Cost of reloading .45acp?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thanks for all the replies!

Just to clarify, I already reload for .357 and .44 (.45-70 is an almost, I just haven't run a batch yet). So I have most of what I need. I actually just ordered .45 dies and a turret head for my LCT. So I'm in for this caliber too.

I was going to use either W231 or WST because I have both. Not sure about projectiles, but easy to reload and reliable is preferable to most cost efficient, particularly to begin with. Any suggestions (230gr)?
both are great powders for .45.

if I had to pick one it would be WST. If you want 230 ball equivalent then pretty much any RN plated, coated, or FMJ will do fine. I like berry's and xtreme plates. However Berry's hollow base RN 185s over WST make very soft shooting rounds that are accurate and reliable. FYI
 
Is there a good reason not to go with a polycoated 230gr LRN with no crimp groove?
Everybody has their preference, but coated lead bullets work pretty well on the whole. Acme has nice coated bullets at attractive prices, and there are 10% off coupons that can be googled. If you like and trust SNS and the economics make sense, I don't see any reason not to.

You've probably figured out from your revolver reloading that it's wise to start with a limited number of any new bullet. I don't buy large quantities until I've tested a bullet in my guns. Sometimes things that seem sure-fire don't prove to be my favorite. Once I've tested a bullet and decided it's really what I'm after I buy in bulk to reduce unit cost.
 
I like both ideas...

I buy factory ammo... after I shoot it, I reload the brass. When I get low on brass, I buy more factory ammo, rinse and repeat. The economics of reloading .45ACP are there, not so much for something like 9mm, in my opinion, but time is also figured into the mix for me.
 
I like both ideas...

I buy factory ammo... after I shoot it, I reload the brass. When I get low on brass, I buy more factory ammo, rinse and repeat. The economics of reloading .45ACP are there, not so much for something like 9mm, in my opinion, but time is also figured into the mix for me.

This is the line of thought I had. I know I can't collect ALL my semi-auto brass like I can with my revolvers, so salvaging what I can without scrabbling around on the floor too much make sense.

I think I'll try a small batch of the SNS coated bullets, and see how they work for me. Maybe with the W231 first, because that's a powder I also use for my revolvers. The WST was more for a special project, and the current loading data for it seems rather limited.
 
No reason the Coated 230 RNs shouldn't work.
As mentioned earlier I wouldn't buy a bunch at first say maybe 500 at most.
Some guns are are real friendly they shoot everything you feed them well, other tend to be a bit more picky.
With 500 and WST and W231 if your gun likes them you should be able to find a good load.
Old data but should be valid from Winchester Pistol Manual (funny no OAL shown)
WIN-Pistol-old.JPG
Lyman list this for a cast 225 RN @1.27
WST - Start 4.2gr 707 FPS , MAX 4.7gr 794 FPS
W231(HP38) - Start 4.0=gr 661 FPS, MAX 5.8gr 902 FPS
(I think Lymans 231 data is a bit low on the low side and high on the high side!)

Hodgdon
230 GR. LRN Winchester 231 .452" 1.200" 4.3 699 12,200 CUP 5.3 834 16,900 CUP

Hodgdon is .3 gr heavier to start and and .5 less on the max than Lyman.

Please let us know how the SNS bullets work out for you.
 
Last edited:
How about a polymer coated LRN?

I use polymer coated LSWCs from SNS for my .357 and .44 mags, and I need to reorder some .357 anyway. Is there a good reason not to go with a polycoated 230gr LRN with no crimp groove? At least to start with? I don't really have a great reason for using SNS Casting over another brand, except that their bullets work for my purposes. And I like to keep things simple.

I've been dabbling with powder coating bullets for the past several years. In 45 ACP, most of the bullets I've coated have been 200 gr. SWC but I've done a few 230 RN as well. They work well.

Cost in purchasing or expenditure of time for home coated are the only disadvantage I see at this point.

Except for my Gold Cup which I shoot 200 gr. SWC bullets in, I shoot 230 gr. RN in my M1911s. I use 700-X or Accurate #5 powders but W231 works well as well.
 
I have shot many thousands of reloaded 45acp bullets both plain lubed lead and Hi-Tek coated. Both have been equally accurate and leading with both not an issue. However I do pay a little more for the Hi-Tek coated bullets. Simply because I got tired of all cleaning all the bullet lube out of my guns.
 
I have loaded 1000 45 ACP for less than $20/1000 but that’s been awhile now.

If you pick up you brass for free from the grass and get your lead from the dirt for the same cost, you are going to be out what ever lube/coating you use, powder and primer. It’s just math at that point.

The bullet is generally the most expensive part, powder the least, brass could be but not if you are actually “reloading” it because you already bought it before you fired it the first time.

Edit: had to check myself $18/1000 in 2005.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/magma-engineering-master-caster.158478/#post-1944416

I spend a bit more now but it’s not too far away. Of course include time at what I would like to be paid for it and that would cover beer costs or at least substantially increase the cost of the ammunition.
 
Last edited:
I don't consider W231 or WST the best powder for the 230grn bullet, you have to run it right up to max to get decent velocity. I do use it with 200grn bullets, however. My primary powder for the 230's is Unique.
 
However, many of us start reloading in an attempt to save money, but end up finding much enjoyment in it and turn it into a hobby.

If you are anything like me though you wont actually save much of any money at all. There is always a new tool to buy, or another powder to try. Heck, I even go out and buy new guns in calibers I dont yet own just so I have something new to tinker with at the reloading bench!
Pretty much describes me. I started with the idea that I would save money, and to be able to load my own when the ammo had evaporated from the shelves during the "big scare". It has turned into what will probably be a lifelong hobby for me. And I am finding all kinds of neat, shiny reloading gadgets that I never knew I needed.

Just to clarify, I already reload for .357 and .44 (.45-70 is an almost, I just haven't run a batch yet). So I have most of what I need. I actually just ordered .45 dies and a turret head for my LCT. So I'm in for this caliber too.

I was going to use either W231 or WST because I have both. Not sure about projectiles, but easy to reload and reliable is preferable to most cost efficient, particularly to begin with. Any suggestions (230gr)?
WST is a good one. I agree with @Charlie98 that W231/HP38 is best when loaded towards the upper end of the charge range. If you are interested in full-throttle loads, it will work well. I primarily load reduced recoil loads in 45, so I tend to use powders from the faster burning end of the chart. 45acp is a relatively low pressure round, and some powders don't burn clean at the low pressures. For the same velocity/recoil, a fast burning powder loaded at the top end of the charge range will be better than a slower powder at low-mid range charges. The initial pressure spike of a fast burning powder will do a better job expanding the case and forming a gas seal, which will help keep the gun cleaner. Clays is probably my favorite 45acp powder (and 38spl as well). FWIW, I have found that the powders that work well for 38spl also work very well for 45acp.

For bullets, I have settled on the plated variety, but have had good luck with coated bullets as well. For me, with plated bullets that I get when they are on sale, I spend about $0.16 per round to load, not counting brass. The nice thing about 45acp is that brass is plentiful, enough people shoot it so that I usually pick up more than I shoot. The bad thing about 45acp is that there are two primer sizes, so you will have to sort the brass by primer size.
 
I don't consider W231 or WST the best powder for the 230grn bullet, you have to run it right up to max to get decent velocity. I do use it with 200grn bullets, however. My primary powder for the 230's is Unique.
Either powder (WST & HP-38) is basically for target/plinking loads. I don't know of anyone using these powders for hard hitting rounds.
I have found CFE-P good for the stout rounds.
 
HP-38?W-231 will make perfectly suitable full power (A 230 Gr bullet @ 850 FPS) 230 Gr loads.

I dunno about WST, but assume it would be better suited to plinkers than full power due to burn rate, but Bullseye is real fast too, so go figure. Even though I am a WST fan I haven't tried it in .45 ACP. Maybe some day I'll try some plinkers with it.

I like N-340 for full power 230 Gr JHP .45 ACP loads, but many powders, including W-231/HP-38 will get a 230 to 850ish FPS safely.
 
I've used WST for full power 185gr and 200gr loads but not 230gr. Though I prefer a different powder for my full power loads. WST is one of the few powders that burns clean at reduced load. I use it exclusive for my BE loads which are reduced power, below recommended starting load. Also remember this powder is reverse temp sensitive. Meaning it loose speed as the ambient temp goes up, gains in colder temps.
 
Around 13 cents (45acp) a round for me. I buy in bulk when on sale. I buy my bullets. The bullets are the biggest cost.
I load for exaclty $13 per hundred, which is
Around 13 cents (45acp) a round for me. I buy in bulk when on sale. I buy my bullets. The bullets are the biggest cost.

My current loading cost per hundred is exactly $13.00 which equates to $6.50 per box. I use red dot powder ($25 per pound) and a cast 230 Grain Round nose at $90 per thousand. Current price for primers is $25. I do not include a cost for brass, as I shoot at a public outdoor range and always come back with a lot more brass than I went with. There are always several hundred rounds lying on the ground for pick up. During the shortages of components several years ago my costs went as high as $13.70 due to the higher cost of primers.
I was lucky during the shortages as my LGS kept me well very supplied in powder. and my cast bullet supplier took good care of his regular customers.
45ACP is a lot cheaper now but reloading stil cant be beaten price wise or from the enjoyment of reloading your own customized ammunition.
A long time reloader
 
For be all you can be strong .45 loads I like CFE-P, but for light to medium to Factory "Full Power" HP38 works well.
HP38 can make 800+fps 230gr loads in .45, factory Full Power.
(need to load up some CFE-P loads and chrono again , but as I recall vels on top were good if you want that type of load)
 
OP, as many here, I'm in the .12 to .13 per round range typically. Though I scored a bunch of 230 gr LRN at 8 cents recently and that brought it down to a bit less per round.
For powders I use WST, and Win 231.
I recently got into casting and now a box of 50 rounds is costing me $3.67, or 7.3 cents per round. This is with buying lead. Getting free lead will be even cheaper.
 
The cost of the bullet is mostly going to determine the overall cost. Currently my cost per 50 using Berry's 200gr RS plated bullets and SportPistol is $8.04. Locally I was able to purchase the Berry's bullets for $59.95 per 500 out the door. My BE-86 load works out to $8.10 per 50.

Over the last week I bought some RMR 230gr FMJRN bullets for $58.50 per 500 with their 10% advertised discount. This should bring the cost down to around $7.85 assuming I use a little less powder.

The cost of reloading 45acp with a quality but not expensive bullets is a little bit more than my cost for 357sig and 40s&w, but I think it is worth it.
 
My current loading cost per hundred is exactly $13.00 which equates to $6.50 per box. I use red dot powder ($25 per pound) and a cast 230 Grain Round nose at $90 per thousand. Current price for primers is $25.

I don't know where you're buying powder and primers for $25 each but I can't find them for less than $30 per.
 
If you have an android of iPhone there is an app called "reloading asistant" that has a relo acing calculator built into the app.
Also look at acme bullets, they carry lube lead and hitek coated bullets, have seen a 10% code on another forum.
 
I don't know where you're buying powder and primers for $25 each but I can't find them for less than $30 per.
I consider myself lucky, I get most pistol powders at the local gun shows now (one every couple of months) for $18-$25 per pound (local vendor has a special now on BE86 for $18). And, yes, I stock up!
 
I love reading these posts but I don't have much helpful info or advice. I stocked up (overstocked?) years ago. I'm still using primers marked $12/thousand and cast bullets made by the thousands from wheel weights from the local tire shop and buckets full of brass collected along the way.
 
Without an iPhone you can use the tools here:
http://www.handloads.com
I consider myself lucky, I get most pistol powders at the local gun shows now (one every couple of months) for $18-$25 per pound (local vendor has a special now on BE86 for $18). And, yes, I stock up!
I'm still waiting for that to happen here although I don't really need much.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top