing pad material, not copper plated steel/stainless steel.
MYTH #3 - WD40 will remove bluing on metal - BUSTED: Per WD-40 company.
MYTH #4 - Glock/M&P barrels are coated with Tennifer/Melonite - BUSTED: They are surface hardening treatments not finish coating.
MYTH #5 - 5.56 Military brass has less case capacity than Commercial 223 brass.
MYTH #6 - Reduced OAL on bottle neck rifle rounds will increase pressure.
MYTH #7 - The people who reply to your post really care about your problem, issue, opinion - PLAUSIBLE? I have seen both sides of posts.
MYTH #8 - To achieve top velocity you use a faster burning propellant for short barrels and slower for long
MYTH #9 - Using Lee Powder Dippers results is inaccurate and dangerous ammo.
MYTH #10 - WD 40 is a great cleaner
MYTH #11 - Crimped ammunition is more consistent (started by a certain die manufacturer) - PLAUSIBLE or CONFIRMED? Voting open.
MYTH #12 - If you store smokeless powder (15lb. or less) in approved containers in your garage or in a closet, it is likely to explode if the garage or house catches on fire - PLAUSIBLE? Or should we better qualify by adding "won't cause a big/severe explosion"?
MYTH #13 - A hand loader should never use a powder charge greater than the maximum shown in the reloading manual or in the reloading data produced by the powder manufacturer - CONFIRMED for THR mods
MYTH #14 - A careful handloader can usually produce ammo that shoots with more precision (smaller groups) than factory ammo - CONFIRMED - I know Black Hill's ammo shoots well, but aren't blue boxes reloads?
MYTH #15 - Some ranchers, traditional healers, and alternative medicine healers use WD40 to relieve joint pain and stiffness by spraying it directly on their knees, elbows, shoulders, wrists, or other joints. <I don't know about this ... anyone tried WD40 on your joints?>
MYTH #16 - For reloads shot in the same bolt rifle, neck sizing only, produces superior ammunition (velocity SD, accuracy and precision) compared to full-length sizing.
MYTH #17 - All is forgiven if new cases are used because there is enough stretch in a new case to prevent incipient case head separation.
MYTH #18 - Static electricity from a vacuum cleaner can set off powder/Using a vacuum cleaner to clean up spilled powder is dangerous - PLAUSIBLE? Or should we better qualify by adding "with some powders"?
MYTH #19 - If you use powder that fills less then half the case the blast of the primer can blow the powder up against the bottom of the bullet causing the pressure to be forced back into the case forcing the bolt back causing a KABOOM - PLAUSIBLE? Or should we better qualify by adding "with some powders"?
MYTH #20 - People on Gun forums on the internet know more about reloading, and what loads are safe than, Lyman, Speer, Hornady, Or Ruger - PLAUSIBLE? I hear THR mods debating ...
MYTH #1A - Shooting residue in barrel will wear steel barrels - CONFIRMED: Shooting residue (carbon, ash, grit, etc.) may get harder than regular steel barrel surface and scratch/wear if left in the barrel.
MYTH #1B - Shooting residue in barrel may wear surface hardened barrels (Glock Tennifer/M&P Melonite).
MYTH #2 - When scrubbing leading out of barrels, you should only use copper scrubbing pad material, not copper plated steel/stainless steel.
MYTH #3 - WD40 will remove bluing on metal - BUSTED: Per WD-40 company.
MYTH #4 - Glock/M&P barrels are coated with Tennifer/Melonite - BUSTED: They are surface hardening treatments not finish coating.
MYTH #5 - 5.56 Military brass has less case capacity than Commercial 223 brass.
MYTH #6 - Reduced OAL on bottle neck rifle rounds will increase pressure.
MYTH #7 - The people who reply to your post really care about your problem, issue, opinion - PLAUSIBLE? I have seen both sides of posts.
MYTH #8 - To achieve top velocity you use a faster burning propellant for short barrels and slower for long
MYTH #9 - Using Lee Powder Dippers results is inaccurate and dangerous ammo.
MYTH #10 - WD 40 is a great cleaner
MYTH #11 - Crimped ammunition is more consistent (started by a certain die manufacturer) - PLAUSIBLE or CONFIRMED? Voting open.
MYTH #12 - If you store smokeless powder (15lb. or less) in approved containers in your garage or in a closet, it is likely to explode if the garage or house catches on fire - PLAUSIBLE? Or should we better qualify by adding "won't cause a big/severe explosion"?
MYTH #13 - A hand loader should never use a powder charge greater than the maximum shown in the reloading manual or in the reloading data produced by the powder manufacturer - CONFIRMED for THR mods
MYTH #14 - A careful handloader can usually produce ammo that shoots with more precision (smaller groups) than factory ammo - CONFIRMED - I know Black Hill's ammo shoots well, but aren't blue boxes reloads?
MYTH #15 - Some ranchers, traditional healers, and alternative medicine healers use WD40 to relieve joint pain and stiffness by spraying it directly on their knees, elbows, shoulders, wrists, or other joints. <I don't know about this ... anyone tried WD40 on your joints?>
MYTH #16 - For reloads shot in the same bolt rifle, neck sizing only, produces superior ammunition (velocity SD, accuracy and precision) compared to full-length sizing.
MYTH #17 - All is forgiven if new cases are used because there is enough stretch in a new case to prevent incipient case head separation.
MYTH #18 - Static electricity from a vacuum cleaner can set off powder/Using a vacuum cleaner to clean up spilled powder is dangerous - PLAUSIBLE? Or should we better qualify by adding "with some powders"?
MYTH #19 - If you use powder that fills less then half the case the blast of the primer can blow the powder up against the bottom of the bullet causing the pressure to be forced back into the case forcing the bolt back causing a KABOOM - PLAUSIBLE? Or should we better qualify by adding "with some powders"?
MYTH #20 - People on Gun forums on the internet know more about reloading, and what loads are safe than, Lyman, Speer, Hornady, Or Ruger - PLAUSIBLE? I hear THR mods debating ...
jcwit
member
Its my understanding this normally happens with rifle calibers with slow powders.
Its also my understanding it has never been replicated in a lab.
OP
OP
LiveLife
Member
Really? Hmmm ... plot thickens for Myth #19.
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