Removing Leading From Blued Revolvers

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Saw-Bones

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Most of my revolvers are stainless steel and using Miracle Cloth on the front face of the cylinder removes all the leading effortlessly.

I have three blued revolvers that I shoot regularly and I was told not to use the Miracle Cloth on them because it will remove the bluing. Is this true and if so, what is the easiest way to get the leading off the front face of the cylinder?

Thanks….. Doc
 
Yes, a lead away cloth will remove the bluing.

I have pretty good luck just applying Hoppes #9, letting it set for a while, and rubbing with a soaked cotton patch until it's off.

Far as I know, there is no magic way to get it off quickly without harming the bluing.

rc
 
fecmech - You reminded me that about 40 years ago I had some very light rust on a shotgun after a duck hunt and I used a light oil and 0000 stainless steel wool and it completely removed the rust and didn't harm the blue.

I am going to try that. Thanks for the wake up call!
 
Saw Bones, you might try a Lewis lead remover, I'm not even sure if they make them any more. What it is, is a small rubber cone with a piece of bronze screen wrapped around it. You actually pull the cone thru your forcing cone area of the revolver and believe me it works. I've got one for my .38/357, .45 ACP and my .45 Long Colts. You can actually see the little lead shavings come out. I've had mine for at least 30 years or more.
 
Might try some copper Chore Boy scrubbing pads. Copper, not the stainless ones.
This is what I use; that and a brass "toothbrush". Given how many rounds have been through my wheel guns, most of the bluing on the cylinder face is gone anyway.
 
Soak it down with Koil and some red ATF fluid and Hoppies # 9. Let stand for about 1/2 hour and scrub with a soft brass brush. Or get a sonic cleaner, remove the grips and run it for 1/2 hour with heat turned on. I use the sonic cleaner.
 
The Hoppe's or Kroil soak with the brass brush scrub works fairly well.

Another is to soak the front of the front of the cylinder with something like Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.
This not only removes carbon, it can also help with leading.

Fact is, there's no way to remove all traces of firing from a blued revolver cylinder face without also damaging the bluing.
I personally use the Hoppe's soak and brass "toothbrush" scrub and find it removes most of the leading.
There is nothing I'm aware of that can remove all signs of firing. The dark stains are IN the bluing and non-removable without damage.
 
rondog & ku4hx - The Chore Boy Copper pads were on my list for scrubbing my barrels, so I’ll give your method a try. Thanks!

joem1945 - I have all those ingredients and I’ll give all the chemical methods a try before doing any scrubbing.

dfariswheel - First mectech gives me a wake up call and now you. I have an airplane and I use a chemical solution called “Flight Bright Gear-Up” to remove the carbon exhaust from the paint. This might be the least harmful to the bluing since it won’t harm paint, but then again it might not be strong enough to work on the cylinder or the reaction to blued metal might be too strong. I’ll try this first thing tomorrow and report back.

What you said about the stains being in the bluing makes senses. If the bluing gets into the metal it’s only logical that hot gasses containing lead, copper and powder are getting into it too. Scrubbing with metal will eventually remove the blue, so have you or other posters used any of the bluing touch up pens, etc. to restore the bluing on the cylinder face?
 
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