I’ve added a Ranger Point rear traditional peep sight to my 336 to allow easier sight adjustment for the 3 or 4 different loads I shoot. All have slightly different points of impact. I tried shooting with the factory bead, but using a bead with a peep sight is just odd to me. Would anyone recommend replacing the front sight with a blade type sight?
Replacing Marlin 336 Front Sight
- Thread starter DMW1116
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Dr T
Member
I wouldn't. Frankly, with an aperture sight, I literally don't see the rear sight. I just look through it and put the bead where I want the bullet. But, to each his own...
earlthegoat2
Member
I personally recommend the change to a patridge type front sight. I like the flat top surface of the sight on my target. It seems less vague than the bead provide.
The ones sold by Skinner are the perfect width for me. They have them in different materials and colors as well as a white line style. XS makes some too with the white line. They are a little wider though but still work OK.
The ones sold by Skinner are the perfect width for me. They have them in different materials and colors as well as a white line style. XS makes some too with the white line. They are a little wider though but still work OK.
I have used both the XS and Skinner front sights. I think I prefer the Skinner. I like a nice, black, serrated ramp, and Skinner has them in enough different heights and widths to satisfy me.
Charlie98
Member
I think the Skinner comes in extra tall, so you can file it down to the correct zero for your particular rifle and load. I've considered doing that with my Savage 99... the Williams rear is already at 10 tics to zero at 100yds.
Personally, however, I just use the front bead... I think it works very well and is, IMHO, a bit more precise than a square post. I have the Williams peeps on pretty much every rifle that can take one.
Personally, however, I just use the front bead... I think it works very well and is, IMHO, a bit more precise than a square post. I have the Williams peeps on pretty much every rifle that can take one.
Riomouse911
Member
I have Williams and Lyman peeps on a 1894 Trapper .44 (L), a Marlin 1895 CB (W) and a Guide Gun in .45/70 (L), and I use the stock front sights with all three.
So far they shout well enough that I haven’t ever thought about changing the front sights, is there much of a sight picture difference between the Marlin bead and a Patridge blade front sight?
Stay safe.
So far they shout well enough that I haven’t ever thought about changing the front sights, is there much of a sight picture difference between the Marlin bead and a Patridge blade front sight?
Stay safe.
greyling22
Member
I put fiber optic front sights in mine back when I could still see.
I don’t know how much more accurate I might be able to shoot them. Patridge style sights are generally considered more accurate. That would also keep all my peep sights the same in appearance. I have Tech Sights on a Marlin 22, carry handle and post sights on a 20” AR, and MBUS flip ups on a 16” that’s primarily used with a scope. The rear sight is just wrench adjustable and allows easy changes for my different loads: 160 gr FTX, 110 gr fmj, Winchester 170 gr PP, and Federal 150 gr RN.
I prefer a flat topped front sight for both Peep and Iron sighted rifles. Skinner makes a good one, easily filed to suit whatever rear sight is installed, and is well made.
I've found that the factory beads found on most all rifles, are not as precise as a flat topped post as they're affected by bright side and overhead lighting. (Groups tend to move away from the bright light due to glare.)
Having been military trained on the old M1 and M16 in my youth, I came to appreciate the precision of that flat topped front sight, freshly blackened with a match or carbide lamp, precisely dividing the peep's aperture. The old saw, "Light up = Sight up", is the trick for lighting conditions...especially with a bead. In use, you crank in a click or two towards the light to compensate for the glare.
For deer and elk hunting in wooded country, I've always used typewriter correction fluid to dab my front sight post. It shows white, contrasts well against deer/elk hair, and reflects no light. When the season's over, you can flick it off with a finger nail to get that plain black post back for target work.
YMMv, Rod
I've found that the factory beads found on most all rifles, are not as precise as a flat topped post as they're affected by bright side and overhead lighting. (Groups tend to move away from the bright light due to glare.)
Having been military trained on the old M1 and M16 in my youth, I came to appreciate the precision of that flat topped front sight, freshly blackened with a match or carbide lamp, precisely dividing the peep's aperture. The old saw, "Light up = Sight up", is the trick for lighting conditions...especially with a bead. In use, you crank in a click or two towards the light to compensate for the glare.
For deer and elk hunting in wooded country, I've always used typewriter correction fluid to dab my front sight post. It shows white, contrasts well against deer/elk hair, and reflects no light. When the season's over, you can flick it off with a finger nail to get that plain black post back for target work.
YMMv, Rod
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