Removing (polishing) Bead Blast finish

[El Hombre]

Hello,
I reciently purchased a stainless revolver that the previous owner had the barrel & cylinder bead blasted for a custom look. I prefer the original brushed stainless look of the frame. What is required to remove this bead blasting? Scotchbrite pads & elbow grease? Or will it require something more aggressive?
Thanks.

 

[Fumbler]

You'll need some wet/dry sandpaper. 400, 600, and 800 grit
It'd be best to take the gun apart to avoid getting metal dust in the action.

Scotchbrite alone will work, but it'll be reallllly slow.

 

[frogomatic]

it is going to take time. Start with some 320 wet/dry, then go up to 400, then 600. Also, while sanding liberaly apply a mix of kerosene and motor oil (about 90/10 kerosene/oil). You paper will last much longer, and the finish comes out better.

 

[rcmodel]

Be sure and back up the paper with a file or other hard, flat tool of some kind to avoid rounding out the screw holes, etc. on the frame.

Try your best to keep flats flat, and rounds round!


rcmodel

 

[El Hombre]

Thanks for the replies.
This is a Dan Wesson, so removal of the barrel shroud won't be a problem. The cylinder can be removed pretty easily also, so there shouldn't be any damage to surrounding areas.
It's a little unnerving to think about taking sandpaper to a gun. I have used scotchbrite before to remove minor scratches, and that works great. I just know I'm actually going to removing more material to remove the bead blast. That's a little scary!

 

[Robert Hairless]

The thought of it can be unnerving but that's the way to do it. Do it well and you should wind up with a better-than-original finish.

Some tips.

Move the metal against the abrasive, not the abrasive against the metal. You get better control that way. The pros recommend a sheet of thick glass (the kind used on some counters). I use a slab of marble threshhold from Lowes or Home Depot: no pits in it and polished on one side. Get the wet-or-dry paper in sheets and tuck one long side under the slab to hold the paper in place. As the paper becomes worn just tuck a little more under the slab so you work on the fresh part.

Work in one direction only. Don't use a back-and-forth motion and don't let the part angle differently with each stroke.

Use just enough pressure to move the part against the abrasive. Don't force it down.

It's important to get the work polished even if you want a "satin" or "brushed" finish. The higher the polish the better the satin or brushed finish will look. You can use Scotchbrite to get a brushed finish after the parts are polished or you can drop down a grade of wet-or-dry paper. Use the same technique as you did in the earlier stages. The straightness of your push is especially important to getting a good brush finish.

When you've done it all correctly the lines of will be crisp and the flat surfaces will be flat. Be careful not to remove the serial number and other markings you want preserved.

It's a good idea to practice on some scrap metal before working on the real parts.

One thing to consider before you start. Sometimes a gun is bead blasted to conceal surface defects such as small pits. Examine the gun carefully so as to avoid disappointment.