Remington Model 11

[george.barnes.754]

So, I did a little horse trading after church Sunday and gave up a Maverick 88, an 18.5" barrel for the same, and a $100 bill for a Remington Model 11 12 gauge shotgun. Barrel is 28" with the poly choke as an aftermarket add on (I think, the barrel is marked mod). Serial number is 378xxx which I believe makes it series 2. It wouldn't cycle for the guy that had it (and after printing out an owners manual from Remington's website the friction rings were in the wrong spot) so he wanted to off it quick. Couple questions, #1, did I do good? #2 any way to tell what year it was made? #3 what did they consider light and heavy loads? #4 What's it worth? #5 Other than Boyds does anyone know where I can get a replacement stock and for end? #6 The buttstock looks to be a replacement as the for end is glass smooth and very finely checkered and the buttstock isn't, anyone know where a reproduction round knob stock can be had? #7 Does anyone have a picture of the checkering pattern on an original, preferably round knob stock as that's what I'd like to put on it? #8 Do these have any issues other than friction ring misalignment and the fiber washer in the back of the receiver going to pot? #9 Are there any parts I should keep on hand as spares as I plan to shoot it a lot as I shoot it really well? And last but not least #10 Is there anything I just absolutely should read on these things, as I'm in the process of rebuilding my firearms library and have all of the major disassembly/reassembly manuals and am now looking into books more specific to the individual weapons I own?

 

[Jim K]

The Remington Model 11 is basically the same gun as the Browning Auto 5, just made in the U.S. under a different agreement with John Browning. Many (not all) parts interchange, including IIRC the buttstock.

The terms High and Low settings refer to the power of the ammunition. Frankly, the profusion and confusion in shotgun shells today is so great that I can only suggest you consult a maker's web site or your local gun store as to what is which today. In any case, the bronze friction rings on the magazine tube under the forearm have to be set appropriately or the gun will either malfunction or beat itself up. Here is one site that can help.

http://www.browning.com/customerservice/qna/detail.asp?id=105

Having a buffer (that fiber washer) on hand is not a bad idea, but it takes a lot of shooting to wear out the friction rings. Be careful when removing/replacing the foreend as they are thin and can be fragile.

"Plain Jane" Remington Model 11's in average condition show up on the used gun racks for around $200-250. Whether you did good on the trade you can judge for yourself.

Jim

 

[george.barnes.754]

Then I did fair on the trade. Gave a $150 shotgun for the $149 barrel that was on it and a poly choke 26" barrel I had handy and didn't like + $100 bill so I guess I'm in it $201. So I did fair. And isn't that washer riveted in?

 

[Jim K]

Yes, and it is a bear to remove and replace. But some folks report using one of the new glues to hold in a replacement buffer rather than replacing the rivet.

However, I have seen Model 11's with buffers completely gone that were working fine and had been for a long time. FWIW the Browning A-5 does not have the buffer and seems to work fine without it and without excessive battering of the receiver. I think it was a sort of extra refinement on Remington's part and not really needed.

Jim

 

[Kp321]

I don't know why, maybe different heat treatment from Browning, but everything you read says not to run a M11 without a buffer. It will lead to receiver cracking around the back of the "hump". Have not observed it, just reporting what I read.
I have had trouble making Auto5's cycle with Cutts installed. It has taken light load settings to cycle with heavy loads and lube on the rings (a big no no usually) to cycle with light loads. The Cutts apparently either reduces recoil or adds mass to the barrel and affects operation.

 

[WestKentucky]

You get 2 issues when running without a buffer. Both are caused by the same problem. As the gun recoils the charging handle will slam the rear of the reciever and will crack the reciever along that cut, or will break the pin holding the charging handle and badly jam the gun. When I got mine it was badly abused and had a broken pin in the charging handle which I replaced immediately and I then milled out the slot an extra 1/16th inch to clean up the damage. I used. A jewelers file to further clean up the action and now I have what appears to be a beater but is in reality the finest shotgun I have ever shot let alone owned, and that has some solid competition. The biggest issue with function other than the flippable brake on the mag tube is shooter stability. My scrawny friends "limpwrist" my shotgun a lot when they try it out. Lean into the gun and give it a solid shoulder to recoil onto or it cannot do its job. I now own 4 but that "beater" is the best. My 11-48 is a close second but it's still the second choice in the dove field.

For aging it you can get really close by use of serial number. Also use of the BLACKPOWDER month ID (b is January, l is February and so on). Mine is November 1926 for the good one, the rest are later. There were several changes made through the years, the first being naming it the model 11 instead of RAS, then safety mechanism, then some other things. For me though the in-the-guard safety is the preferred variety.

 

[Safetychain]

I have an 11 that a while back somehow traced its 94xxx SN to 1930. It was given to me, my first gun, by my father 50 years ago. It has a bulge in the 28" barrel that was there when I got it which was supposedly tested to be safe to shoot. I have used the 11 all my life taking several deer, ducks, quail, a fox, and not nearly as many dove as the shells that were shot at them. Several times, when dove were fast and furious, the barrel was so hot that the plastic shell actually melted into the chamber and were the only times I can remember that the gun failed to function. I had no owners manual so I never knew what the thrust rings were for or how they were to be installed. 1000s of shells were fired in this gun and just 10 years ago the buffer washer came apart. It continued to fire but was having woody stuff coming out of every opening. I actually thought the stock was coming apart from the inside somehow. I replaced what seemed to be a cork/wood buffer with a new fangled fiber one. The assortment of shells fired probably were 75% low brass, 25% high brass, which were the only two powers of shot shell I ever knew and would assume that they fit nicely with the high and low alignments of the friction rings. Up until 10 years ago, when the buffer failed, the rings had always been set to the low power setting (a lot of buck shot and slugs). I don't know nor do I care how much this gun is worth because it one hell of a gun and to me its priceless. It will be given to one of my children when I'm gone.

 

[Deltaboy1984]

I waiting to get my Grandfather's model 11 in 16 gauge. Dad still letting it rest in the gun safe.

 

[george.barnes.754]

Wow, I shoulda checked this thread again. I've shot it again since then and tried all 3 friction ring settings. Still won't even cycle 00 buckshot. I stripped it again and went all the way down to pins this time with a little help from YouTube. Discovered the buffer is full of oil and the wooden rear recoil spring guide is swelled up enough I had to actually make it so I had to unscrew the spring like it was a nut on a bolt. Could either of those be my problem? Also considering ordering a new set of springs (recoil, magazine tube, hammer, lifter, the works) and see if that don't help. Anybody got any ideas? I've owned several auto 5s and never had any trouble out of them so I'm stumped?

 

[rcmodel]

Yes.

The recoil spring inside the stock must be free to move.

But the recoil spring in the stock should be contained inside a metal tube screwed into the rear of the receiver tang.

No wood spring guide I ever heard of.

Perhaps the steel guide tube rusted or broke off inside the stock???

Part #11 here:
http://www.gun-parts.com/remingtonshotgun/Jan22_04.jpg

rc

 

[Jim K]

The spring inside the buttstock is called the action spring; it might be more properly called the bolt return spring, since that is its function. And yes, the rear plug/guide, called the action spring plug, is wood. It is held in by the action spring plug pin, a cross pin that goes through the action spring tube and action spring plug. With the buttstock off, you should be able to drive out that pin and let the action spring come out along with the action spring plug and the action spring follower. The rear of the spring just fits around the plug; the follower is held onto the spring by a crimped coil. Make sure the spring is reinstalled correctly.

Jim

 

[WestKentucky]

When I got my '28 rem 11 it was a true beater. I had all kinds of issues with it. Lots of short-stroking and failure to return to battery. After totally stripping her down and going through it with a jewelers file, dentists picks, and Emory cloth I polished the old gals internals up enough to make it outshoot the 1100 I had at the time. Oil the gun generously when you reassemble. Don't be afraid to get a little oil on the surface where the friction rings ride as that surface needs protected too. Once you get it running there is no maintenance other than general cleaning and putting a few rounds through it occasionally.

 

[george.barnes.754]

OK so the spring is crimped and my difficulty in removal is normal then? OK, any other ideas

 

[natman]

Wow, I shoulda checked this thread again. I've shot it again since then and tried all 3 friction ring settings. Still won't even cycle 00 buckshot. I stripped it again and went all the way down to pins this time with a little help from YouTube. Discovered the buffer is full of oil and the wooden rear recoil spring guide is swelled up enough I had to actually make it so I had to unscrew the spring like it was a nut on a bolt. Could either of those be my problem?

It's been a long time since I took an 11 apart, but I do seem to recall some sort of wooden dowel / plug inside the rear recoil spring. If it was swollen to the point that it prevented the spring from compressing, then yes, it could keep the action from cycling properly.

 

[Jim K]

The action spring plug is only about 1 1/2" long, so I don't know how much it would do with having the spring fail to work. The spring might be kinked, since many owners got them kinked trying to put them back in. The trouble is that we are trying to diagnose problems without having a lot of information.

Jim

 

[rodinal220]

Action spring: http://www.gunsprings.com/Rifles & Shotguns/REMINGTON/11/cID2/mID108/dID199


Schematic: http://www.okiegunsmithshop.com/Remington_Model_11.jpg

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

I've shot it again since then and tried all 3 friction ring settings. Discovered the buffer is full of oil and the wooden rear recoil spring guide is swelled up enough I had to actually make it so I had to unscrew the spring like it was a nut on a bolt. Could either of those be my problem?

I know 11's like to be clean but want a minimum of oil. Sounds like yours has had too much in the past. How wet is it now?

Any updates on functioning?