Williams peep sight

[Ironclad]

I noticed midway has the WGRS-336 peep sight on sale for the Marlin 336. I've been wanting an aperture sight for my rifle. Does anyone have one of these and know if they are decent?

Do they have adjustment screws or do you still have to tap the sight back and forth in the dovetail to adjust it?

Also, is the front sight on a newer 336 tall enough, or would I be better off with the kit that has the front "fire sight"?

Finally, can the knurled part of the sight that actually has the aperture in it screw out of the body of the sight and give the user more of a ghost ring type sight picture?

 

[MMCSRET]

The Williams products are good. I have several rifles, both bolt action and lever action Marlin and Winchester. The adjustments are made with the screw on both series of Williams rear aperture sights.

 

[Abel]

This is the WGRS-336:



It just slides in the dovetail grooves. For the front sight, it varies from rifle to rifle. If you end up buying a new front sight, the firesight is almost too bright & can obscure the sight picture. Go with a Marbles or Skinner front.

 

[GCBurner]

I've got a couple of Williams sights. Good quality, and holds it's adjustments under recoil. You can remove the screw-in aperture to replace it with a different size, or just leave it out for a "ghost ring" type a look.
This 336 sight mounts to the scope mounting holes on top of the receiver, so it precludes mounting a top mount scope. I've read that if you mount this to the front set of mounting holes, you don't need to change the front sight, but if it mounts to the rear holes, a slightly higher front sight is required.
There is also a Williams side mount receiver sight, which also fits the Winchester 94, that allows the use of both iron sights and a scope with a see-through mount.

 

[Ironclad]

It just slides in the dovetail grooves.

So is it just held by friction or does it have set screws to lock it in place?

 

[GCBurner]

So is it just held by friction or does it have set screws to lock it in place?

The WGRS-336 model uses screws to fasten in the scope mounting holes drilled and tapped into the top of the 336 receiver. You can remove the buckhorn sight from the barrel altogether, to get it out of the way. There is a 3/8" filler block you can put in the barrel dovetail for cosmetics.

This is the model I got: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=583902#productTabReviews
It started out on my Marlin 336, but when I installed a low-mount scope on the Marlin, I moved it to my Win94.

 

[Ironclad]

Sorry I wasn't clear. I meant does it have screws to lock in windage and elevation once you get the dovetails where you want them, or are the dove tails just tight enough to hold adjustment?

Also I'm pretty much set on a sight that screws into existing holes. I hate to drill holes in my gun if I don't have to.

 

[Abel]

I meant does it have screws to lock in windage and elevation once you get the dovetails where you want them, or are the dove tails just tight enough to hold adjustment?

It has set screws.

 

[Ironclad]

Ok thanks. It looked like it did from the picture but I couldn't tell for sure.

 

[451 Detonics]

I use a Williams on my 450 Alaskan...it has never moved...I suggest the Williams Twilight aperture highly as it is great for low light as well as normal daylight. The brass ring makes it very fast to pick up. I am also using a fiber optic front.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=812365

 

[SSN Vet]

If your receiver is tapped on the side, cough up the extra cake and get a

Fool Proof. They are worth it.

 

[wrs840]

This 336 sight mounts to the scope mounting holes on top of the receiver, so it precludes mounting a top mount scope. I've read that if you mount this to the front set of mounting holes, you don't need to change the front sight, but if it mounts to the rear holes, a slightly higher front sight is required.

Mounted to the rear holes, definitely takes a taller front sight, at least on 70s model 336s. I've never tried one mounted to the front holes. Anyone with experience on this know if a Williams peep in the front holes actually works with a factory front-sight? (I haven't heard this before and haven't tried it...)

Thanks,
Les

 

[52grain]

If your receiver is tapped on the side, cough up the extra cake and get a

Fool Proof. They are worth it.

I have a Savage Mark II that came from the factory with the fool proof sights (with target knobs). I really like them. If you go that route, you will probably want to get the globe front sight with it.

 

[dodge]

I have a friend at has one mounted on his 1895 guide gun in 45/70 and he uses the front mounting holes. No problem with using the factory front sight. I have a set on my 1895 guide gun but mounted at the rear holes and again no problem with using the factory front sight. We both shot the same handload consisting of 44 grs IMR 4198, Hornady 350 FN, CCI 200 primer and with him Hornady brass but with me Remington or Starline brass.

 

[Beacon]

I have the Foolproof on an 1895 Cowboy and it works great. Before it went to the Cowboy, I had it on a 1894 .44 Mag. Worked great on it, too.

 

[Asherdan]

I think the WGRS is sturdier than the 5D/FP styles. I've had a few times where a knock on the 5D's bar 'floating' above the receiver changed POI, where the WGRS is more of a solid block that might take a rap from brush stomping better.

+1 on 451 Detonics mentioning the Twilight aperture. It's my favourite all-arounder as well.

My Marlins are 2002 & 2003 manufacture and I've not had a problem with Williams sights working with the standard front sight.

 

[Beacon]

I agree with your analysis that the WGRS is sturdier than the 5D. Since it sits on top of the receiver, it doesn't leave the 5D's bar suspended over the top of the action to get bumped.