Removing choke by cutting the barrel

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Bud Tugly

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I have an old Stevens single shot shotgun with fixed full choke. I know the choke is all in the last 3-4" of the barrel, but does it taper gradually or is it very abrupt and all at once?

What I'd like to do is remove enough of the choke to make it about Mod/IC for upland hunting. I realize that if I cut 4' or so off the barrel it would remove all the choke and end up as Cyl, but what if I just cut 1-2" off?

I guess I could experiment by cutting 1/2" at a time and comparing the patterns, but if the choke is abrupt rather than tapering I'd just be wasting my time.
 
Most gunsmiths will ream it out to what you want for about $35 or so. The barrel also tends to be tapered on most guns, so just cutting, especially with a pipe cutter, will be difficult at best. It can always be opened up more if it still too tight, but it can't be put back unless you have it threaded for tubes. Cutting the barrel shorter also starts to mess with any swing dynamics the gun might have.

Have you patterned the gun with the load you intend to use to see what it ACTUALLY does? Just because a barrel has a certain marking on it, doesn't mean it is really that choke.

In short - have a 'smith measure the bore and let them ream it out a few thousandths if necessary.
 
Ream it out a little at a time, I don't recommend this for a novice, but....
Find a piece of straight dowel that fits down the bore with just a little room to spare.
Cut a slot down the centre of the dowel about 3 or 4 inches deep, insert the end of a piece of fine wet & dry paper.
Wrap the paper round the dowel and insert from the breach, once in place spin dowel slowly with a cordless drill.
I used oil as a lube and removed a little at a time until I had the choke I wanted.
This just has to be a better way then cutting the barrel back.

Neil. :)
 
I wish I had kept some of the fixed choke guns I've sold. Don't cut off the barrel. I agree with above posts.
 
choke

You can also thread barrel for screw in chokes. Runs 50.00 around here. Gives you more versatablity with weapon. If you have remchoke or winchokes go for same threads, if you try to go with breretta you might spend more money if you can find anyone with this type tap. Tru choke thin wall is also a popular type choke to use for this purpose. good luck and God bless
 
This is just an old beater probably worth less than $50, and I really don't want to put much money or time into it. Does anyone know if the choke is a gradual taper or just 1 abrupt jump?
 
On a lot of guns the choke is a taper starting in the last two inches or so of the barrel. Cutting in 1/2" increments may be too much. Honing or reaming would be a better way to go. What you suggest would probably work. But if you take too much there's no going back. Try a brake cylinder hone from an auto parts supplier. It will be slow, but easier to control.
 
If you're really not very mechanically inclined, and you don't get everything centered properly after making the measurements, you could wind up with the honing being off center, making your POI not the same as your POA. By the time you buy the hone, jig, etc., it might be simpler to find a good smith who has the right tools and experience to do it right
 
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