Cost of reloading .45acp?

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WrongHanded

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I'm absolutely loving my new 1911. And I've been reading that the .45 acp is an easy cartridge to reload.

Have any of you done the math on how much it costs to reload, per round, or box of 50? I'm asking because with current ammunition cost, I just bought and had shipped, 1000 rounds of Sellier & Bellot 230gr. And that worked out to around $16 per 50 round box.

I suppose it worth getting dies and some components, just in case we have another ammo shortage at some point. But I'd like an idea of what I might be able to save, before I start up doing it for range practice.
 
I don't reload 45ACP, but I have looked at the economics. For the popular semi-auto cartridges like 9mm, 40S&W or 45ACP, you are looking at ~3 cents for the primer and 1-2 cents for the powder. So it's basically 5 cents + your projectile. Plain and coated lead 45ACP bullets start out at ~8-9 cents, and plated or jacketed bullets are ~10-15. So figure a range of 13-20 cents/round (6.50-$10/box), depending on the projectile used. Casting your own bullets can knock most of the bullet cost out of it, but casting does add a lot to the reloading process.

This assumes range-pickup brass, which is usually easy to accumulate for popular calibers like 45. Save the brass from your factory stuff..
 
I'm also in the 13 to 14 cents per round using purchased cast bullets (230 gr. RN). Plated bullets would raise that to 18 to 19 cents per round.

Currently, I load and shoot my own cast bullets and have no idea what the unit cost of the bullet is.
 
Reloaded ammo, regardless of caliber or type of gun, is going to be considerably more accurate than factory ammo if one takes the time and trouble to work up the loads for a particular gun. Hard to put a price on this.

That assumes the individual shooting is a good enough marksman to tell the difference. I wouldn't say I'm there yet. But I take your point.
 
Well it sounds like reloading .45 acp is worth my time. At least intermittently, depending on how hard I want to work to pick up all my brass (indoor range).
 
Using current prices for bullets, powder and primers:

I can load a 230gr FMJ bullet for under 18¢ a round, a box of 50 for $8.86
Plated 230gr bullets are a little less but not much.
I can load a 230gr LRN bullet for 13¢ a round, a box of 50 for $6.65
I can load a 230gr Coated Cast bullet for under 16¢ a round, a box of 50 for $7.64

If you hunt around or use components bought years ago like I have a box of 230gr LRN ammo costs only $4.65.
 
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RMR 230gr RN Plated $113/K shipped (after THR 5% discount)
Primers $30/k
Powder, maybe less but say $30/lb
(7000 gr in a lb of powder so if you say 5gr per round you have enough left from the first lb to do another 300-400 rounds
So $173/k $8.65 a box of 50 or about .173 a round.

.45 brass can comes in both large primer and small primer flavors, either work fine you just need the correct primers for your brass. (or the correct brass for your primers)
Lets say $300 for reloading equipment to get started. (Lee Classic turret and stuff)
So the first 1000 will cost you say $470, so for the first 1000 you have paid $150 more than buying the ammo.
Next 1000 saves you $150 so you are close to breaking even (after buying equipment)
Next 1000 saves you money so you can shoot 2000 for the price of a 1000:)
You might save money but I think most of us will confess we end up buying more reloading goodies or just shoot twice as much.
(or buy another gun to reload for......:D)

The advantage is you can tailor the ammo.
Want it lighter for practice, you can do that, want full power stuff you can do that to.
Good reloads will generally shoot more accurately than most factory ammo.

PS: A 1911 in 9mm is loads of fun, I really like my Springfield "Loaded" 1911 in 9mm.
 
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Reloaded ammo, regardless of caliber or type of gun, is going to be considerably more accurate than factory ammo if one takes the time and trouble to work up the loads for a particular gun. Hard to put a price on this.


This is my philosophy as well.
(But according to my calculator I spend about 8¢ a round (50 x .08 = $4.00 per box))
 
You can get into reloading new for about $200. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/622290/lee-4-hole-turret-press-with-auto-index-value-kit Just add dies and a safety prime, or save twenty some dollars and place primers by hand.

Or scour yard sales and the Goodwill stores for reloading and casting equipment. I just set up a bench at my second house. RCBS Reloader Special press, Redding powder measure, Lyman case trimmer, Ohous scale, RCBS bench mounted priming tool. All yardsale finds, for less than $75.

Small cast iron pot, ladle, strainer, and propane burner at the Goodwill store for about $25 for processing lead. Add a muffin tin to make ingots and a bullet mold and you are good to cast. Candles make good cheap flux.

Brass is free. Pick up at the range. Pick up all brass, what calibers you don't use you can sell. Scrap lead used to be free, it's costing about $1 per pound now at most places. Processed ingots cost more.

My 230 grain 45acp ball loads cost me $3.91 per 50 if I cast my own, $8.21 if I buy plated from the local shop.

Unique powder = $22 per pound
Primers = $30 per 1000
Bullets = 3¢ my cast ( $58 per 500 purchased at local store
Cases = range pickup
 
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If cost saving is your only motivating factor you will get bored very quickly. And probably give it up.

However, many of us start reloading in an attempt to save money, but end up finding much enjoyment in it and turn it into a hobby.

If you are anything like me though you wont actually save much of any money at all. There is always a new tool to buy, or another powder to try. Heck, I even go out and buy new guns in calibers I dont yet own just so I have something new to tinker with at the reloading bench!

I know I am running cheaper on all my ammo, but I dont really bother figuring it out. I'd still reload even if it cost more than factory anyhow.
 
I'm absolutely loving my new 1911. And I've been reading that the .45 acp is an easy cartridge to reload.

Have any of you done the math on how much it costs to reload, per round, or box of 50? I'm asking because with current ammunition cost, I just bought and had shipped, 1000 rounds of Sellier & Bellot 230gr. And that worked out to around $16 per 50 round box.

I suppose it worth getting dies and some components, just in case we have another ammo shortage at some point. But I'd like an idea of what I might be able to save, before I start up doing it for range practice.
Now you have at least 1k pieces of brass. That's a good start. Plus what you pick up extra along the way.
There are many pluses to reloading 45. Many varieties of bullets and much load data out there. Almost any handgun/shotgun powder will have data for 45 Auto.
Now is the time to stock up on components. It probably isn't going to get much cheaper than now. 4th of July will probably have many deals out there.
If you check out https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/thank-you-thr-pay-it-forward.760272/, bds list the discount codes for several bullet dealers for THR members. In his 1st post.
 
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You won’t be sorry you began reloading.45acp. As @CZ9shooter mentioned, it will become a hobby in itself. It IS cheaper, but you will shoot more!
You will find that it is difficult to leave any fired brass on the range, and that processing the brass becomes a relaxing ritual. Sales on powder, primers, and projectiles will become a goal.
Your 1911 will take on a whole new personality as you find its best load for shooting comfort and accuracy. You will begin to wonder if you reload to shoot—or shoot to reload!

Either way is a win!
 
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Casting my own bullets using a 200 gr swc rough cost $10 per 50 rounds. I stopped picking up range brass as I've acquired something like 5k 45 auto cases both small and large primers .
 
Thanks for all the replies!

Just to clarify, I already reload for .357 and .44 (.45-70 is an almost, I just haven't run a batch yet). So I have most of what I need. I actually just ordered .45 dies and a turret head for my LCT. So I'm in for this caliber too.

I was going to use either W231 or WST because I have both. Not sure about projectiles, but easy to reload and reliable is preferable to most cost efficient, particularly to begin with. Any suggestions (230gr)?
 
Thanks for all the replies!

Just to clarify, I already reload for .357 and .44 (.45-70 is an almost, I just haven't run a batch yet). So I have most of what I need. I actually just ordered .45 dies and a turret head for my LCT. So I'm in for this caliber too.
I was going to use either W231 or WST because I have both. Not sure about projectiles, but easy to reload and reliable is preferable to most cost efficient, particularly to begin with. Any suggestions (230gr)?
WST is a good powder for 45 Auto target rounds. 5.1 gr. of WST with Berry's 185 gr. HBRN, makes for an accurate and light target shooting. MBC (Missouri Bullet Co.) 200 FN. has worked well with WST too.
W231 will work in the 45, but I think WST has worked better.
:)
 
I haven't tried WST in .45 but hear it works well. Lot's of people seem to like it. (on my list of things to try)
My current go to load for practice is a 230 RN with either 4.7 or 5gr of HP38(W231 same powder)
Lots pf people like W231 as well.
Both shoot well, of course the 4.7gr load is a little softer.

I am currently using the RMR plated 230 RNs they shoot well and should feed well in any .45.
I had good results with the MBC 200gr SWC (I liked the softer BHN 12 ones best), no feed issues in my .45s.
Some 1911s/mags feed SWCs fine others are more picky.
I would say start with RNs and if you want try SWCs later.

Both RMR and MBC offer THR members a 5% discount. as mentined earlier codes are in the start of BDS's PIF thread here.

Bet you will have fun loading .45, cost savings are there or like I mentioned earlier you can just shoot twice as much for the same price.:)
 
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Wronghanded

CHECK ALL LOADS THROUGH A REPUTABLE SOURCE

I use 5.1 gr of WST behind 200 gr coated bullets. Works great.

Around $0.13 for 45. The data below is dated, but you will get the drift. Buy in bulk to get the best value, minimize the Hazmat fees, and minimize the impact of freight on the total cost.

As for bullets, Better Bullets are great. The owners are Roger and Pat - wonderful people. Try them (betterbullets.com)


Primers Source Price Piece Freight Hazmat Price per Unit
WLP Powder Valley $ 26.00 1000 $ 0.51 $ 0.55 $ 0.0271 ea
Powder Source Price Piece Freight Hazmat Price per Unit
WST Powder Valley $ 63.55 4 $ 2.04 $ 2.20 $ 0.0024 gr
Bullets Source Price Piece Freight Hazmat Price per Unit
45 cal 200 gr FP Better Bullets $ 40.57 500 $ 14.95 $ - $ 0.0886 ea
Check Sum
Product
Quantity Ea Extended Freight Hazmat Total pieces $ / piece
WLP - primer 26 $ 26.00 $ 676.00 $ 13.23 $ 14.30 26,000 $ 0.0271
WST - powder 2 $ 63.55 $ 127.10 $ 4.07 $ 4.40 56,000 $ 0.0024
45 cal 200 gr FP 20 $ 40.57 $ 811.40 $ 74.75 $ - 10,000 $ 0.0886
Load
45 ACP 45 cal x 200 gr FP with 5.1 gr WST $ 0.13 ea
 
The following is the results of the reloads using WST (loads above). I use the data as a "poor man's" quality check. Please understand the SD on the speed (FPS) is goofy. This is a number of strings over a variety of days, conditions, distances, and etc. The number does not reflect the quality, and it is mathematically meaningless.

Throw COL FPS
AVG 5.1 1.223 900.3
SD 0.059 0.005 60.2
Count 136 278 108
Min 5.0 1.200 781.7
Max 5.2 1.235 1180.3

Looking at an individual lot / string is much better (27 rounds fired):

hi = 904.9
lo = 812.8
SD = 20.9
CV = 2.40%
MAD = 14.5
CV = 1.66%
ES = 92.1
AVG = 871.4
 
My cost for .45s, 9mms, and .38/357s runs about $3.00 per box, with .41mag being a bit more, but my situation is a bit unique.

About 20 years ago, my employer was having some equipment removed that used 300 pound counterweights that were hard lead. 3600 pounds ended up going home with me and about twice that went to the recyclers for 2 cents a pound, so my cost for lead is zero.

For someone just starting out, the initial cost of casting bullets has lowered considerably since I got into it 50 years ago now that Lee makes relatively inexpensive molds and bullet sizers. My Lyman 450 sizer and molds weren't exactly cheap and I still use the Lyman stuff for everything but .41 mag which Lyman quit making molds for, but Lee does.

Anyway, if I were to start casting bullets today knowing what I know now, all I would purchase would be a dipper, thermometer, a Lee mold, and a Lee sizer. My Lyman furnace and cast iron lead pot sit on a shelf in my shop since I found a $10 Coleman camp stove, which works fine on plain old unleaded gas, and a 50 cent aluminum sauce pan at a garage sale.

Actually, I don't think I'd recommend anyone to get into bullet casting, or reloading, as it's become a winter addiction with me.
 
Since I have several thousand once shot cases already, if I wait for sales on primers and bullets, my cost has been running just under $9 per 50 rounds.
 
How about a polymer coated LRN?

I use polymer coated LSWCs from SNS for my .357 and .44 mags, and I need to reorder some .357 anyway. Is there a good reason not to go with a polycoated 230gr LRN with no crimp groove? At least to start with? I don't really have a great reason for using SNS Casting over another brand, except that their bullets work for my purposes. And I like to keep things simple.
 
I would have no problem using poly-coated 230 gr LRN. It just comes down to economics. Sometimes I can find RMR plated for the same or less.

With that said, I have come to prefer the coated 200gr LSWC bullets from MBC. I can buy those more cheaply than coated or plated RN Bullets.

They all make holes in targets, but the LSWCs make cleaner holes!
 
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