Remington R1 - .45 ACP Mods

[Picher]

My new Remington 1911 R1 SS, after adding a long trigger and Pachmayr grips. After completely stripping, I had a hard time re-assembling. It's been quite a while since taking a new model 1911 apart and reassembling and I didn't find any reassembly directions on the 'Net. Those little extra safety parts kind of caused me a lot of headaches. The owners manual wasn't especially helpful.

The fatter grips and long trigger makes it fit my hand much better. Bottom line is that I really love the mods and can't wait to shoot it. (Serial number is blocked out on the photo.)

JP

 

[drband]

Looks like a nice setup @Picher
I hear good things about the R1!

 

[PO2Hammer]

The Pachmayrs look nice on a stainless gun.
I'm the same way, I need a bit more grip, I added the Hogue rubber finger groove grips, my hand locks in better.
With standard grips a 1911 can get a little squirrely in my hands.

 

[Picher]

The gun didn't continue operating well. The trigger/sear mechanization stopped engaging which happened before with the original trigger, so I'll remove the long trigger and new grips, then send it in for repairs. I guess the very nice hammer/sear arrangement on this one that I loved so much may not have had sufficient engagement to remain working properly after break-in. The long-reach trigger had nothing to do with the situation, since it occurred once before I installed it, but I'll have to remove it before sending or they'll blame it and won't return it and probably charge me for the repairs. I was a little nervous about the great trigger when I bought it, knowing that stainless isn't as strong as regular hardened steel, but it seemed to have adequate engagement, so decided to go with it.

 

[drband]

Let us know what they find. I suspect the sear spring is in need of tweaking. However, I am not familiar with series 80-type trigger group issues.

 

[Iwsbull]

Hey Picher go to YouTube and there are some great real-time videos of tear down and reassembling. I agree with drband in that the sear spring might need a bit of tweaking. I have the same model and will get around to changing the trigger out one day. It is a great shooter and I probably only have 1200 or so rounds thru mine right now but it has excellent except for one factory mag that will give me a bit of trouble about 20% of the time. I put buffalo bone handles on mine. They are a tad thicker than the factory grips.

 

[Picher]

The Pachmayr grips provide needed extra forward length to accommodate my longer fingers. The factory grips provide adequate slip-resistance, but I like Pachmayrs, since they place my second-joint/fingers in a better location to promote quick-pointing and comfort. I also have Pachmayrs on several other handguns, including my S&W snubbie, 2-S&W 19s, and a Ruger MKII.

 

[Picher]

The Pachmayr grips provide needed extra forward length to accommodate my longer fingers. The factory grips provide adequate slip-resistance, but I like Pachmayrs, since they place my second-joint/fingers in a better location to promote quick-pointing and comfort. I also have Pachmayrs on several other handguns, including my S&W snubbie, 2-S&W 19s, and a Ruger MKII. Guess it's an addiction!

.

 

[Picher]

Hey Picher go to YouTube and there are some great real-time videos of tear down and reassembling. I agree with drband in that the sear spring might need a bit of tweaking. I have the same model and will get around to changing the trigger out one day. It is a great shooter and I probably only have 1200 or so rounds thru mine right now but it has excellent except for one factory mag that will give me a bit of trouble about 20% of the time. I put buffalo bone handles on mine. They are a tad thicker than the factory grips. View attachment 897851

I can almost reassemble the piece with my eyes closed at this point, but thanks for the information about the videos. I had looked, but didn't find any. It's quite hard to see "inside" at the guts, but maybe the camera can see better. I don't intend to take the piece apart much when it comes back, except to re-install the long-reach trigger.

 

[Picher]

Let us know what they find. I suspect the sear spring is in need of tweaking. However, I am not familiar with series 80-type trigger group issues.

The sear spring is a flat one that, after the problem started, seems a bit short and it slides off the flat surface of the Sear, as it is designed to rest on, so the hammer doesn't remain cocked. It worked well for a while, so I'm wondering whether the tip was brittle and broke off. It's Remington's problem now and I'm hoping they'll arrive at a permanent fix.

 

[drband]

Yes... sounds like you do need a new sear spring.

 

[drband]

Does yours look like this? Note the little tab on the left leg of the spring.

 

[JTQ]

...I'm wondering whether the tip was brittle and broke off. It's Colt's problem now and I'm hoping they'll arrive at a permanent fix.

Or, perhaps, Remington's.

 

[Armybrat]

I like the R1, as they are a bargain for a well made plain Jane 1911. Bought mine new a couple of years ago for $399 after cash rebate during a promotion.

 

[Picher]

Or, perhaps, Remington's.

Yes. I noted and corrected my statement before reading this, but thanks anyway.

 

[Picher]

I like the R1, as they are a bargain for a well made plain Jane 1911. Bought mine new a couple of years ago for $399 after cash rebate during a promotion.

View attachment 898241

Your finding gives me confidence about mine getting a permanent "fix", from Remington. The sear spring and some key internal parts aren't stainless, so maybe my pistol will have a great, long-life after repairs.

I love stainless handguns and have (or had) several. Hard-chroming also works. A friend had his 4" blued Colt Python "Armorloyed" and though it polished a little shiny with use, internal parts were slicked-up very nicely. I don't know if the company is still in business, but hard-chroming is probably still available and it makes for a very tough handgun surface that is slicker/harder than stainless.

 

[bannockburn]

Picher

If you're looking for first rate quality with hard chrome plating check out Ron Mahovsky at Metalife.

 

[Picher]

Or, perhaps, Remington's.

Corrected my original post, but thanks.

 

[Picher]

Does yours look like this? Note the little tab on the left leg of the spring.
View attachment 898105

Yes, it looks just like that. The little tab is intact, but the middle leaf is the one that affects the sear and seems a bit too short on mine, since it slips off after a few dry-fires.

 

[drband]

Yes, it looks just like that. The little tab is intact, but the middle leaf is the one that affects the sear and seems a bit too short on mine, since it slips off after a few dry-fires.

Middle leaf can be adjusted for more pressure on the disconnector foot/trigger bow. Yours may just not be tuned properly. In any case, Remington should fix you up!



Corrected from sear foot/trigger bow to: disconnector foot/trigger bow

 

[Cemetery21]

Doesn't the middle leaf sit on the disconnector and the left leaf on the sear?

 

[drband]

Doesn't the middle leaf sit on the disconnector and the left leaf on the sear?

Yes! My mistake. On the disconnector and affects the trigger bow.

 

[Cemetery21]

Thanks. In my opinion, you are one of the respected authorities hereabouts.

 

[Picher]

Yes! My mistake. On the disconnector and affects the trigger bow.

Going by the drawing that came with the gun, the middle leaf presses on the sear. Hopefully, the factory repair center fixes the problem, if the workers aren't out with the flu.

 

[drband]

The middle leaf presses on the bottom of the disconnector and causes it to reset (pop up) after firing. Of course, the disconnector interacts with the sear during this process. It also controls pre-travel trigger weight and has some influence on total trigger weight.

I am sorry I misspoke in my earlier post.