Removing the cylinder

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So I had to get my Remington out and try it some more. Mine just doesn't seem to work well like that. It's a real struggle. It works, but it gets hung up way more often than not.
 
You'll get it. :)

The slight rotation of the cylinder, taking it out and putting it back, is what pushes the hand in and out of the way.

Just practice and you'll have it down in no time.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=3kqEgijuCu4#t=25 Just thought I would post this. To me, any shooting video is a good video ! Clint Eastwood would kill this guy before he could even reach for his gun :p
You notice the last cylinder he wiggles the hammer a little trying to get the last one in.

Could be because of the fouling from the first 2 but he still has a little struggle. Also its capped

The first 2 cylinders he tips the gun away from the camera so you cant really see what he is doing but i wonder if he isnt doing the same thing he did with the last one.

Hammer is down till he goes to insert the cylinder and he rocks the hammer back and forth till it slips in and the pin fits.

If the way i do it isnt safe i just wont load a cylinder with caps on it and i wont mess with a conversion cylinder.
 
BowerR64 said:
If the way i do it isnt safe i just wont load a cylinder with caps on it and i wont mess with a conversion cylinder.

Several of us have told you the safe and correct way to do it. So, practice it till you have it "down pat". If not, then you'll just have to put your gun up and won't be able to use it.

(That's what I would of been told, anyway.) :)
 
Is this a mountain out of a mole hill thing? There's a correct way and then there's the "way I do it" way. So, do it how you want to.

45 Dragoon
 
What I find works best is, with the hammer down, and holding the revolver in my right hand so that the right side is down, slightly lower the loading lever and withdraw the pin. With my left hand beneath the cylinder ready to catch it, I pull the hammer back slightly and the cylinder drops right out.

To replace the cylinder I start it in from the right side and "hook" a locking notch on to the raised bolt. While gently pressing the cylinder in, I again slightly draw the hammer back. When the cylinder has the top nipple aligned with the hammer I let the hammer down on the nipple. This puts everything in alignment and the cylinder pin slips right in.

Obviously I don't install a loaded cylinder this way.

Until I figured out this method, reinstalling the cylinder always involved a lot of wiggling and fiddling with the cylinder to get the thing aligned so that the pin could be inserted.
 
That explains to a T what I found made it quite easy. On half cock the cylinder gets caught up on the hand more often than not. It just doesn't slide in there as easily as I've seen in various videos.

My Pietta needed all sorts of filing just to operate better. Maybe something else needs to be done with the hand as well?

I'm not saying it doesn't work, but that it takes a couple of wrestling moves.

And I do this completely unloaded.
 
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I was going to get the ROA and conversion cylinder from Phil but i guess with my bad habbit of installing the cylinder maybe i should just pass on it.

I didnt really know i was doing anything wrong till he snapped at me then i started to wonder how everyone else did it.

All this time i thought i was doing it correct.

Phil might of saved me a hole in the foot.:what:
 
It's certainly easier to take when snapped at for a good reason than to have some speak condescendingly to you.

Never a good idea, IMO, to do this with a loaded cylinder in any case.
 
Howdy

Good grief, this is so simple. I bought my first Remmie in 1975 and I don't think it came with any instructions, I simply figured it out. Barbie got it exactly right. You put the hammer on half cock, lower the loading lever, pull the pin, and roll the cylinder out. At half cock the bolt should be withdrawn into the frame. If it isn't there's something wrong with the gun. At half cock the hand will still be protruding into the cylinder window, it never withdraws into the frame because it is spring loaded. Rolling the cylinder out is the trick. Rolling the cylinder pushes the hand out of the way so the cylinder can be removed. Same with putting it back in, roll it in to depress the hand. You have to figure out which direction to roll the cylinder, it should be obvious. No wiggling of anything is necessary.

I usually shoot my Remmies with conversion cylinders and cartridges these days. I wouldn't dream of putting a cylinder loaded with cartridges into the gun in any other condition than half cock.
 
Mine rolls right out very easily. It's getting it back in. I rotate the cylinder the way it's meant to revolve and it more often than not gets hung up. The edges are sharp on everything and my cylinder bears the scars. I've had to take the edge off of some of the sides. Maybe this is what gives mine problems.

What I have noticed is that with the hammer resting a slight pull (~3/8") will pull the stop down and move the hand enough that nothing is in the way.
 
Good Lord, I never would've guessed there'd be this much discussion on this. The hammer should be at half cock for this operation, period.


Thats why I'm REAL picky who I let handel any of my S.A.s. So many people dont know proper S.A etiquette !!
You ain't kiddin'!!!
 
I'm very happy for the majority of you who have no problems with yours. That's great. I wish mine was as simple to work with, but it's just not. Maybe I need to do some more filing on the hand.
 
Why I'd just take my Dremmel tool and open that sucker up so nothing is in the way and you don't have to rotate it! Might wiggle around a bit when its in there, but shooting it will take care of that! JOKE PEOPLE!
 
I will admit im glad i started this post because this is the first ive ever read about the correct way to insert the cylinder.

Rolling it in the direction the hand pushes it does seem to help on most of them i do have a few though that the spring on the hand seems a bit more stiff.

I'm new here and just a "dumb blonde" but isn't this just common sense and something you should know before you even shoot? :)

I got familiar with the revolver before I even shot it. You just put the hammer on half cock, release the loading lever, pull the cylinder pin and then the cylinder rotates out to the right. Reverse the order to put the cylinder back in.

Is this not the correct way to do it? :confused:

I guess some are born with it and some arnt.

Your just better then me, good for you.

I missed the common sense
 
OK, I have a Remmie in hand now.

Removing the cylinder:

Half Cock

Lower loading Lever

Pull Pin Forward

Rotate Cylinder Clockwise as seen from the rear (normal rotation direction) and lift the cylinder out to the right side of the frame.

Putting cylinder back in:

Hammer still at half cock. Yes, the hand still protrudes into the cylinder window a little bit, it is supposed to. Don't worry about it.

Put cylinder in position bringing it in from the right side of the frame. It is actually laying on the extended hand. Give it a little bit of a shove in with the thumb while also rotating slightly in the normal direction of rotation. Be brave, you're not going to hurt anything. You will feel the hand 'give' as one of the ratchet teeth shoves the hand back into the frame.

Line up the cylinder and push in the cylinder pin.

Raise and latch the loading lever.

You don't need to file anything, you will probably do more harm than good filing things. Yes, the hand will scratch the rear of the cylinder. So what? That is normal. It's a shooter, not a priceless museum piece, right?

Practice doing this, eventually you will be able to do it blindfolded.
 
BowerR64 said:
I guess some are born with it and some arnt.

Your just better then me, good for you.

I missed the common sense


Mr. BowerR64

There is no need for your sarcasm. :mad:

I never said I was better than you. The common sense, I was referring to, was that I was guessing you knew how your gun operates and how all those parts work with each other. Don't you?

You would know that at half cock, the bolt is down and that the hand has spring tension on it and can be pushed in rather easy. (I don't know the Spec's, but what maybe 1 or 2 pounds.:confused:) I mean, "come on", you are even using a heavy steel cylinder to push the hand in with. :rolleyes:

Honestly, I'm sorry I even got involved in this topic. :(
 
Mr. Driftwood Johnson

Thank you, for your post on the procedure.

I guess coming from a girl, nobody believed me.

I think maybe you are "born with it", also.

Barbie
 
Barbie: You were quite condescending with what you had to say.

And you did come off as better than that as those of us with problems don't learn as well as your children you teach. Right? Or are you as slow as those who aren't as quick as the little children you teach?

I'm not sure of any other way to take what you said.
 
Yep, you and Bower are correct. I'm sorry.

Hope both of you get your gun problems worked out.
 
Well I have come up with a swapping procedure that is a combination of both thoughts here and it works for me (a righty).
1. Hold the pistol in your right hand with the frame/barrel horizontal to the ground, left side of the frame facing up, right side down.
2. Unlatch the loading lever with your left hand, keeping the lever out of the way
3. Pull out the cylinder pin/arbor with your left hand
4. Put your left hand under the right side of the frame
5. Pull the hammer back slowly to half cock and the cylinder falls into your left hand before you get to half cock.. Put the empty cylinder aside and pick up the charged (if you prefer) but uncapped cylinder with your left hand and insert it into the right side of the frame from underneath.
6. Give the cylinder a twist clockwise and the hand retracts behind the rear of the cylinder and the cylinder clicks into place.
7. Resecure the pin and lever. Cap and you're ready to go. :)
 
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Rotate Cylinder Clockwise as seen from the rear (normal rotation direction) and lift the cylinder out to the right side of the frame.

Putting cylinder back in:

Give it a little bit of a shove in with the thumb while also rotating slightly in the normal direction of rotation.

I think the trick is to roll it or rotate it when you remove it or insert it when its half cocked. This is working alot better.

This is kinda of like the magic trick where the magician has the quick slight of hand you dont fully see what he is doing and it seems so effortless.

Where did those of you who knew how to do it read it? or were you taught this technique? I dont see anything about this in the "instructions" and i have 5 i bought new in the box with all the paperwork with them i just went threw all the papers and i dont see anything about this in them.

It does make sence but this is the part i think your born with or not. Its a mechanical thing that you have to figure out if your not told how and why it works.

It does seem like a dumb simple thing to do but there is a little trick to it i feel.

Thanks for everyones help!
 
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