removing lettering, engraving fill

[labnoti]

What is the preferred technique to remove lettering stamped onto the side of a gun by the factory prior to hand-engraving? I've read of a few methods that might work, but was skeptical they would be used on a gun that might receive more than $1000 worth of engraving afterward. What is the preferred method? Welding? Brazing maybe?

Also, once a gun is engraved with lettering, what are the best fills? I've read of gold filling. What about silver-color? It seems like silver metal would tarnish and turn dark. Platinum? Palladium? Rhodium?

I tried to do an internet-search, but I just keep getting results where kids are filling in the lettering on their Glocks with crayolas.

 

[Catpop]

Brownells used to sell real gold inlay kits. I used one on my old 721 300 HH in the 80s. It’s still there and in good shape.
Just info

 

[Varminterror]

Engraved lettering for gold inlay has to be engraved with this in mind. The engraved track is undercut, sometimes even slightly rolled up, then the gold wire is inlaid and hammered flat.

Most often, factory lettering is best ground away, not filled. This must be done on a solid flat, to avoid dishing. Welding and resurfacing can be done, but it complicates life in some parts for re-heat treatment. Really depends upon the part to be engraved. If the engraving is too deep, weld-fill may be the only option, but again, you may be stuck retempering.

 

[jmorris]

I would get bare components not stamped or machined if I were going to spend money on engraving.

If you weld it will cover it up as will brazing or even silver solder but any “finish” you apply will look different. If you can find out exactly what alloy the parts are made from you can get pretty close though.

You would need one of the coatings to cover that up and that seems silly on a gun with expensive engraving done to it.

 

[Jim Watson]

What gun?
An automatic's slide can be surface ground to remove roll marks.
But most engravers just work around trademarks.