Remington Ratchet

[gunboat57]

Several years ago I owned a few cap and ball revolvers and enjoyed shooting them a lot. I ended up having to sell them all to help pay for college but I'm thinking about getting one now. I can't decide whether to get a third model Dragoon or else an 1858 Remington. I'm leaning toward the Uberti Remington but I vaguely remember that the ratchet teeth on the back of the Remington cylinder were a lot shallower and weaker looking than the Colt. I was thinking that the Remington ratchet would wear out faster. Am I remembering right? How do the ratchet teeth compare? Anyone have any problems with their Uberti Remingtons?

 

[BigBlock]

I don't know how it compares to the other guns, but I really don't think there is any particular wearing out problem with the Remingtons. Most people agree it's the most reliable of original cap and balls.

 

[mykeal]

Remington vs Colt cylinder ratchets

The Remington cylinder ratchet design is indeed "shallower" than the Colt cylinder. However, I am aware of no incidents of anyone wearing the ratchets down, even in the original guns with perhaps less rigorous material processes.

Let's put it this way: I hope you live long enough and use the gun enough to wear out the ratchets. I think you will have had a very full and enjoyable life at that point.

And buy the Dragoon - it's more fun.

 

[Old Fuff]

In both cases I don't think you have much to worry about. What is more likely to suffer is the leading edge of the hand. A problem sometimes occurs when the hand is too long, and can rotate the cylinder past the upcoming notch in the cylinder. This doesn't happen when the cylinder bolt stops the cylinder from rotating, but in a properly fitted revolver the hammer will come up against the backstrap and be unable to go further at the same time the cylinder has rotated to the next chamber. Otherwise the hand and ratchet, as well as the cylinder bolt and cylinder notches, can batter each other.

The key here is the term, "properly fitted." Some revolvers are and some aren't. You can tell by disassembling the lockwork and reassembling only the hammer, hand, backstrap (in the case of a Colt) and cylinder. Looking through the little window in the bottom of the frame where the ball on the bolt would normally be, line up a cylinder notch in the window. Then pull the hammer back as far as it can go. The cylinder should rotate to, but not past, the next notch. If it does do so, the hand is too long.

 

[gunboat57]

Thanks for the advice guys. Mykeal, you reminded me. I think I was remembering that the Remington notches were shallower, not that I ever had any problems with them.

Once I pick one out I'll do the timing check to see if the hand is the right length. Am I right that the Uberti is probably the best brand?

And of course, I should just get a Remington AND a Dragoon to save me the trouble of having to choose! My wife is familiar with that kind of logic.

 

[mykeal]

Absolutely get both...

Sooner or later you are going to have both, plus more. It's inevitable, so just go with it.

As for Uberti being the best brand, well, that's obviously a matter of opinion. And it greatly depends on whether you buy new or used and whether the used gun came from a period where quality control was less than desired. They have all had their time in the barrel, so to speak.

It is my (considered) opinion that a Uberti is just a little bit more likely to be a little bit higher quality than Pietta or Euroarms. The difference is not large.

Having said that, I note with some irony that I actually own more Piettas than Ubertis, and my Euroarms Rogers and Spencers are just about my favorite guns (well, the Uberti Dragoons are actually No. 1 this week...). So, what do I know, anyway.

Just buy the darn guns and go out and have fun.

 

[flibuste]

Hello Gunboat


I had a Colt 51 and a Rem 30 years ago and indeed I managed to wreck the ratchet teeth on the back of the Remington cylinder ( not on the Colt).
At that time I would have said that the Rem is weaker.

Today I am aware of the importance of correct lubrification and the problem has disappeared but 30 years ago, I was using petroleum grease and after 20 shots the cylinder was getting seized by fouling and I had to turn the cylinder by hand while strongly pulling the trigger to move the cylinder in position (I was young and ignorant) : that is the way I destroyed the ratchet teeth on the Rem . The same action on the Colt did not succeeed in destroying the teeth.

Today with adapted lubrification all action is smooth and there is no need to be so hard on the gun.

Bye

 

[Old Fuff]

During the 1860's and 70's users noted that the Remington's would freeze up quicker then Colt's and the cylinder would need some hand assistance to keep rotating. But this was because the Remington's top strap would tend to keep powder fouling in, where open-top Colt's wouldn't. Modern lubricants do help, and sometime old timers had to shoot with no lubricant while in the field. Fortunately the fight might be over before 12 or so shots were fired.

They didn't do double-taps...

 

[gunboat57]

Flibuste, I had the same thing happen with mine years ago. 2 cylinderfulls and I'd have to wipe the cylinder pin and swab out the cylinder hole. So what is the right kind of lube to put on the cylinder pin? I think I used to use Crisco, same as on the bullets to prevent chain firing. That got pretty gummy.

By the way, I'm going to my local gun store tomorrow to allegedly buy a speedloader for my .38 Ruger. Several times I've noticed that guns in the display cases will start talking to me. If there happens to be a blue or stainless '58 Remington....

 

[Old Dragoon]

I do NOT use ANY petroleum based lubes in my guns. Olive oil for the internals and Bore Butter for the cylinder pins and the pawl area. I also use Bore butter over the balls, and over the chamber mouths when I shoot Cartridge conversions.