Reloads for building reserves (cost discussion)

[JWarren]

Hi,

I'm going to ask a question that has been asked numerous times on here regarding cost savings of reloading-- but with a couple twists. I did use the search function, but I'd like to get a fresh perspective considering the current costs of the alternatives. So, please don't jump on my too hard for being redundant.


In light of the current ammunition cost issues, I was wondering if reloading is a viable option to stock up on ammunition.

By stocking up, I mean building up a surplus in storage-- not necessarily to shoot, reload, and shoot again. I'm basically talking about building up your reserve above and beyond your current shooting needs.

I was playing around on Midway USA recently, and it seemed rather steep on components.

The calibers I'd be interested in reloading for are:

7.62x51 NATO (308 Win)
7.62x39
9 mm
223. (MAYBE in the future)

One reason I'd consider reloading these calibers is that cost may well rise again on them. Furthermore, a lot of cases will be steel case or berdan primed (or both). I had considered that it may be beneficial to begin developing a surplus of rounds loaded on brass cases and boxer primed for future use if there becomes some type of importation regulation.

As it is, I am leaning towards the understanding that, for stockpiling purposes, it would probably be most economical to simply purchase the 7.62x39 and 9mm in cheap bulk while having a lesser supply of reloadable cased rounds.

I have no idea about the current status of 223, and really I don't know that I'd ever get into this.

308 will probably be my biggest concern. As it is, we are looking at the mid 250's to 300 per 1000 rounds of run of the mill surplus. However, on Midway, I found myself looking at about 200 dollars per 1000 reloading.

Now, I do understand that you are talking about a completely different animal in terms of quality of reloads verses mil-surp.

I have no doubt I'll get into reloading as I finish out my immediate needs, but I am just wondering if reloading would actually MEET one of my immediate needs.

Also, can anyone give me an idea of how long the reloading life is on brasses?


Thanks guys!


John

 

[Ben Shepherd]

Yes. Very cost effective. I just finished up 5,000 rounds of 357 mag for long term storage just last weekend.

And if it's a load that is proven in your particular gun, so much the better.

As far as reloading life on brass- Do you mean how long will virgin handloads store? ANSWER: As long as mil-surp under good conditions.

Or are you talking how many reloads before case failure? ANSWER: Depends on the brass. But for example, I have some federal 357 brass with over 15 loads that still works fine. With rifle/bottleneck calibers, if I get 10 loads I feel I'm doing well.

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

The short answer is yes.

 

[DogBonz]

For long term storage

I would use a sealant of some kind. Probably not needed, but couldn't hurt.

 

[JWarren]

Excellent. Thanks guys.

It's good to know that my thinking was on the right track.

Looks like I'll be doing a lot more reloading than I anticipated soon.


BTW...

What is the opinion on reloading 7.62x39? Is it economically better than getting a load of Wolf? Of course, I DO want to make sure I have a decent supply of reloadable brass for ALL my firearms. But just wondering.


Thanks again.

John

 

[USSR]

JWarren,

As far as .308 goes, I am presently loading M80 for less than $.15 per round (not counting the cost of USGI brass, which is reuseable). If you intend to go this route, I would strongly suggest you begin purchasing components NOW, rather than later, as copper-based components (brass, bullets, primers) will only be higher as time passes. Finding good USGI .308 brass is quite difficult right now, but Pat's has some surplus W846 powder and surplus M80 bullets that I would be all over if I were you. I layed in a supply of surplus IMR4895 over the last couple of years, and now that powder is no longer available.

Don

 

[rchernandez]

I reload .45acp and I "stock up" by buying a little more than what I need on a regular basis. I have a 5gallon pail of brass, several 8lb jugs of Bullseye powder. I use a brass catcher on the firing line.

I also have a "stockpile" of 9mm; 7.62x39; and, .308's. I have dies for them in reserve. The 9mm is used primarily in a Glock...I don't reload for that (anymore). My .308 is fired mostly from a JLD PTR-91...portugese brass ends up at 1:30 about 15' away; winchester brass likes to go 4:00 past 12'; and I believe south african brass flies home (?)...

7.62x39, I'm rebuilding the pile...slowly.

When ammo costs reaches the $3-5/gallon rate...I'll have to get a .308 bolt rifle, maybe a CZ527 carbine for the '39...slowing down rate of fire and "saving" up the brass.

 

[Idano]

rchernandez,

Definitely! I have hundreds of rounds that I loaded over 20 yrs ago for my 30-06 that so far I haven't had a single issue with. That rifle sees little use since I only use it for hunting so usually only shoot a box a year through that rifle a few to check the scope before the season and then maybe one or two rounds during the season.

 

[ReloaderFred]

It doesn't hurt to stockpile. I've got 2,000 virgin LC .308 brass in a sealed 20mm ammo can that I bought from CMP many years ago. Now you can't buy virgin LC brass anywhere.

Proper storage is the key for long term ammo reserves. If you can keep it in airtight containers, such as military ammo cans, it will last longer. The more constant the temperature, the better, but heat is the big killer, along with moisture.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[azredhawk44]

JWarren:

I'm going through the same thing right now. I am stocking up a pile of .45acp, 9mm, 38/357, 30-30 and .308 in case of excessive commodity volatility or some sort of UN/US Congress joint effort to curtail ammunition availability. Is this necessary? Probably not, but I don't want to be caught with my pants down and my immediate goal is 500 rounds for each of these calibers, in containers labeled "Do Not Distub: For a Rainy Day." This ammo is to be separate from my regular shootin' ammo.

My particular tactic?

I bought brand new Starline .45acp+p brass for my shootin' ammo. All my old brass, and any new brass I pick up, gets loaded with inexpensive Berry's plated 230gr RN bullets. This stuff will still have a few reloads left in it, but it isn't exactly the most desireable brass in the world. As the starline stuff gets repeatedly reloaded, when I suspect it only has a load or two left in it, it will go to the 45 bin as well. I currently have about 150 rounds or so in 45acp using this tactic... but I have the brass and components set aside to easily reach my goal and then some. It's a function of time, mostly, for me.

With .357, I am putting all my nickel brass in my long term storage. These are getting 158gr LSWC bullets. I have about 200 rounds of 357, and another 100 rounds of 38special. Another couple hundred pieces of brass waiting for bullets: I'm out right now.

I typically do not shoot reloaded 9mm, but I half-heartedly pick up my WWB brass. I have about 500-600 pieces of brass, and dies for 9mm. I need to decide on a good inexpensive load... I tested my gun's ability to shoot reloaded WWB brass and it worked fine using a box of Hornady XTP's, but these are a bit more expensive than what I want to sock away.

With 30-30, I only have a total of about 300 pieces of brass and I need to get more somehow. I favor 170gr bullets, but I have found a good deal of 150gr plated flatpoint bullets from Berry's that still shoot well and don't foul my barrel, even using true rifle powders and velocities around 2000-2100fps. I have about 50 rounds set aside at this point, but as I find new brass I retire my shootin' brass into this set.

And finally, with .308, I have a really good system. I just got my hands on 1000 pieces of Federal Gold Medal match once fired brass for a killer deal. Prior to that, I had about 500 pieces of various brands of brass... winchester, remington, federal, lake city, nato surplus, pmc, etc. All that stuff is getting put away, seated with whatever bullet I get my hands on cheapest. Right now it is a Remington 165gr PSP, but it may be changing to a surplus pulled 147gr FMJ boattail if prices keep around where they are. My powder is IMR4895 surplus by the 8 pound keg, and it works for .308 and .30-30. Current count of stuff put away in .308 is about 150 rounds, and my limitation here again is time, not material.

My total cost for .308 currently (not including brass) keeps me around $0.25 per round. 13cents for powder, 11cents for bullets, and 2 cents for primer. .30-30 is around 10cents for powder, 5 cents for bullets, and 2 cents per primer for a total of about $0.17 per round.

 

[Walkalong]

I have some ammo cans of surplus ammo and handloaded ammo. 8 lb-ders of powder suitable for .223 & .308 and a good bit of brass for rainy days. Anytime someone had a great deal on bullets I would buy a 1000 and sock it away. I have enough 1 lb-ders of pistol powders I have tried to load a good bit of pistol stuff. When I get close to 3000 left of a certain primer I restock. If prices spike, I can hold out for a while.

 

[RustyFN]

I typically do not shoot reloaded 9mm, but I half-heartedly pick up my WWB brass. I have about 500-600 pieces of brass, and dies for 9mm. I need to decide on a good inexpensive load...

I shoot Berry's plated 115gr or 124gr with 4 grains of Titegroup. both shoot very nice. $6.80 per 100.
Rusty

 

[callgood]

I started reloading 2 and a half years ago when I got a Glock G20. I knew I could save a lot, relatively speaking. At the range I saw a ton of 9mm on the ground. No one picked it up. At that time 9mm at WalMart was so cheap that it was only marginally more expensive than buying new Win 9mm brass from Midway. So I picked it up cleaned and tumbled it, sorted it and put it away. Shortly afterwards, I bought a HiPower, got a set of dies, and started reloading for 9mm. When I mentioned this online a lot of people snickered. "It's too cheap, don't bother." Well, I kept on picking up 9mm brass, and kept reloading- each session, some for current practice, some for future practice, and a 50 round box of Gold Dots.

Now, 115 grain FMJ 9mm is 14 cents a pop at WalMart. Everything is more expensive. I'm shooting my "old" practice rounds and still picking up 9mm brass. Only, there isn't as much as there used to be. People are wising up.

Oh, yeah. I also pick up Berdan primed .308. "You can't get the primers, don't bother!" So now it's easy to glean piles of the stuff. And one day Berdan primers will be available. And I'll be shooting inexpensive .308.

 

[Sheldon]

Here's how I look at buying components. It's just plain cheaper to buy components than loaded ammo. I usually buy in quantity to get a better price. That it allows you to ride out any weird price spikes upward is an added bonus. If prices are just rising due to inflation, then it really is just a temporary reprieve from the higher prices since I do shoot fairly regularly and even a stockpile of 10,000 bullets will be loaded and shot off within a couple years. I like the ability to load up the ammo as the need arises. With newbies I might load some target loads and if the day calls for magnum loads, then I load them up. It's liberating....till you need to resupply.

 

[TooTaxed]

I've standardized on powder and buy in bulk, which saves a lot of space...found that milsurp #4895 works excellently for all rifle from .223 Win up through .30-06 general size. Win #231 works for everything from 9-mm Makarov up through .45 Colt. I use milsurp gasketed ammo cans for long term storage of powder, primers, and loaded ammo, stored in a cool place. Processed brass and bulk bullets are stored in Ziplock bags, size, number, and date noted on the bag. I pick up component bargains as I can locate them and store for the future. I have distributed several caches with family members and friends...and I shoot about three times a week.

This may sound a bit extreme...and when I was loading on single-stage tools I struggled to keep 500 rounds/cartridge on hand...but once I got started with my Hornady LNL progressive, the ammo flows like water!...with far less time.

 

[TooTaxed]

Sorry, I forgot... you asked about cost. That varies from time to time entirely based upon what bargains you can lay in for components.

Including applicable sales taxes and shipping costs, 9-mm Luger costs me $2.26/50; .38-Spl, .357 Mag, .40 S&W, .45 Auto between $2.58 and $3.56/50; .223 Win $1.43/20; 6.5 x 55-mm Mauser $2.80/20; .308 Win and .30-06 about $3.25/20 (but only about $1.75 with 170-gr gas-checked cast lead bullets).

 

[GRIZ22]

As long as you keep any ammo dry and relatively cool it lasts just about forever. I recently found a box of 38 I loaded over 30 years ago. It shot as good as I just loaded it. Don't get wrapped up in primer and bullet sealants. These are tricky things best left to the factory and not needed for normal storage.

 

[Dave R]

FYI you can cut the cost of reloading .308 and .223 (and other similar calibers) by using "pulled" milsurp bullets. The bullet is always the biggest cost of reloading. So cutting the bullet cost reduces your overall price pretty significantly.

www.hi-techammo.com is one source for pulled bullets.

Don't use thenm for hunting, because they're FMJ. But for plinking, you can't beat the price.

Wait a minute--I just checked the site for pricing and they're all out of stock, except for 145gr. .308 tracer. You can buy those for $30 per 500 plus shipping, which beats anything you can get from Speer, Remchester, Hornady, etc.