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Replacement Barrel - where to find one

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by Jenrick, Nov 1, 2019.

  1. Jenrick

    Jenrick Member

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    So I recently acquired this:

    2019-10-31.jpg

    It's a Jukar from Spain, in fairly rough shape. The lock was so dirty it wouldn't hold full cock, and the barrel is either double/triple charged (or possibly has about 5/6 balls in it). Stripped it, and it will be fine after some cleaning and minor adjusting of the lock. However I'm not sure the barrel is worth messing with. The clean out screw on the drum is frozen, and the drum is frozen. The nipple came out okay, which was honestly a surprise.

    The bore is has a significant amount of rust, and I imagine there will be pitting if I clean it out. At this point I'm thinking I'll just get a replacement barrel. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to go for a full barrel (breech plug, drum, etc)?

    Thanks!
     
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  2. skeeterfogger

    skeeterfogger Member

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  3. noelf2

    noelf2 Member

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    CVA Colonial Pistol, from a kit... Numrich has a used barrel that appears to be in be in ok condition (link below), but you'd have to clean it up and blue/brown it. I actually have the same gun, unfired condition, that sits in my safe. My father put it together many many years ago, and didn't do a great job. I would send it to you, but ... sentiment... you know... I plan to work on it soon also. Need a trigger guard.

    https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1722210
     
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  4. wmgeorge
    • Contributing Member

    wmgeorge Contributing Member

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    Find someone with a metal lathe and a chuck large enough to hold the barrel and run some drill bits down it. I had one listed on here for sale that is brand new and no one is interested. It was built and not a kit. My guess is the drilling out would work on yours.
     
  5. Jackrabbit1957

    Jackrabbit1957 Member

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    If the barrel is pitted no big deal, the crown is the important thing. Have you tried compressed air through the breech yet to push out those bullets? May not work but worth a try.
     
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  6. wmgeorge
    • Contributing Member

    wmgeorge Contributing Member

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    I have to agree about the pits. I had a BP revolver a few years ago with a large pit in one area, it shot just fine.
     
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  7. expat_alaska

    expat_alaska Member

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  8. Jenrick

    Jenrick Member

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    Ah thanks for all the links, I'm going to see if I can get in on a couple of those auctions if for nothing else having some spare parts on hand. If I don't have any success pulling the ball (I had to order a smaller puller than I had on hand, should be here tomorrow), I'll probably just drill it. Faster and easier than having to thread a fitting to match the nipple hole for air chuck or grease gun.
     
  9. wmgeorge
    • Contributing Member

    wmgeorge Contributing Member

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    I think the thread pitch is a pretty common one. You might take a grease fitting and see.
     
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  10. Loyalist Dave

    Loyalist Dave Member

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    Drop both the lock and the barrel into a container of Evaporust. Let them sit for a couple of days with that much rust, then clean them. The solution of Evaporust will get places normal cleaning won't reach. Just be sure you have removed all petroleum based cleaning agents and lubricants from the metal before you submerge the parts.

    The nice thing about those barrels is that you have plenty of metal if you want the old barrel reamed out to a tad larger caliber. Make a nice little smoothbore barrel for small game.

    LD
     
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  11. wmgeorge
    • Contributing Member

    wmgeorge Contributing Member

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    Can't believe how cheap this stuff is? $7.44 for 32 Oz shipped to you from Amazon.
     
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  12. Jenrick

    Jenrick Member

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    Alright ball pulled. It appears as though the previous owner dry balled it, attempted to shoot it out, and attempted to shoot it out a second time. However the second time they filled the barrel from the charge hole forward with black powder, about 3" worth. Needless to say that would have been a bit more than a double charge! I'm not sure if common sense prevailed, or what, but they decided to leave it rather than fire it again. It took a bit to get all the old powder out, and it's now sitting in evaporust to see how it looks rust free.

    I may still get one of those other parts guns, just to have another barrel (or heck even another pistol!)
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2019
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  13. gemihur

    gemihur Member

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    Your diligence will bring reward
    Thanks for sharing your endeavor
    You inspire the salvage spirit in us all!
     
  14. Steel Horse Rider

    Steel Horse Rider Member

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    You may be into restoration, and if so hurray for you, but if you want a pistol similar too what you have I would suggest a Kentucky pistol kit from Pedersoli.
     
  15. Jenrick

    Jenrick Member

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    Well took it out today. It cleaned up reasonably well (the barrel is currently in the white), but the bore is ROUGH. As in a I could feel the patches catching when I seated the ball. I didn't shoot for accuracy, but it was certainly paper plate accurate at 7 yds. A fun project for the moment.
     
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  16. Steel Horse Rider

    Steel Horse Rider Member

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    Maybe an appropriately sized dowel rod with a 1" saw kerf on the end with some emery cloth wrapped around it, then run it up and down the barrel chucked in an operating drill would smooth out your rough areas without drastically changing the bore.
     
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  17. Jackrabbit1957

    Jackrabbit1957 Member

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    My suggestion would be to wrap some steel wool around a smaller caliber bronze brush and work it up and down to smooth out the rifling. As long as the crown is not damaged the bore can be pitted and still be reasonably accurate.
     
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  18. Jenrick

    Jenrick Member

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    The crown appears to be in reasonable shape, so I am contemplating something similar to this or Steel Horse Riders suggestion. I am also considering making a slightly undersized lead lap, and seeing if I can knock down the worst of the pitting. The latter is probably more effort than it's worth.

    As a long term option, I could have the barrel relined in .58 which would match my main long rifle. This would save me on having to get another mold (I don't have a .440), but I imagine it would cost more than I paid for the pistol (less than $50).

    For the moment I have the stock to strip and restain, and the lock to smooth out, so the barrel can be rough a while longer.
     
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  19. Ratshooter

    Ratshooter Member

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    You don't knock down pitting. Its already knocked down into the metal. Try a smaller jag with some Scotch Brite wrapped around it and try to remove the rust. Then maybe some one or two ought steel wool. But nothing on a spinning shaft. That will ruin whatever rifling is left. If nothing else you could make a slotted steel dowel with emory cloth around it and remove all the rifling and turn it into a smooth bore. Lots of old guns were smooth bores.

    And those are not expensive guns. They can be found cheap in gunstores and pawn shops. At least they used to be found there. A couple of pawn shops around me will not buy BP guns anymore because they said they almost can't give them away.
     
  20. Jenrick

    Jenrick Member

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    Some of the larger patches of rust, have actually bridged from one land to the other, leaving a high spot in the groove that is rust. That's what I was referring to lapping out.

    The slot on the clean out screw was completely waller'ed out. I welded it up proud and then cut a new slot, got the old screw out. The combination of heat from the welding and actually being able to put torque on the screw got it right out. I replaced that with a stainless steel screw.

    I disassembled the lock, and in general it's not a bad lock. There were a few rough patches that took a file, but the majority took just a cratex bit on the dremel for polishing. The old sear has seen some wear, and is a bit chipped at the tip of the half cock notch. The notch itself is plenty deep, but the it produces a bit of stutter when cocking the pistol. I debated welding the tip of the notch up, but I had already put everything up from working on the clean out screw. I just dressed it up a bit to cut down on the stutter, and I'll leave that project for another day.

    The barrel is still in the white, and the sights are tenuously holding in their dovetails. Tightening the dovetail, and getting the sights aligned is probably next. A good friend of mine does cerakote, and I think that's how I'll do the barrel. This will probably be hard service woods gun for finishing off wounded animals, plinking, etc. Not anything that requires gilt edge accuracy (than again if it has it after I get the sights aligned, who knows?
     
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  21. Ratshooter

    Ratshooter Member

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    OK that makes it more clear. I bought one of these same guns unfired that was a kit gun that was never finished. In the end it made a nice little pistol that I still have. I paid a whole $25 OTD for it. You see these on GB and Auction Arms pretty regular. I bet you can find a donor for parts if you needed to. Too bad Deer Creek is pretty much out of business. IIRC they bought all the old CVA parts and would have had everything you needed to get this gun up and running except for a barrel. But like someone else suggested I bet if you had to you could find a used one on Ebay.
     
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  22. Loyalist Dave

    Loyalist Dave Member

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    IF you had it reamed..., again, you'd have a smooth bore pistol, great for small game, and if you had it reamed to .55 then that's 28 gauge, and if you had it reamed to .58 then that's a 24 gauge barrel, and would also take the same round ball as your rifle. :thumbup:

    Imagine you're out with your rifle and you're loaded for deer or elk, and it gets around mid day and along comes a bunny. The .58 rifle will work with a head shot, but you want to keep that loaded for big game today...ah but you remember you have your pistol handy, loaded with 55 grains of 3Fg, a 1/4" wad and 3/4 of an ounce of #5 shot. Bang, and the bunny is yours, and you're rifle is still loaded for rest of your day's big game hunt. ;)

    LD
     
  23. PeashooterJoe

    PeashooterJoe Member

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    I have lapped several with the steel wool and metal polish..turned out pretty good..Peashooterjoe
     
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