reloading set up for 5.56 OR .223 Remington

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hi everyone, flexible here. I'm returning to this post after a rather long delay. Some serious health issues in the family.
I've partially set up Redding National Match dies in my Dillon 550B. I have the powder drop/die, and the bullet seating die set up just fine BUT - when i use the FL I got some binding on the downstroke (I had used Hornady One Shot to lube) but after using Crown case lube the noise and binding went away BUT now the cases are sticky. I don't want to dry media tumble all these again.
QUESTION; Do the dies need to get broken in (build up of lube) or is it the expander button working? My other rifle load setups i have removed the expander button.
2nd Question: how to set up the Redding taper crimp die? just trial & error?
thanks
flexible
 
The dies don’t need break in.
The cases do need to be lubed inside the mouth, to prevent binding and pulling the neck out of alignment. When you spray the cases be sure to get some inside the neck.
The expander does it’s job when the case is pulled out of the die. It will feel different than without one, like it’s dragging out.

I am one of those strange shooters that doesn’t use a crimp on my rifle rounds. Neck tension is what holds a bullet, and a crimp ruins tension.

Take a finished round and run it up in the press. Turn the die body down until you feel contact. It is now touching the mouth of the case. Turning it down more will crimp it. Turning it out will move it away from the case.
A rifle cartridge headspaces on the shoulder. Instead of a taper crimp, a cannelured bullet should be used, and with a roll crimp. A taper crimp is more for removing a case flare after seating pistol bullets. A rifle shouldn’t need it.

But there are several different ways to skin a cat.;)
 
Hi everyone, been reloading pistol for decades and rifle for over a year. Finally figured out what I'm doing in rifle (6.5 Creedmoor & 6mm PPC) fireforming brass, using the Hornady Lock & Load gauge & the Sinclair head/shoulder space gauge.
BUT, I have a S&W M&P in 5.56/223 that I have a lot of used brass for - it used to be cheaper to buy than reload.
Any suggestions for set up? I don't want to get as crazy as my loading for the Creedmoor or 6mm PPC but don't mind spending a few bucks - i have $300 in credit at Brownells.
I have a Dillon 550C i use for pistol (but with an extra head i could put dies in) and a Redding T7 i use for rifle.
BTW, dumb question are the dies for 5.56 & 223 different?
thanks
flexible

First, the dies...unless you go out of your way to find a 5.56 specific die, it's gonna be .223. From a reloaders perspective, the difference is going to be if you buy 5.56 stamped brass, .223 stamped brass, and what load data you use (service rifle, nato, or .223).

Second, for the M&P, your best bet is to buy a "small base" die set, or sizing die. There are lots of options out there, but you'll likely save yourself some grief with the small base die. Since much of your saved up brass is like surplus and crimped, you'll also need some method of reaming/swaging the pocket to remove the military crimp. There are tons of threads on this, I use the dillon super swager, but there are many opinions, and lots of good products. I would say stay away from the swage it for the 550, it's simply not worthwhile, and it's hard on your press.

Finally, the 550 will be fine for .223, I've loaded thousands of rounds of .223 on one.

Todays big challenge is finding components. H335 has come up on powder valley and midway, it's a good powder for 55 grain..and "ok" for 62 grain and up. That and Shooter's World Tactical Rifle are the only AR/.223 powders I've seen in decent amounts in months. Grafs has Tac Rifle right now, it's also a good one. RMR has bullets in bulk. Grafs has lots of .224 options as well. Primers..well, you're on your own there. Though Small Rifle has been showing up pretty regularly at all the normal places so you shouldn't have a big problem.
 
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