Rem 700 replacement trigger problem

[RNB65]

I just had a Jard varmint trigger installed in my 700. After a couple of trips to the range, it started having a problem with not resetting the trigger after firing about half the time. I have to manually pull the trigger with the bolt open to get it to reset to the firing position. I sent an e-mail to Jard describing the problem and they sent the following response --

It sounds like the disconnect needs to be adjusted. Back it off by turning it
counter-clock wise. When you turn it, turn it just 2 degrees at a time. If you
still have a problem, please let us know. Thanks!

Can someone translate this into English for me? Where is this disconnect screw located and how do I adjust it? I'm familiar with the sear engagement, overtravel, and trigger weight screws but I've never heard of a disconnect screw.

Thanks.

 

[Big Az Al]

I give my thoughts a shot

In the Remington trigger there amounts to three moving parts to fire the round.

The trigger, this blocks the sear.

The sear, when the triggers is pulled the trigger moves out of the way let the SEAR drop.

The firing pin/striker assembly/cocking piece all one assembly working as on part, when the sear drops it releases this, which strikes the primer. After the striker has fallen IE the gun has fired, the striker/cocking piece will hold the sear down until the bolt is open which pulls the striker/cocking piece back allowing the sear to return, and trigger to reset.

There are usually three screws in the Remington triggers, and most similair trigger groups.

One adjusts the amount of engagement the trigger has with the sear.

Another adjusts the spring tention on the trigger

The last adjusts the trigger over travel, or the movement of the trigger after it has moved far enough to release the sear.

I am not sure what is ment by DISCONNECT,
Quote:
It sounds like the disconnect needs to be adjusted. Back it off by turning it
counter-clock wise. When you turn it, turn it just 2 degrees at a time. If you
still have a problem, please let us know. Thanks!

But if something got into the trigger assembly it may bind up the trigger. Dust grit, sand or some other foriegn object, there is limited space inside the Rem type triger assemblies, and doesn't take much to gum up the works.

Or if the trigger spring tension has changed, it will not let trigger return to it's waiting to be pulled position under the sear. The screw for this spring when turned Counter clockwise, lightens the spring pressure on the trigger.

A third option which would seem odd, but does happen, is that there is to much over travel on the trigger, which causes the trigger spring to, move to much, be overcompressed or be otherwise damaged, so that it no longer applies pressure to the trigger.

So the first thing to try is clean the trigger group, using a light solvent or light oil, try to clean any grease, grime, that may be slowing the trigger return down, or stopping it all together.

If this doesn't work and you have not done any adjustments your self take it back to the guy that put it in for you.

 

[DnPRK]

Since you do not have the installation instructions that explains all the components of the Jard trigger, I assume you had a gunsmith install the trigger. Take the rifle back to the gunsmith and tell him what the trigger is doing and have him correct it. The gunsmith owes you a properly functioning trigger.

If you don't want to mess with the gunsmith, look for the screw behind the trigger that controls sear engagement. You can try backing out the screw (counterclockwise) a little bit (2 degrees) at a time.

 

[Strongbad]

They're talking about the sear. They're telling you to put more engagement back in. If you back the sear out far enough the gun will get to where it either wont cock, or will fire when the bolt is closed. Try putting more engagement back in as prescribed and see what happens. I don't know about all of that 2 degrees business. On all of the 700 triggers I have installed or adjusted it's not that complicated. You cock the gun and then reduce the engagement until the gun fires (empty of course). Then put 1/4 to 1/2 turn back the other way. Check it to make sure that it's safe, and you're done... with the sear anyway. Then you deal with the overtravel, weight of pull etc. as needed.