Remington 11 bolt

[khitan]

Hey Guys,
a buddy of mine and I were shooting his Remington 11 a few weeks ago. He had gotten it from his grandfather, it hasnt been cleaned in a while and had a few small issues with extracting shells. He asked me to look at it. I thought the chamber might be a little rough and the shells might be sticking... but that doesnt appear to be the case. However when I got it apart I found this when I looked at the bolt:



As you can see part of it has broken, and the lower right corner, which is the rear of the bolt, is cracking, here is a view from the bottom:



Im not sure what caused this, but I am curious as to whether I need to replace the bolt altogether or will it be fine to shoot this way. It was setup for light loads and we were shooting full power loads... and that may have caused it.

 

[Chawbaccer]

No, don't shoot it until it is repaired. The piece on the right is the locking bolt, it locks the barrel to the bolt, yours is broke and needs replaced. If they aren't locked together, you face the probability of serious injury. Numrich lists a bolt for the round firing pin, (yours does appear to be the round one) I don't know if the different bolts are interchangeable with the correct fp. Also order a new locking bolt and a set of friction pieces and a fiber buffer, yours may be missing.
I suspect the damage occured from heavy loads and not setting the gun up for such loads, plus the suspect buffer. You can find instructions on the web for setting up for heavy loads.

 

[Big Az Al]

What is the gauge?

I have a few parts, but I was told when they where handed over that they are 20 ga.

there are a couple of 12 ga locking blocks in the box tho.

 

[NCsmitty]

As mentioned, some parts are available, but as usual, will not be cheap.

Here's a link to Numrich's schematic and parts list.

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=5642



NCsmitty

 

[khitan]

Thanks Guys... I figured it needed to be replaced, but wanted to make sure before I broke it to my buddy.

Big AZ Al, its a 12 gauge.... how much would you want for one of them?

 

[stoney1666]

Not to hijack, but how do you take it apart? web site link?

 

[khitan]

I picked up "The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly, Pt. V: Shotguns" ... wanted it for my 870 and hoped to learn a little more about my grandfathers Essex .410. It was VERY helpful... just hope I can get it back together.... LOL

 

[khitan]

@Chawbaccer - yep... I dont have a fiber buffer at all...

 

[natman]

If you shoot a Model 11 that's set up for light loads with heavy loads and there's no buffer and you ignore the clanking noise it makes as the bolt beats itself to death, then yes, it will eventually break.

 

[RBANNON]

One thing you might want to check is the chamber length. I had a Remington 11 that had a 2-5/8" chamber.

 

[White Horseradish]

If you shoot a Model 11 that's set up for light loads with heavy loads and there's no buffer and you ignore the clanking noise it makes as the bolt beats itself to death, then yes, it will eventually break.

This.

Having the recoil system set incorrectly is also why so many of them have broken forends.

 

[ranger335v]

" It was setup for light loads and we were shooting full power loads... and that may have caused it."

Yep. John Browing designed that recoil friction ring for a reason, and it works to. Won't help a bit if it's not set properly tho.

 

[Big Az Al]

khitan,

Let me compare everything I have with the close cousins that I like and I will offer them to you at 10% less then the online parts houses. It may be fridy before I get a chance tho

 

[khitan]

Thanks Big Al, I wont order one until I hear back from you.

 

[Big Az Al]

The bolt I have is 20GA, one locking bolt that may be 12 but I find no numbers on it to show where the two 20 GA locking blocks have the 20 stamped on the side.

 

[kirbythegunsmith]

details

The friction ring setting, if of the normal light or heavy configuration, should have no effect that would cause a premature crack of the forend.
It can have an effect on the buffer and frame from extra recoil force if set for light loads while firing heavy loads.
The setting of the friction rings is to adjust the braking of the barrel recoil, not the barrel return- which is the motion directed against the forend. Either setting should not be considered abusive of the wood. Any forend cracking is due to other circumstance- especially allowing or leaving the forend loose by not properly snugging the magazine cap (or it has problems with the detent/retention).
If the friction ring setting is improper by having the friction piece not against the barrel ring (some goofs have either put the friction ring under the spring or advised others to do so for a CUTTS barrel etc.), then that will give the barrel a full-speed return to battery at the behest of the barrel return spring.
That is going to abuse the wood in one direction, and the bolt/barrel/buffer/frame in the other direction.

-----------------------------------

Am I the only one to notice that the bolt shown has an obvious weld repair of the left rail near the rear face?
Those grind marks and heat coloring of the metal- plus the weld edge gap- serve to draw attention to the rework.

I checked my parts to see what bolts I had, and I do have 3 spare bolt bodies- and one of them has a slight crack developing at the locking bolt rail cut.
The other 2 are already cracked out there. One even has a big chunk of the left rear rail broken out- imagine that.

BTW, I've got a few square-back firing pins, extractors, locking blocks, links, and other parts- what a coincidence.
I have the guts of several 12 ga. Model-11 12 ga. and some other misc.

I also have a 12 ga. Sportsman M-11 with a cut-down barrel that is looking pretty good on the frame and the buttstock, but the forend might be a replacement.
If there is an interest, I can post a few pics.

I have a parts supplier that sometimes has parts when they aren't available at the big-name parts houses, and that can be of help when working on these and other obsolete models.

[email protected]

 

[Silverado6x6]

If we are talking about the Remington Model 11 auto shotgun there is a piece of leather shock buffer at the back of the bolt to give some padding so when it travels too far back from a heavy load. Just my .02 on this.

If its gone and the compression sleeves are too lightly set up bolt hammers the receiver too much.

 

[khitan]

Thanks again for all of the reply's. I did go ahead and get a whole new bolt body. I also got a fiber buffer, there wasnt one installed at all. Im just not exactly sure how to install it. It looks like I use the rivet and just press it straight back into the back of the reciever... does that sound right?

 

[Silverado6x6]

Its been a couple of years since I took mine apart but yes I believe it is a type of rivet or rather a pin like you see used on metal plates for electric motors.

Again I forget but if it was like a pin you could use something like a piece of aluminum rod or copper and punch it in...carefully.